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FrozenGate by Avery

First Custom Build (300mw 650nm)

Raw1988

Raw1988

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So this is my first build, I've got a 300mw 650nm diode module on the way from DTR :beer: I've got a host I'm hoping to get ready for it's arrival, I got it for $2.95 (radioshack) as a LED/ <5mw laser that was on sale and gutted it.
LzrHost_zpsaf8cca63.jpg


I want to run 2 10440's with a dummy wire in the third slot for power and keep the original button switch. Also while trying to fit a home made LM317 driver on round PCB that has a 1'' diameter. Probably after shaving it a few mm's though..

Any advice? Should I use 2 16340's and discard the 3xaaa holder?
 
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Any build created by hand will always be more rewarding than that purchased.

Can't help you with your dummy wire, but wish you good luck on your First!:beer:

Continue your reading through the forums and personal builds.
 
532 with Envy said:
Any build created by hand will always be more rewarding than that purchased.

Can't help you with your dummy wire, but wish you good luck on your First!:beer:

Continue your reading through the forums and personal builds.
Click to expand...

Thanks Envy, I definitely agree. Much nicer on the wallet too!

scumbagatheist said:
How do you plan on heatsinking your diode?
Click to expand...

I was hoping I'd be good with DTR's module as-is. If not I was either buying this from ebay or planning on taking these 2'' aluminum discs i came across in my garage and taking a drill press to them.
 
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Raw1988 said:
Thanks Envy, I definitely agree. Much nicer on the wallet too!



I was hoping I'd be good with DTR's module as-is. If not I was either buying this from ebay or planning on taking these 2'' aluminum discs i came across in my garage and taking a drill press to them.
Click to expand...
Your definately going to need a heatsink.
 
Billiam said:
Your definately going to need a heatsink.
Click to expand...

Do you this that heatsink would be alright for the module? Or would the LM317 need some kind of heat sink too? I've read they're downside is that they release excess energy as heat..
 
Wow, I'm working on a similar build. Got the same 650nm copper module from DTR. However, I'm using a mohgasm linear driver, and a small generic led flashlight. I got a couple of copper heatsinks from cajunlasers for the driver, and using a thick copper pipe fitting from home depot to heatsink the diode. I've got the electronics soldered, and after a ten second test, driver got warm, so it couldn't hurt to sink it. I almost got the same sink you linked to, but it is slightly too big.
Good luck!
 
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ChaosLord said:
Wow, I'm working on a similar build. Got the same 650nm copper module from DTR. However, I'm using a mohgasm linear driver, and a small generic led flashlight. I got a couple of copper heatsinks from cajunlasers for the driver, and using a thick copper pipe fitting from home depot to heatsink the diode. I've got the electronics soldered, and after a ten second test, driver got warm, so it couldn't hurt to sink it. I almost got the same sink you linked to, but it is slightly too big.
Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips, are you going with two or three li-on 10440's for power?:beer:
 
Raw1988 said:
Thanks for the tips, are you going with two or three li-on 10440's for power?:beer:
Click to expand...

Same as you. Plan to use two 10440s in the tree aaa sled, with third contact shorted. I found a similar thread were dtr suggested useing the sled with two 10440s. ;)
 
For future reference, Survival Lasers USA has an assortment of fine host kits with heatsinks available. With their hosts, you can choose either RCR123's for linear drivers or a single 18650 for boost drivers. I've got one in hand already for a 532nm build, and am ordering another for the very same 650nm w/ linear setup you guys are doing. My Mohgasm is tuned to ~478mA. This will likely shorten the life of the diode, but hey, pushing limits is what I'm all about.
 
If your diode is an LPC-826, you'll be fine with using just the module as heatsinking.

I have an 826 running at 515mA (so around 300mW as well) in a Survival Lasers S4. The heatsink is tiny tiny tiny and made of aluminum. I've had mine on for over 30 minutes (left it on during a game of LoL) and the whole thing was still at room temperature.
 
i have one @ 378ma, you can push it more, but if you want your red build to last foreverish its a perfect current
 
CAM01192_zps6d33341b.jpg
Argh.. Burnt diode and driver... Dont sodder drunk guys...
The custom host and design seems promising despite size issues with heatsink.
CAM01191_zps88a53024.jpg


I was able to compensate for the loose fit of the heatsink with a pair of key rings! One very lightly soddered to the grove in the host a few mm's down on the inside. And forcing the slightly larger one onto the heatsink so the band trying to constrict to it's original shape was enough to keep it tightly in place.


I'm just happy I didn't use too much artic silver before I confirmed that it would lase or not... That stuffs too damn expensive!
 
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Raw1988 said:
CAM01192_zps6d33341b.jpg
Argh.. Burnt diode and driver... Dont sodder drunk guys...
Click to expand...

FYI, with all due respect, i think its solder, not sodder. Anyways, build pics look good :)

bdgreenb said:
i have one @ 378ma, you can push it more, but if you want your red build to last foreverish its a perfect current
Click to expand...

I ended up going with 378 Ma cause i read that the recommended current is 350ma on DTR's site.
 
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