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FrozenGate by Avery

GGW sled red diode

millirad

millirad

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Is the red diode on the GGW sled worth using? What current would you drive it up to? It isn't an LOC, but what is it? It's been covered many times but I didn't find it with my search.
 





You can drive them to about 400 ma and get near 300 mw Best of Luck friend! -Glenn
 
Thanks Glenn, I will try to put it to work. It could pay for the whole sled. ;-)
 
It is a fantastic deal! The red LD is not an LOC(Long Open Can), it is an LCC(Long Closed Can). The LOC is a current monster but, is more fragile than the LCC, so I'm currently prefering the LCC diodes.
 
My 8x LCC is nice but I havent pushed it yet. It IR diode also puts out a dimmer red beam which I ran up to 200 mW for a couple minutes. It burns too when focused.

Mike
 
i also played around with the IR diode from this sled, running it at almost 300Ma with a hella heatsink. it burns pretty good, and also has the faintly visible red glow to it... wich kicks ass cuz you can actualy SEE if its working ok. no beam though... just the dot.

i also prefer LCC's over LOC's. LOC's are a lil more powerful i do believe... but i break them like i smoke stoges...wich is ALLOT. either a pin pulls out, or one of the tiny ass filiment wires catches the spring when you replace the lense... even a simple mirrir will kill LOC's INSTANTLY. the laser goes back through the lens and concentrates on the point of origin "the chip of the laser" and fries those tiny wires... and i can vouch that backflash "shining a laser into a mirror and back into itself" WILL kill a LOC faster than a closed can diode, as the tiny wires are exposed to more oxygen and they light right up. if you did a quick backflash on a closed can, it would take more than a split second to fry...unlike the LOC's wich fry IMMEDIATELY. i actually had a bunch of 75Mw reds lying around and tested this theory...just because i can. a closed can at 75Mw takes over 3 seconds to fry out. an open can set at the same output took a fraction of a second. was almost immediate.
 
Thanks for the research on the open cans! I knew they were fragile, but I thought it was more for mechanical shock, like being dropped. As you have shown though its their sensitivity to thermal radiation on the transition region of the diode.
 
LCC's are very nice diodes. Quite tough as well. I consider them to be equal to LOC's. They seem to achieve similair powers at lower currents.

I have a couple on me, will test and make graphs when I find some extra free time.
 
yes, please do brtaman! im VERY curious to see these graphs as i have a few more LCC's on the way... should have em friday. will do some tests also if needed.

Dark
 
you think if i heatsink this baby with a solid copper heatsink... i could push 500Ma... maybe 550Ma? and note it will only be on for 60 seconds or less.

does that sound about right or could i push it even higher..with an even shorter duty cycle...

tell me whatch'ya think guys. seeing as i have a few of these... i will put one in the test host W/copper heatsink(solid) (driver is also heatsinked) not afraid if one bites it. lol
 
Darkarmyofone said:
i also played around with the IR diode from this sled, running it at almost 300Ma with a hella heatsink. it burns pretty good, and also has the faintly visible red glow to it... wich kicks ass cuz you can actualy SEE if its working ok. no beam though... just the dot.

i also prefer LCC's over LOC's. LOC's are a lil more powerful i do believe... but i break them like i smoke stoges...wich is ALLOT. either a pin pulls out, or one of the tiny ass filiment wires catches the spring when you replace the lense... even a simple mirrir will kill LOC's INSTANTLY. the laser goes back through the lens and concentrates on the point of origin "the chip of the laser" and fries those tiny wires... and i can vouch that backflash "shining a laser into a mirror and back into itself" WILL kill a LOC faster than a closed can diode, as the tiny wires are exposed to more oxygen and they light right up. if you did a quick backflash on a closed can, it would take more than a split second to fry...unlike the LOC's wich fry IMMEDIATELY. i actually had a bunch of 75Mw reds lying around and tested this theory...just because i can. a closed can at 75Mw takes over 3 seconds to fry out. an open can set at the same output took a fraction of a second. was almost immediate.
Click to expand...

You make a good point here about back-reflections. This is the main reason I prefer LCC over LOC. The window in the LCC diode is what helps protect it a little, as opposed to the windowless LOC. A back reflection is lethal to LOC diodes instantly every time.
 
agreed, im surprised i dont hear about this more... ive lost allot of diodes to backflash. but i also work allot with projectors, and spyrographs, wich both use mirrors...and well it just happens.

i also prefer LCC's due to the protective casing and window. the filiments are not exposed in any way...unlike LOC's.

also note, LCC's CAN recover from a backflash... if it happens and u see ure laser go dim TURN IT OFF IMMEDIATELY and LEAVE it off for 2-3 days. then try it once more at 25-50Ma less current than before. the laser will be degraded... but if it was only a split second exposure it CAN come back to life, just slighly weaker depending on the exposure time.
 
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