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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

First Green Build

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Jun 26, 2015
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I finally finished my first green build. I tried to get a good picture of the GITD but my camera wont pick it up well.

diode: plp520-b1
driver: 445ma from survival lasers
host: C6 (I added GITD paint)
batteries: 2x 16340 3.7v 650mAh Nitecore
lens: acrylic

The host, driver and heat sink was a bundle from survival lasers.
 

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Geeker

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Good job.Just wonder how visible of the beam at daylight?
 
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Hi,
Great start Pal looking good build on my brother , came out sweet

Rich:)
 

GSS

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Very nice:) but im wondering why the acylic lens? you might be missing the full beauty of that diode plus it could be an issue down the line as far clouding and mabey melting
 
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Very nice:) but im wondering why the acylic lens? you might be missing the full beauty of that diode plus it could be an issue down the line as far clouding and mabey melting

After researching and viewing other posts with this diode, the acrylic lens seemed to have the best divergence. As far as I know, the acrylic lens is safe to use with this diode.
 
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After researching and viewing other posts with this diode, the acrylic lens seemed to have the best divergence. As far as I know, the acrylic lens is safe to use with this diode.

Looking at the output you could try a 3 element with AR coating for green, DTR has them for 8 dollars, just know that the standard e element is AR coated for blue so order one for green, however you could test one that's AR blue coated just to see the divergence.
 
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An acrylic lens should be just fine with that laser. I use an acrylic lens on my PL520 because I got terrible results with a 3 element (more splash than dot), but that only does 82mW. The PLP520-B1 is a different diode so the results won't be the same, this laser is doing 200mW or more, that's not going to damage the lens. It's possible you could melt the lens barrel, but you would really have to exceed the duty cycle and let it overheat. The problem with those acrylic lenses is they are shorter, only 8mm, so you can't screw the focus ring on tight enough to use it, you have to focus without the ring. I keep a focus ring on mine just so I can keep a lens cap on it always when not in use, but I can only screw it on about one turn, it's not usable for focusing.

Alan
 

Pman

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I add a small o-ring to some focus rings so the lens came be screwed in to be able to hit infinity focus. You can also try flipping the lens to see if that will work better too.
I don't think he is going to have an issue with the lens being acrylic at that power output. Have many 660nm builds at 400mW that haven't been an issue with an acrylic.
 
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In my pictures, there is a clear circle around the dot. How much will the circle change if I used an AR three elements lens instead of acrylic?
 
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In my pictures, there is a clear circle around the dot. How much will the circle change if I used an AR three elements lens instead of acrylic?

It will likely give you some bat wings type of splash like this (-) that's what I get with a 3 element, but it does have the advantage of making a smaller dot at a greater distance with the side effect of some power loss. Your photos look like its very unfocused, it shouldn't look like that when focused, only when unfocused.

Will the beam more visible than a 532nm laser?

At night or in the dark yes it will be a little more visible, in daytime or a room with the light on then the 532nm will be a little more visible than the 520nm.

Alan
 




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