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Eye protection - complete range ?

ShortyInCanada

ShortyInCanada

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So I'm one of the first to always post about using the proper protective eyewear.
Having said that, I have NOTHING myself.
As I also had only the anniversary 532 5mw pointer this hasn't been a problem.

But now I have a cheap chinese projector (that wasn't what it was sold as - no surprise) that will be the start of some tinkering and the likes.

So, from experience, does anyone know of the best combinations of safety eyewear that I should invest in ?
I'm looking for an easy purchase option, if possible. Like everything from the same place. If this means a little less quality to save on dual shipping rates then I am willing to accept it this time.
As I'm just starting out with the tinkering I won't be spending much consecutive time working on things. More likely an hour or two every few weeks. So the chances of any longer term exposure will be negligible.
And I will be buying at least TWO of everything as my son is always interested in what Daddy is doing. Teach him strict safety from the beginning. (So his eyes don't get as bad as Dad's.)
Let's see...the projector is the L86 I think. "300mw 650nm Red Laser & 80mw 532nm Green Laser & 300mw 450nm Blue/RGB Full Color Laser Light/DJ Equipment(Auto & Sound &DMX& ILDA PC)RGB-500" directly from the DD website as of this posting.
Slightly more powerful than the Reke 500RGB BUT it doesn't have the ILDA interface as listed. The main reason I am going to "tinker" with it actually.
Not bad for the $250 all inclusive that I paid for it. (Parts are worth almost double I believe...)
BUT I NEED THE SAFETY EYEWEAR !!!

What do you people have for suggestions ? (Keep it simple please.)
:thinking:
 





Goggles that cover many wavelengths tend to be very expensive.

May be cheaper to buy the goggles individually and make sure you know which diode is which wavelength.
 
Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Yes that was the plan.
I was looking for any experienced opinions about which suppliers provided the best overall products.
I was looking for the opinions that include such unadvertised factors like comfort, fit, durability, and things like that. The types of things that only people who have banged through a few different products would be able to offer advice about.

Now, however, I find that I am unemployed.
It seems that once again a person in a far off branch looking at the numbers involved in operations concluded that eliminating warehouse personel is an effective way to trim operating expenses. (The general conclusion being that if there are no sales occurring that there must be no need for warehouse operations.)

So, while I will still value any information that is offerred, I think that EVERY penny pinched will be required for the next few months.
If I still have a home to live in come summertime I might be able to consider some form of "hobby" again.
Thank you to all in advance.
 
Welcome to the club, ShortyInCanada! Sorry to have you join the ranks =/. I've been unemployed for a while now, everything pretty much shuts down in the winter, and it makes finding work near impossible. Hope they treat you better in the land of the maple leaf!

I did some research on welding gear's OD rating (I'm an ex-welder) and found a formula to convert shade numbers into OD ratings. Above shade 5 gets hard to see through without bright lighting because they attenuate the entire visible spectrum, but if you absolute need protection for cheap, welding gogles are only about $10. Welding lenses have the lowest OD rating for the 500-600 range, with the high 500's being the lowest, but it is still strong attenuation. Formula is:

Shade number minus 1 divided by 2.33 = OD rating. So a Shade 14 lens is OD5.5.
 
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The ML7 pair is quite dark, but even though it's not rated for blue I find it works fine for 405nm and decent for 445nm. It doesn't have high OD's but at least it's some protection for all three wavelengths.
 
ARGLaser said:
Problem is the first ones don't cover 650nm and the second ones don't cover 445nm/532nm.....
Click to expand...

No, but the combination does offer better protection overall, for less.

Besides, the OP was asking... "So, from experience, does anyone know of the best combinations of safety eyewear that I should invest in ?"

Speaking from experience I usually end up wearing my eagle pair goggles since they have somewhat higher vlt than the oem ones, and the slip over version is not quite as tight... so much more comfortable to wear on those stretches when I want to LPM all my lasers:p

I mean there is always a cheaper, safer option, but good luck enjoying your lasers with it...

brick-glasses.jpg


Just kidding :D:p
 
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InfinitusEquitas said:
No, but the combination does offer better protection overall, for less.

Besides, the OP was asking... "So, from experience, does anyone know of the best combinations of safety eyewear that I should invest in ?"

Speaking from experience I usually end up wearing my eagle pair goggles since they have somewhat higher vlt than the oem ones, and the slip over version is not quite as tight... so much more comfortable to wear on those stretches when I want to LPM all my lasers:p

I mean there is always a cheaper, safer option, but good luck enjoying your lasers with it...

Just kidding :D:p
Click to expand...

Fair enough, for the price I guess blocking 2/3 wavelengths isn't bad :p
 
Making goggles that block all the frequencies from a RGB projector but still allow a decent amount of visisble light transmission isn't really feasible. There is a little bit of spectrum around the yellow that could safely be passed, but even with that you would experience a great reduction of visible light and see monochrome.

If you want to work on RGB projectors safely, i would suggest using 2 pairs of glasses - one to block blue and green, and one to block red. You should disable (i.e. disconnect the power supply to) the color that does get through when working on the system.

Once you get all the colors properly focussed and such you would need to do the final alignment with all 3 colors without any protection, but at that point you already know where all the beams (and stray beams) go, so you can keep clear.
 
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