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Ebay seller newgazer and techhood - same seller, different accounts.

GSS

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Ok, as I was happy with the first "Aptlightingworld" 532 "200mw" cheapie labby that does a very steady 175mw I ordered another 532 "200mw" unit.
Came this morning and unfortunately it's only doing around 125mw. Very stable and it's focusable but now seeing it's a hit or miss thing like are 301 pointer friends. These don't have any type of "pot" on the driver.
It's no surprise to point out these cheapie labby's seem to have no "blue prints" and put together by any scrap parts laying around. The first one has the usual glue all piled on the back of the module where the fan blows. This second unit is basicly void of glue and I see a plug type connect to the pump diode pins that's not there on my first and a difference in the AL back half that goes in the big labby it's self.
This cheapie labby addiction has kicked in hard and i'm now waiting for a 300mw unit:whistle: If this breaks into the lower 200mw i'll be some what happy.. The pic shows blue based "pot" screws but will see??
I was thinking of the TEC cooled unit as Paul mentioned but wanted to keep the hook up simpler..
 
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GSS

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Ok got to fiddle a bit and on a quick note i'm actually surprised this stays around a steady 275mw.
Only ran it for 5 minutes straight so far but stayed stable. The spot quality could be a little better though.
This little labby is a notch bigger than the 200mw units. The fan is a little bigger also and wanted to note that the main body isn't solid and the fan cools through it instead of only just hitting the back of the diode/module.
The front hole/lens is 25mm wide but not sure yet if the brass module itself is that wide.
I played with the focus a little bit but the lens is a bit tight as it "seems" they anodized it with the lens on and its on the front threads of the host.
I need to make a little lens tool and slowly screw out the lens and loosen the threading and take a look inside.
Any idea's of what the 2 pots on the driver might do if I turn them?? Are they for the TTL function? I don't think I want to touch them..
 
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paul1598419

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Ok got to fiddle a bit and on a quick note i'm actually surprised this stays around a steady 275mw.
Only ran it for 5 minutes straight so far but stayed stable. The spot quality could be a little better though.
This little labby is a notch bigger than the 200mw units. The fan is a little bigger also and wanted to note that the main body isn't solid and the fan cools through it instead of only just hitting the back of the diode/module.
The front hole/lens is 25mm wide but not sure yet if the brass module itself is that wide.
I played with the focus a little bit but the lens is a bit tight as it "seems" they anodized it with the lens on and its on the front threads of the host.
I need to make a little lens tool and slowly screw out the lens and loosen the threading and take a look inside.
Any idea's of what the 2 pots on the driver might do if I turn them?? Are they for the TTL function? I don't think I want to touch them..
On the pots.....one is for diode current and the other is likely for setting the maximum Vf for the diode. It is difficult to be sure without having one in front of me. It should output no less than 285 mW by their own specs, but you can likely get more out of it by increasing the diode current. I would expect a Gaussian beam, but you didn't specify what you meant "spot quality". They claim to use a glass lens for focusing, but that doesn't mean it is a good quality lens. I would have to see one.
 
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GSS

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Well the best I can put it is the spot isn't as tight as a my lower powered 532 pointers. It's not to bad but not also sure if it's just the extra splash from the greater brightness. Also the beam doesn't come out razor thin from the apature and needs about 4 or 5 inch. to see a 532 profile that i'm use to.
The lens itself seems to be a good 30mm away from the inner collimating lens on the module in a area 25mm wide inside the labby itself.
There is also alot of glue holding the main lens from the back.
I need to post some good pic's first and maby do a little comparison with some of my others. Hopefully when I do post some pics this will give a better idea of what i'm describing.
I'll try to get some good driver pic's also. Don't get me wrong it's a great unit for the money to me anyway's. I also don't feel much heat from the driver itself.
I just might play with the pots after I get some input;)
 
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paul1598419

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I would certainly try to see what the limits are for this unit. It should be fairly easy to determine which pot controls the diode current.
 

GSS

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Just trying to get some pics.
Seems the main brass module is at least 20mm. It's a bit bigger than the 200mw unit, as the the 200mw unit was 14mm and bigger than the over pumped 12mm modules we see for just about the same price. Just trying to show the bigger mass in these units.
Thats the back of the lens with all the glue.
Wondering if anyone can give me a idea of the pot screws by the pic's of the ebay link itself?
Nothing I can make out unless I unscrew the board from the plastic holder and hopefully the back of the board will be marked like Beamer's 638 driver was.
Any hints on how to maby safely measure the current?


I know it's silly as everyone has seen millions of beam shots but the smaller unit on the right is the 200mw unit doing 175mw for comparison.
 

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