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FrozenGate by Avery

From concept to reality - Phobos host (taking orders)

Eudaimonium said:
Nah man, thank you for your business! Let me know if you need any help with 'em.

Don't worry Baron, yours will be waiting for when you're ready to buy :)
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Has anyone else had this problem? I got several of these click switches from DX in, and they seem to work when tested outside of the Phobos, but once I press one in the tail cap, my 12x turns on and won't turn off by clicking it, only if I unscrew the tail cap. I've tried several switches with the exact results. Broke a couple even from all the pressing in and out testing them. The micro boost and 12x tested fine outside of the host. Just can't get the damn switch to act like a switch in the host. Weirdest damn thing I've ever encountered in building. OK I realize this is a new design and custom host, but down to the basics - its a tube of aluminum which houses a switch, circuit and diode, lens, not that complicated - lol but its got me baffled at the moment. Just wondering if I'm the only one here with this issue :-)
 
Both end caps I have, both with different clickies, work. No idea what it could be clif.

Euds, maybe for future ones you build, the battery tube could be bored out just ever so slightly bigger... I have a batch of ultrafire 18350s that get stuck in there...

I'm just waiting on drivers so I can finish the 445 build and take a few pics of both builds
 
Clif, perhaps you have those switches which have those two metal "flaps" on the side as two seperate terminals, instead of being continuos? I dunno what could it be. [EDIT] Oh maybe the battery is hitting the tailcap somehow, bypassing the switch completely?

Cilegray, I'll see what can I do, limitation is the thread that's cut into the barrel, all my 18350 fit in nicely, where did you get yours from? Mine are those standard orange ones from DX, no protection board.
 
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Eudaimonium said:
Clif, perhaps you have those switches which have those two metal "flaps" on the side as two seperate terminals, instead of being continuos? I dunno what could it be. [EDIT] Oh maybe the battery is hitting the tailcap somehow, bypassing the switch completely?

Cilegray, I'll see what can I do, limitation is the thread that's cut into the barrel, all my 18350 fit in nicely, where did you get yours from? Mine are those standard orange ones from DX, no protection board.
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They're the standard long spring DX switches that you provided with the hosts, my first one broke and had to wait until my others arrived to build.
I'm not sure about the battery contacting the tailcap b/c it starts to turn on the laser way before it's all the way screwed in. I'll recheck the switch tabs with my DMM to see about the tabs. Can't imagine why they be made that way, those tabs are designed to be in something just like you made for them :D
It's a very odd problem. It doesn't "seem" that the switch is being squeezed in too tight by the tail cap (damaging the switch) but something takes place once the switch gets pressed in place and it bypasses the switch altogether. I'll work on it more in a few days when I'll be off work again.
 
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Hmm... perhaps your spring bends and shorts the battery to the casing then?

That's my last idea so far... those springs are quite jumpy, it's quite possible it may be shorting. If it is, try cutting off a few wounds off it and see if it works.

If not, then I dunno, call the priest? :D
 
I have made a lot of hosts with this particular DX switch. Unfortunately, a lot of these switches are defective or marginal. Some are DOA, I check them with a meter before and after putting them into a tailcap. I have had a couple fail at 1.25A supplying a 445nm setup. Others work fine. Bottomline, if you use this switch, order more of them than you need, you will use the extras ...
 
billg519 said:
I have made a lot of hosts with this particular DX switch. Unfortunately, a lot of these switches are defective or marginal. Some are DOA, I check them with a meter before and after putting them into a tailcap. I have had a couple fail at 1.25A supplying a 445nm setup. Others work fine. Bottomline, if you use this switch, order more of them than you need, you will use the extras ...
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haha yeah no kidding I bought 15 of them, I have 12 left to try that didn't crap out [yet] ;)

Eudaimonium said:
Hmm... perhaps your spring bends and shorts the battery to the casing then?

That's my last idea so far... those springs are quite jumpy, it's quite possible it may be shorting. If it is, try cutting off a few wounds off it and see if it works.

If not, then I dunno, call the priest? :D
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I'll try cutting the next spring back a little, and get me that number for that priest when you've got a minute, I hope he can perform both exorcisms and shoo away gremlins. :na:
 
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Hey Bill, do you have any reccomendation on better quality switches? I'd really like to stock up on good ones!

Clif, well if the priest won't help, a shotgun surely will. Give it a shot, y'know? :na:
 
These switches are just cheap enough that I will order more than I need and root out the bad ones. The few times that I have provided a friend with a laser, I give them also a small ziplock bag with two extra switches in it. Even if I bought a switch like this from a different online supplier, it is likely that the switches themselves come from the same factory somewhere in China, so I might not be any further ahead. Sorry I don't have anything better to offer here. If I find some, I'll let you know.
 
Yeah good point, about the factory probably being the same.

If we don't find any better switches, I guess I'll do the same, about providing extra switches.
 
It just seems to be a nice touch to give the customer an extra switch or two in case of a problem. A killer host and freak diode aren't much fun when a stupid cheap switch dies and you don't have an extra. Maybe DX will get a better batch of these? One of these days I think that I'll try a logic level mosfet as the switch, that way a tiny PC board mount switch could control the mosfet gate, along with a pulldown resistor.
 
Sounds good for very high current applications but I don't think we're talking more than maybe 1A in these hosts. Also I don't think I have enough room in the tailcap for something like that. Unless all the components are SMD ones.

But, something to consider for the bigger version ;)
 
That was just an idea for the future. It would certainly be a possibility in a larger host, or for a multi-watt IR burner. You are right about smd, the fets are tiny and probably would fit into many tailcaps. It is still easier to order mored DX switches than required and sort out the duds. Oh well.
 
The polish host is looking good. The differences is very clear !
 
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