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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: New Pen Host Kits! Switch board with Spring Option - Nice!

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Hey Jay
How big is the inner diameter of this host? Or in other words: would a rkcstr V3 Micro Drive or a Groove V2 driver fit in the pen?
When using one 10440 then the space in length wouldn't be a problem.
 
It would fit an full length AixiZ module, which a rkcstr would fit inside...

The battery area has a plastic sleeve for the batteries. Here's the measurements:
Pen%20host1.jpg
 
I know it's not exactly a good idea, but I really want to do a high-powered 445 build with one of these, just so I can say I did. It would work alright if I could get a single lithium cell the length of two AAAs, but they do not exist (sadly).
 
I'm sure 2 X AAA e2 lithium batteries will run a V5 FlexDrive for a 445 build...

Not sure how high you could push it with that supply, but I would guess a minimum of 600mA's and it would be a class 4 pen...

I would just about bet my right hand that this set up will handle 600mA's using a FlexDrive...

Because I have tested my Phaser at 650mA's. (2 X AA) And it also has to supply the sound board and the LED 'armed' indicator light...
 
Yeah, but for how long would two e^2 batteries last? Not long, methinks. If I knew some way to get custom Lithium batteries for cheap-ish via a GB, I think there could be reasonable demand for 2xAAA sized single lithium cells, thanks to these pen hosts. It would enable the usage of FlexDrives with very little boost/buck necessary, while still delivering long battery life. And for most of us, developing our own charging system for such an awkwardly shaped battery wouldn't be too hard either.
 
EDIT: I just saw you were talking about AAA Batteries... Post revised!

E2 AAA lithiums are 1250mAh rated batteries... so 2X E2 Lithiums would supply 3V @ 1250mAh.
E2 Lithiums are rated for 1.5A contimuous discharge. http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/l92.pdf

Driving a 445nm diode @ 850mA with 85% efficiency should net a 1500mA current draw at a 3V source.
For lithiums that would be ~1.2C (about 50mins of battery life). E2 Lithiums are about $2 each.
850mA would be about 800-900mW... if that's not enough out of a pen build, you've got issues.

You could always use good NiMH cells like Eneloops. I know RC hobbyists push those way past 2C discharge.
They have 850mAh capacity and would run ~1.8C to deliver 850mA to a 445nm diode.
They should work but you'll only get about 30mins out of them. Then again, they're rechargable.
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/nh12-850.pdf
 
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Lazybeam-you have to take into account voltage sag, at 850mA you won't get more than a few minutes of battery life.

Also, what is this unit C? You say it would be 1.2C... what does that mean?
 
C is the C-rate. Colloquially, 1C (amperes) would be the mAh rating of a cell.
1C = the current draw which depletes a battery in 1 hour.
It's a pretty common measure of current rating for batteries.

You are right - I did not take voltage sag into account, good catch. At a 1C current draw, output for an E2 Lithium AAA will drop to ~1.2V and hold for 45mins. So figure on a higher current draw due to sag and you might be looking @ 1/2hr of solid power from E2 Lithiums.
 
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Accessories

As for the power supply, I suggest two 10440's and a maxed out groove driver just because it would be a simple rechargeable setup.
Or you could rig up a parallel 10440 solution rather easily and use a boost driver. The groove will make more heat than a boost driver.

A 10440 is usually 500mAh, I'm pretty sure they can do at least 1000mA of current, that would only be 2C which is not unheard of.
 
Pontiacg5 said:
I hate to be a spammer, but look at what I've got for sale here. Heatsinks and focus adapters!
Accessories

As for the power supply, I suggest two 10440's and a maxed out groove driver just because it would be a simple rechargeable setup.
Or you could rig up a parallel 10440 solution rather easily and use a boost driver. The groove will make more heat than a boost driver.

A 10440 is usually 500mAh, I'm pretty sure they can do at least 1000mA of current, that would only be 2C which is not unheard of.
Click to expand...

I usually see AAA (Lithium) cells at 600mAh. But if I could get a 2xAAA single cell battery, though, that would be a minimum of 1200mAh (assuming it's made with any sort of decency), which would get me more than an hour at 850mA on the diode, using a FlexDrive (or the boost-only driver), which is reported about 93-97% efficient (I can't exactly remember). (More than an hour is a guess based on 4.1Vf on the diode at 850mA, which seems reasonable based on a graph I looked at a while ago and barely remember...)
 
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The problem is AAA batteries can't push enough current to run a blue pen at any more than ~300mW, I've tried a few times. They just don't have the guts...

If you are savy enough you could run two 10440's in parallel in the pen and that would get you about the same capacity as the AAA's but with a much higher current draw.
 
Jay,

Been a long time since I have ventured over to these parts of the internet. But with such a crazy 445nm frenzy going on, I just couldn't resist coming back for more! Luckily for me, there is even more options to play around with and the 445's are quite cheap.

With that said, I think I am going to attempt a 445nm pen build with this (HighTechDealZ - 445nm Aixiz Rkcstr Blue 440mA Laser Module). I have one of your pens from a while back that I never finished a build with. But now that you have a option to pre-load a spring and board for $3 extra, I am going to make another attempt (with a Chrome host this time).

I realize driving a Rkcstr and a 445nm diode with only two 10440's isn't the ideal way to go about it, but from what I understand it should still work fairly well. I should still get a pretty decent run time before the power starts dropping, right?

Well, my basic plan of action is to make the Aixiz module case positive by running the positive exposed wire from the Rkcstr driver right up against the outside module case and against the pens internal wall (basically put it between the two pieces, and then 'jam' everything into the pen). Hopefully this will give a good contact between the pens internal wall and the positive wire from the Rkcstr. Before this step of course, I will solder the negative wire from the Rkcstr up to the board/switch. Then after it is all done, stuff it into the pen while trying my best to line up the button properly.

It might be pretty crude, but do you think that would work? I am assuming case positive will be Ok for a 445nm diode. Oh and on the blank board, where does the negative wire from the driver connect to?



P.S. In case this all ends up being too complex for me, would you happen to have any more side button hosts left? I checked the thread and it mentioned DX was out of stock of that host, but I wasn't clear if you personally had any lying around or not. Because I know from experience the side button host was by far the easiest build to do with a standard Rkcstr in a Aixiz module. Everything fits perfectly and is really easy to wire. The 405nm build I did with the Aixiz and side button host still works great to this day.


Anyway, thanks for any help!
 
leukoplast said:
Well, my basic plan of action is to make the Aixiz module case positive by running the positive exposed wire from the Rkcstr driver right up against the outside module case and against the pens internal wall (basically put it between the two pieces, and then 'jam' everything into the pen). Hopefully this will give a good contact between the pens internal wall and the positive wire from the Rkcstr. Before this step of course, I will solder the negative wire from the Rkcstr up to the board/switch. Then after it is all done, stuff it into the pen while trying my best to line up the button properly.
Click to expand...


That will work, and somthing jammed in there is usually necessary to hold the aixiz module tight enough, but if you want a "real" method you can solder the positive input lead from the Rkcstr to the ground pin of the diode since it is a floating case diode. Its not necessary though. Th(if your afraid to approach the diode with an iron)

As far as the 'solder point' on the switchboard: I usually just solder a wire directly to the switch, its the terminal on the left of the switch if you are looking at it with the spring towards you. There are probably other places on the board that are good too, you could just poke around with a multimeter if you want to find another place.

Hope this helps!
 
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