Endcap-Pot Build Idea?

[Wolfman29]

So I am working on a labby right now and I have a nice, 25Ohm pot all nicely hooked up, ranging anywhere from, what, 50mA to about 1.4A. I was thinking, though, is there any precedence for someone attaching a pot (connected to the driver) at the endcap of a handheld build? Obviously a button would have to be put somewhere else (like near the head), and I have no idea how I would get batteries in there (which is another thing I need help on), but can it be done?

The idea is essentially to have an adjustable 445 (or 405, whatever) in a handheld that doesn't have set modes, but instead is controllable by a nice, ergonomic potentiometer.

EDIT: Just had an idea: what if I had an openable host to put the batteries in, like in those toys? Then the endcap doesn't have to come off and neither does the head! Maybe a hinged door in which to play a 18650 or two? Mwahahaha.

 

[rhd]

The way I could see that working -

- Use 17650s so that theres room to run two wires down the inside of the host to the pot.
- Add a clicky up top
- Battery spring directly to case

Voila!

 

[Wolfman29]

Why not use just a bigger host to run wires down?

And the clicky up top - seems reasonable.

And what do you mean, battery spring directly to case?

 

[rhd]

If the batteries don't rattle, then size of host doesnt matter. No space for the wires.

Battery spring will need to be soldered right to the host.

 

[Wolfman29]

Oh. So how would I prevent rattling *and* allow the space for the wires? Sorry, I don't understand :\

 

[Likquidblur]

The idea is to leave enough room for the batteries and wires to fight snuggly , the rattle will be stoped by the wires, they will take up the free space the batteries dont fill. So your options are to use smaller batteries or larger host, but just because it is a bigger host doesnt always mean it has a bigger battery compartment, your choice.

 

[HIMNL9]

The more simple solution is, usually, the better solution ..... why run wires down to the endcap, when your driver is a SERIAL device ? ..... just place it in the endcap

Just be sure to build the handheld in a way that cannot be used with any other endcap !!

 

[Likquidblur]

Re: Endcap-Pot Build Idea?
The more simple solution is, usually, the better solution ..... why run wires down to the endcap, when your driver is a SERIAL device ? ..... just place it in the endcap

Just be sure to build the handheld in a way that cannot be used with any other endcap !!

One problem i see, there will still need to be wires running to the LD at the front. Excuse me for my ignorance if im wrong, or does the serial driver you mentioned cover this point (what do you mean serial device btw)

 

[HIMNL9]

A current driver is connected in serie, in a circuit (as we use them), so is indifferent that you place it between the battery and the LD, or between the battery and the body (if the driver is designed correctly, ofcourse)

So, cause one of the conductors is the body, you can place it in the endcap, connected between the body and the battery (as the switch itself is, in a tailcap switch )

If you are planning to use it for a red diode, you must ofcourse match the case polarity of the diode, if instead you are planning to use it for a blue diode, the case is not connected, so you can connect it to the anode or cathode indifferently, and also this problem does not exist

The only precaution to observe, as i said, is to make the body in the way that you cannot, for any reason, use a different endcap on it (otherwise the LD become connected directly to the battery, being the driver inside the original endcap)

 

[Likquidblur]

ahhhhh DUHH silly me.. i understand, just like how the ground wire from the driver is connected to the host which uses the host itself to reach the negative terminal on the bat. thanks for explaining.

 

[Wolfman29]

Ooo, I like that solution! Thanks! When I get my LOC from HighTechDealz, I will start this build... might be a while though.