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FrozenGate by Avery

Flexdrive problem

L

lJakel

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May 20, 2012
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I got my flexdrive the other day, I soldered the jumper for the 100-412ma range and when I test with a dummy load ( 4 1n4001 and a 1w1ohm ) it's only reading 60-120ma. It goes back to 60-70 after I reach the reset spot. Any ideas?

Build I'm inspired from : http://laserpointerforums.com/f50/b50-powerlight-660nm-build-69960.html

Macros : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ut6uae9p5ftedao/rZvdN8Mlty/Laser

Batteries : Amazon.com: 4 Pcs Brand New Ultrafire 16340 1000mAh 3.6V CR123A Rechargeable Batteries Plus Charger: Electronics
 





Are the batteries freshly charged?
Have you tested each of them to know that they are all good?
Are you using the batteries to power the driver during your test?
How are you hooking up your negative lead to the driver?

Peace,
dave
 
haha, sorry I didnt put the batteries in because at the time of the picture it was a pain to keep them still but I rigged them eventually. The batteries read 4.2 - 4.0 after a full charge. Im reading in MV on the 1w1o resistor. I have a pin that I put into the negative upon testing the current so i can disconnect the battery easier. I turn the pot and it goes up from 70... goes to about 90 then jumps to 100, then I can turn it until about 122 then it goes back to 60-70.
 
Last edited:
lJakel said:
haha, sorry I didnt put the batteries in because at the time of the picture it was a pain to keep them still but I rigged them eventually. The batteries read 4.2 - 4.0 after a full charge. Im reading in MV on the 1w1o resistor. I have a pin that I put into the negative upon testing the current so i can disconnect the battery easier. I turn the pot and it goes up from 70... goes to about 90 then jumps to 100, then I can turn it until about 122 then it goes back to 60-70.
Click to expand...

Solder your negative lead in place
You can always cut it off if your build doesn't need it
figure another way to cut the power

Also, redo your other solder joints
Several of them, (including the solder onto the middle resistor) look cold at best
Did you use flux?

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** -- If that solder joint to the middle resistor is cold or didn't flow, then the driver would be operating in the 60-100mA range
 
Last edited:
daguin said:
Solder your negative lead in place
You can always cut it off if your build doesn't need it
figure another way to cut the power

Also, redo your other solder joints
Several of them, (including the solder onto the middle resistor) look cold at best
Did you use flux?

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** -- If that solder joint to the middle resistor is cold or didn't flow, then the driver would be operating in the 60-100mA range
Click to expand...

Apparently I killed the driver.. I barely did anything. It doesnt ouput any power and the battery still has 4.1 input. This stuff drives me insane. I had everything ready to go lol
 
lJakel said:
Apparently I killed the driver.. I barely did anything. It doesnt ouput any power and the battery still has 4.1 input. This stuff drives me insane. I had everything ready to go lol
Click to expand...

Bummer!

Soldering sms components with an iron requires a small, sharp point, a quick touch, and a light hand

EVERY successful builder has blown their share of components

Peace,
dave
 
daguin said:
Bummer!

Soldering sms components with an iron requires a small, sharp point, a quick touch, and a light hand

EVERY successful builder has blown their share of components

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

I just wanted to set it to like 380ma, is there an alternative that allows me to use one battery? Or do I need another flexdrive and try again. I know I can order one from the original website with a preset current but it took a month to get it last time.
 
Yeah..that is a pisser!

Dave is correct. In fact, the first driver I killed, I got from Dave. It died due to large soldering head, and shaky hands...the poor IC didn't stand a chance...and the LEDed diode was additionally painful.

That little mistake cost me roughly 1.5 times the cost of my lovely new Weller soldering station and lots of tiny tips.
 
lJakel said:
I just wanted to set it to like 380ma, is there an alternative that allows me to use one battery? Or do I need another flexdrive and try again. I know I can order one from the original website with a preset current but it took a month to get it last time.
Click to expand...

Illumination Supply has them, and mine took less than a week to arrive. If you can find ANYBODY with a Benboost, those are really nice. You're witnessing a SERIOUS drought in the boost driver market. For this reason, I am using more linear and buck drivers...
 
flexdrive, microboost driver, X-Boost driver, Ben Boost driver

Peace,
dave
 
How do you recommend I solder the jumper so it flows correctly? Those things are so small.
 
Take a small piece of wire
Pre-tin it
Dip it in flux
Dab a small bit of flux on the ends of the resistors you want to join
Use a set of "extra hands" to hold the wire against (touching) the ends of the resistors
Get a small drop of solder on the tip of your iron
"Touch" the melted solder (not the tip of the iron) to the wire

It should all flow together in a fraction of a second

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** -- I've posted these before, but here they are for you

This method is also used when making wire-to-wire solders with small wire
Soldering diode pins takes a fraction of a second

Pre-tin BOTH the pins and the wire or solder pads

Use a small bit of flux on BOTH the pins and the wires/pads BOTH for the pre-tin and the final solder joint

I don't care if you use rosin core solder. USE THE FLUX!

Use a set of "extra hands" to align the pin with the wire/pad.

Make sure that they are side-by-side, touching, and secure

Get a small bit of solder on the tip of your soldering iron

"Touch" the melted solder on your iron to the pin to wire/pad joint

The solder will all flow together in a fraction of a second.

I recommend that you also use some shrink tubing to protect and reinforce the joint



You DO NOT "heat the joint" as with other solder jobs
You DO NOT place the solder source anywhere near the solder job

Only the melted solder on the tip of your iron should approach the pin to wire/pad joint


An exception to the above, is when soldering a wire/pin “through” a hole
If you are soldering a wire or pin through a hole, you only pre-tin the wire/pin
You DO still use a bit of flux in the hole
Use Extra Hands to hold the wire in the hole
You have to let the iron sit a bit longer to heat the hole and allow the solder to flow
It still should be less than a couple of seconds ;)

If you are new to soldering, I recommend that you get yourself an old PCB and some scrap wire (etc.). Practice the above procedure until you can get a good solder in a fraction of a second.
 
daguin said:
Take a small piece of wire
Pre-tin it
Dip it in flux
Dab a small bit of flux on the ends of the resistors you want to join
Use a set of "extra hands" to hold the wire against (touching) the ends of the resistors
Get a small drop of solder on the tip of your iron
"Touch" the melted solder (not the tip of the iron) to the wire

It should all flow together in a fraction of a second

Peace,
dave

**EDIT** -- I've posted these before, but here they are for you

This method is also used when making wire-to-wire solders with small wire
Soldering diode pins takes a fraction of a second

Pre-tin BOTH the pins and the wire or solder pads

Use a small bit of flux on BOTH the pins and the wires/pads BOTH for the pre-tin and the final solder joint

I don't care if you use rosin core solder. USE THE FLUX!

Use a set of "extra hands" to align the pin with the wire/pad.

Make sure that they are side-by-side, touching, and secure

Get a small bit of solder on the tip of your soldering iron

"Touch" the melted solder on your iron to the pin to wire/pad joint

The solder will all flow together in a fraction of a second.

I recommend that you also use some shrink tubing to protect and reinforce the joint



You DO NOT "heat the joint" as with other solder jobs
You DO NOT place the solder source anywhere near the solder job

Only the melted solder on the tip of your iron should approach the pin to wire/pad joint


An exception to the above, is when soldering a wire/pin “through” a hole
If you are soldering a wire or pin through a hole, you only pre-tin the wire/pin
You DO still use a bit of flux in the hole
Use Extra Hands to hold the wire in the hole
You have to let the iron sit a bit longer to heat the hole and allow the solder to flow
It still should be less than a couple of seconds ;)

If you are new to soldering, I recommend that you get yourself an old PCB and some scrap wire (etc.). Practice the above procedure until you can get a good solder in a fraction of a second.
Click to expand...

Awesome thank you so! A shipping I must wait!
 
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