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FrozenGate by Avery

FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!






I finally got the saik build working with 2x 859mw paralleled and a M-140. I tell ya that build was a nightmare.. Between trying to get batteries that fit and then the wireing problems it was a tough one.. The end product is prety sweet though and it's output is about 2W average with a G2. Well worth the time and hassles... But we learned...
 
Nice build :beer:

Did you make the drivers yourself?
Kizdawg said:
I finally got the saik build working with 2x 859mw paralleled and a M-140. I tell ya that build was a nightmare.. Between trying to get batteries that fit and then the wireing problems it was a tough one.. The end product is prety sweet though and it's output is about 2W average with a G2. Well worth the time and hassles... But we learned...
Click to expand...
 
Nope the ones I used on the saik were made by Moh. I still havent got parts to make boards yet and havent recieved the parts I orderd to PID controle my oven yet.
 
I had the D1 components on both my drivers fry/die/explode on me earlier today D:
 
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I knew some component needed to be put in with the correct polarity.. some are self explanitory but diodes or caps ??? Help me out here.. I'm probably going to have the same problems.... you have to put them in the correct way. you cant just slap on the components.. I need a bigger magnifying glass for this.. I cant even read what it says on some of the components..
 
He didnt make the boards. Im wondering if the person who did put the component in backwards or not.

He told me that they shorted on eachother through the heatsink because he didn't put a thick enough layer of thermal adhesive... Not sure that was the problem though.
 
Kizdawg said:
I knew some component needed to be put in with the correct polarity.. some are self explanitory but diodes or caps ??? Help me out here.. I'm probably going to have the same problems.... you have to put them in the correct way. you cant just slap on the components.. I need a bigger magnifying glass for this.. I cant even read what it says on some of the components..
Click to expand...

the caps are ceramic so they can be connected both ways. Doesn't matter. the diodes should be connected the right way though.

the schottky's anode should be connected after the inductor and cathode before the anode of the laser diode.

the ovp zener diode's anode should be facing the FB pin, and cathode facing the cathode of the shottky:

like this
 

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I wouldnt worry about that if it is DIY it is DIY! If someone decides to sell these then they make there own guarantees.. What kind of thermal adhesive was used? I know Moh tested all the boards he sold.. I checked all the ones I baught and his assesment was dead on on all 5 complete boards from 2 different orders 3 wks apart. + I had faith in his work when I baught 5 or so linear drivers from him and they all tested out good and accurate too. The person who sold them would have his garantee on it if there was one. I know if I was selling these I would garantee them as tested and working and replace if need be. That's why the extra protection is so vital! I baught the boards with OVP.

Besides that the point is DIY. That's what I am striving for.. I ordered parts and boards I will be tryng to make these in the near future.. Yes it is an investment but unless you have the cash to setup shop and sell everything you would be better off buying a microdrive or a buck/boost or whatever will work for your particular situation.. Dont buy a experimental boost because it is cheaper unless you are willing to risk it all.
 
Thanks Toma! I baught 2 of them so I didnt have to build one... lol

Ok I will leave you with this Singlemode Vs Multimode...
That's top to bottom Mits300, 9mm 445, mits110 and pl450.. hehe

6859-singlemode-vs-multimode.jpg
 
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The versions I'm working with have very tall caps that can short easily. To make sure they don't short out, I usually put a very thin layer of AAA on the caps, let it cure. Then mix a batch and stick it on there. Works for my benboosts, worked for KD drivers, and worked for PT54 case-positive LEDs.
 
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