First build help

[Emialias]

hello its me again!

so ive been thinking about doing a build for some time and ive finally figured out what i want to do. thinking 700mw+ 638. but first some questions:

1) is it safe to run the oclaro 700mw 638 to 1w? ive seen it done but then again ive seen people run 16x 405s at 1w but i hear they die alot so i was wondering if the oclaro 700mw 638 was similar

2) if i do decide to run it close to or at a watt, what current should the driver be set at?

3) and what kind of duty cycle would i expect if using a survival laser c6 as a host?

 

[dden4012]

I have found that this diode doesn't heat up as quickly as the blue or green of this power level, keep the driver in mind. Beam shape ummm sucks tho. The SM 638 has a great beam and the spot can be seen hundreds of feet away in daylight.

If you buy the module its going to be set to 1.1a nano driver. Might be able to push it more with a flex drive but could kill it.

 

[paul1598419]

I'd use the ML501P73 by Mitsubishi. It seems to hold up better than the Oclaro and can easily be pushed to 1 watt. Both diodes have terrible divergence problems, so don't expect a tight beam. I'd drive it at 1.2 to 1.4 amps. It still needs to be heat sinked for decent run times.

 

[Lifetime17]

Hi,

I also vote for the Mitsu they are less vulnerable at those higher currents , and they last . But mind you its an open can diode. Yes you can reach over 1W easy with them. The C6 host is fine with a copper heat sink.

Rich

 

[Emialias]

ok so looking at this ML501P73 is there any major differences or disadvantages of it being and open can diode?

 

[paul1598419]

None that I have run up against. I have one in a copper host that's been going strong for several years. I suppose you need to keep it away from dust and dirt, but that goes for any handheld. The other specs are pretty much the same.

 

[Emialias]

ok is there anything else i should know before i go ahead and buy the parts? things i would need (beside saftey goggles i already got them), tools or anything else?

 

[paul1598419]

It really depends on how much of the work you are doing for yourself. If you are buying from DTR, then a solder iron and some heat shrink wrap. If you are setting up the driver and pressing the diode into the module...... then, yeah. A lot more.

 

[Emialias]

nah im buying it in a module from dtr i dont trust myself pressing my own diodes yet
it is my first build after all.

 

[paul1598419]

Well, if he is setting the driver for you too, then all you need is to be able to solder some wires together and heat shrink an insulator around the connections. The rest is just putting the module into the heat sink and if the power is high enough, sink the driver to someplace on the heat sink. Done.

 

[Lifetime17]

Hi,M.

yes you will need a soldering iron,Flux.heatsrink, Arctic Alumina compound to put around the 12mm module. A pair of nail clippers to trim the end of the wire to length and a pair of wire strippers for 24AWG wire. And some alcohol and Q Tips and a clean rag no lint to clean the surface of the sink and 12mm edge. but put a acrylic lens in before you clean the surface so nothing comes in contact with the emitters on the open can diodes. Sorry for the rambling but this is a protocol to building a full laser the correct way. If i forgot any thing feel free to chime in guys..

Rich

 

[paul1598419]

Meh, maybe some heat sink compound to put between the module and the heat sink, but I wasn't going into absolutely everything he might need to do this. :crackup:

 

[Lifetime17]

hi,
Paul,
just thought it might be helpful to realize all the basic items he might need to get started.

Rich

 

[paul1598419]

Not a problem. I guess you always find things you need and don't have on your first build. I know there have been times when I was in the middle of building a laser and had to stop and wait for something else.

 

[Richie89]

I have mine set to 1amp and I'm getting about 530mw with 3E and about 750mw with G2 and I leave mine on all the time around 2 minutes and it gets just a tad warm. Even though 530mw is no where near a watt but honestly the G2 lens is so horrible on it I just leave the 3E on there.

https://youtu.be/EW-zucubktc
This is the link to my video for the Oclaro700 3 element VS G2

 

[Emialias]

thank you guys lots for input. payments complete for everything i need! expect a thread on it in a week or so