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FAP1200-M-80W-800.0

AquaticHarpy

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I recent purchased two of these modules and could find no information about them. The ends of the fibers were also snipped off which I found strange. Is there anything I should know about FAP units? Fiber lasers with snipped ends? 80W output lasers? I assume it will be a 2 volt laser, probably around 60 amps. Whatcha guys think
 

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Alaskan

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The snipped them off so they would not be used again, for what ever reason, more likely due to a failure, or perhaps high time.
 

AquaticHarpy

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It's eBay so if they don't work I suppose I could get the return. What would you say about a 50w FAP800? They have no cable and instead a little chain thing.
 

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Alaskan

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It could also be someone salvaged them out of some surplus gear without knowing they shouldn't cut the fiber. You can reterminate them, or use them as is with a cleaved end but you might not want to use them at full rated output, unless polished, even then, they will no longer have a anti-reflective coating which to me, means don't run them at full output, I don't want to suggest how much percent is OK to run them at in this case, but for myself I would not worry at 75%, if properly cleaved. I guess I just suggested, didn't I. Other members will probably have their angle to add.

I have a lot of those 50 watt FAP's, it's a lottery whether you get a good one, one with some dark fibers, or bad. On ebay, if they represented it as used but fully functional, even if in the listing they say no returns, you can probably return it anyway.
 

AquaticHarpy

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Well let's hope both of these modules work at their rated 80W. I've got some fun plans if they do, if they're both dead I'll get a return. Do you think 5a could get anything out of one? That's as high as my variable supply hits, I'll keep you all posted
 

Alaskan

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You need a constant current power supply which can adjust from 1.5 to 2.5 volts DC, perhaps higher depending upon the voltage loss in your leads (for a single FAP, twice that voltage if you run them both in series). I've powered 40 watt FAP's jusing a 2.1 to 2.2 VDC lead acid battery without destruction from over current but I also had mine on a hefty heat sink and only ran it 20 minutes, with the output rolling down the entire time to half, due to the battery draining. It was only a 25 amp hour battery.

I don't recommend doing that, if you want the FAP to last, there could be damage just from applying the wires to the terminals due to the surge of current and resulting inductive back spike of voltage (a low forward voltage diode in reverse across the terminals can quench most of that), which is possible. Although I used my battery that way several times and abused the FAP terribly, it has not failed yet, but failures like that can show up hours of use later.

Alternatively, you might be able to find a proper high current driver for them, look around, but that is a lot of current for those, $$$ price new.
 
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AquaticHarpy

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Today I fired both FAP 80W units and got light at a little less than 2 amps from the broken cable.
 

Alaskan

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Great, can you use a lens and an IR camera to check if all of the fibers will light? That one fiber is really several fused together.
 

AquaticHarpy

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I need to get 60 amps through this to be finally cooking with fire. Any ideas to get that? What kinda circuit do I gotta build
 

Alaskan

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You can buy this 75 amp power supply, or buy a constant current power supply on ebay:


Or preferably, in my opinion, something like this which has terminals and nice knobs to adjust the constant current with:


Here's an email exchange I had with plus6i9, the first ebay link, above, but the voltage only goes to 3 volts, you won't be able to run two diodes in series from one power supply at that low of a voltage:

Yes. You can use analog signal 0~10v for out 0~75A.​

Your previous message​
Can the output current adjust down from 75 amps? If so, how far down?​

Hi !
Output current is 75A, volt range about 3v. Input volt 90~ 240v.
Thank you.​

Your previous message​
Can I get the output current and voltage range these will drive a laser diode at and what the input voltage range is?​
 

Cyparagon

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The DCR line is triac-based switchmode. That is to say, 120Hz switching frequency. This makes it a very efficient (for the 1980s anyway) way to generate comparatively huge power output, but the regulation and noise characteristics are rather poor for sensitive diodes. The SRL line is a better option as it has a linear stage after the preregulator. There are several lab-grade name-brand used PSU options that will deliver high current for $200 or less. I just sold one a few weeks ago that did 125A for like $150.
 

kecked

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The faps in my Verdi have a screw on fiber. Are you sure yours isn’t replaceable? These are only 20w faps. 808nm well on a good day. More like 806nm Till I heat them up. Expensive buggers.
 

AquaticHarpy

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I got 2 80w FAPS for 120 bucks. They use a sma905 system. I want to try to get a replacement cable or maybe just a collimating lense. What do you all recommend for not breaking the bank
 

Alaskan

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Depends on how well a switching power supply is designed to filter the output, don't go by what someone tells you on these forums without looking at the specs yourself, it is easy to give arm chair advice, not so easy to pay for new diodes. For myself, I use quality switching lab power supplies, but not the cheap ones and no failure yet, but I prefer the heavy non-switching boat anchors, you can find them, just the shipping is high.

An amount of ripple is just fine with FAP's, check the specified ripple output of the power supply and the amount the diode is allowed to have. Also depends on how hard you are pushing it for some diodes. Just make sure the peak of the ripple isn't too high, or goes into the negative region. For well engineered switching supplies, you shouldn't have to worry with FAP's, not the low voltage DC lab supplies with good filtering. If you have an oscilloscope, you can double check the ripple before using.

PS: That Jenoptik supply is a switching power supply, and designed for high current diodes.

Also, here are the specs for the Sorensen:

Additional Features:

  • Voltage: 0-10V
  • Current: 0-80A
  • Power: 1000W
  • 115 VAC single phase input standard
  • 50/60 Hz operation without derating
  • 0.05% line and load regulation
  • 65mV RMS ripple
  • 50 ms transient response-50% change typical
  • Low-Level Remote Sensing
  • Low Ripple and Noise
  • Direct & Master-Slave Paralleling and Series Operation
  • Excellent V and C regulation, autocrossover and indicator lights
  • Amperage and voltage meters
  • Automatic crossover between constant voltage (CV) and constant current (CC)
  • Remote voltage and resistance programming in voltage and current modes
  • Adjustable current limiting (overload/short circuit protection) with automatic recovery
  • Overvoltage protection with crowbar standard
 
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