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FrozenGate by Avery

FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!






lasersbee said:
It's on the LM3410 Data Sheet... Page 10...:beer:

Jerry
Click to expand...

There ya go - Jerry has pointed everyone straight to it. If someone wants to fork the design and add this, that could be a cool feature. It will make the PCB larger (unless you're a real wizard), so I'm not going to do that with the version in this thread.
 
Olivierg said:
Hi All,



I have removed the FET, because i can check the polarity before insert the battery. I stack the capacitor (22uF in 805 format and 16V, not exist !), the inductor is more height of 2 stack capacitor. The // the R1 et R2 is the for 2 LM, the LED current is the same, just needed lower value like 2 x 0R1.
Click to expand...

I would ALWAYS buy a driver with polarity protection over one that does not have it. Maybe you are going to keep that laser forever, but if not then you have a laser that is easily destroyed by a simple mistake.

For your personal use, that is fine.

But RHD sells a lot of his builds and I'd rather know he has a driver with protection in the laser vs one that I can destroy in a moment of lack of concentration.

:)
 
So I'm thinking about throwing a couple of these together. I've never used dorkbot though, is there a minimum order size? Do you just email him the file?
 
Ghostchrome said:
So I'm thinking about throwing a couple of these together. I've never used dorkbot though, is there a minimum order size? Do you just email him the file?
Click to expand...

You email him the gerbers. There's no minimum order size. That said, he's one of the nicest people I've interacted with in the hobby community, so I would encourage you to not order like 3 boards or something insignificant like that.

The board is 0.2 square inches. So technically, at a cost of $5 per 3 copies of a 1 sq inch board, the cost for 3 of these PCBs would be $0.90 cents. If you consider that he includes shipping for free, then I think it would be majorly crappy of someone to order $0.90 cents worth of boards. He'd be loosing money for sure (and I'm sure he'd still do it, cause he's pretty awesome). Dorkbot is an awesome resource, but we're definitely getting much smaller sized PCBs than I think his pricing model is designed for, so it's good to make up for it by upping the QTY.

But maybe grab like "6 sets of 3" which would be 18 boards, and would probably cost you $5 to $8 shipped.

Whenever I order from DorkBot, I'm always pretty careful to grab like 30 boards, even if I really just want 1 prototype board done, if it's something really tiny. Like those 8x8mm STCS1 drivers - even 60 of them only came to $10. It would have been pretty unkind of me to have him make me 3.
 
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Does he actually make the PCBs himself in house or are they
outsourced...:thinking:


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
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rhd said:
You email him the gerbers. There's no minimum order size. That said, he's one of the nicest people I've interacted with in the hobby community, so I would encourage you to not order like 3 boards or something insignificant like that.

The board is 0.2 square inches. So technically, at a cost of $5 per 3 copies of a 1 sq inch board, the cost for 3 of these PCBs would be $0.90 cents. If you consider that he includes shipping for free, then I think it would be majorly crappy of someone to order $0.90 cents worth of boards. He'd be loosing money for sure (and I'm sure he'd still do it, cause he's pretty awesome). Dorkbot is an awesome resource, but we're definitely getting much smaller sized PCBs than I think his pricing model is designed for, so it's good to make up for it by upping the QTY.

But maybe grab like "6 sets of 3" which would be 18 boards, and would probably cost you $5 to $8 shipped.

Whenever I order from DorkBot, I'm always pretty careful to grab like 30 boards, even if I really just want 1 prototype board done, if it's something really tiny. Like those 8x8mm STCS1 drivers - even 60 of them only came to $10. It would have been pretty unkind of me to have him make me 3.
Click to expand...

Wow, that is cheap.

Alright I won't bother him with a small order, I'd hate to ruin something like that. Anyone putting in an order?

Hey, if you guys wanted to control the design of this a bit, one way to do it without you having to assemble these yourselves might be to just sell boards after you get them from dorkbot. Mark them up a bit for RD costs, sell them to people who would be interested in assembling them and you wouldn't have to release the board design. Put a cap on the final cost as part of the deal.

Boosh.

:D
 
Ghostchrome said:
Hey, if you guys wanted to control the design of this a bit, one way to do it without you having to assemble these yourselves might be to just sell boards after you get them from dorkbot. Mark them up a bit for RD costs, sell them to people who would be interested in assembling them and you wouldn't have to release the board design. Put a cap on the final cost as part of the deal.
Click to expand...

That kind of circumvents the idea of Open Source....:whistle:


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
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About that OVP thing - I have it in my design, it's really simple, you just add a Zener diode in reverse (I'm using 12V breakdown and 300mW heat dissipation) and an appropriate resistor (I'm using 100 ohm). When the driver is run without load, the IC boosts the voltage all the way to 12V, where the zener breaks down (penetrates?) and it's 100R resistor comes into play, lowering the current.
 
lasersbee said:
Was just curious by the way you worded post #149...
It sounded like he made the boards himself...
Click to expand...

I didn't mean to give that impression. No, he gets them fabricated. I'm pretty sure he actually does a pretty darn large volume of boards.
 
Johnyz said:
About that OVP thing - I have it in my design, it's really simple, you just add a Zener diode in reverse (I'm using 12V breakdown and 300mW heat dissipation) and an appropriate resistor (I'm using 100 ohm). When the driver is run without load, the IC boosts the voltage all the way to 12V, where the zener breaks down (penetrates?) and it's 100R resistor comes into play, lowering the current.
Click to expand...

It's not that we don't know how to do it, we just don't really need/want it. I've never put power on a driver without a load connected, and I don't see any reason why I would. The ovp just adds unnecessary size, cost, and complexity to the board.

I put ovp in the design at one point, it just didn't make the final cut.
 
IDK.... if you are going to put input protection it only
seems logical to go the whole route and add output
protection...

It's there as a "just in case it happens" protection
just like the input protection... not because it happens
every time power is applied...

BTW... I've tested that reverse P-CH 1 part protection
and it works quite well...


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
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lasersbee said:
IDK.... if you are going to put input protection it only
seems logical to go the whole route and add output
protection...

It's there as a "just in case it happens" protection
just like the input protection... not because it happens
every time power is applied...

BTW... I've tested that reverse P-CH 1 part protection
and it works quite well...


Jerry
Click to expand...

There is the possibility to put the battery in backwards every time you change it (especially if you sell your build to someone), but once you solder it to the diode the only risk of over-voltage is if the diode dies. By the time the diode dies I'm not going to be worried about loosing a $5 driver.

I'll go ahead and see if I can fit it in anyways. That way everyone can choose if they want it or not.
 
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