Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

DX 200

I wouldnt doubt it.. although as my above edit states, mine has the same constrution as the DX200 pics on their site. My old broken NewWish 50mw(eBay special) was an APC/potted driver setup. As per the NW spec thread, what you say wouldn't surprise me one bit, though.

I can definitely say this 150 is much brighter than the 50. Even with the APC killed, and the pot replaced by a chunk of solder, the 50 would not burn and was much dimmer(this 150 is quite blinding:D )

The whole "True" thing with these confuses me. If this is a true 50 on steroids, then that means the "true" lasers have NO APC or pot. Other threads including mine on the subject seem to suggest the "trues" as having an IR filter.

Either way, stability and brightnes-wise, this thing kicks azz:)
 





The 50 you speak of is the untrue 50 in other words a true 30 :)
 
Ahhh. that would explain it.

I wish I could find an affordable lasermeter to measure the actual ouput of these things. I bet that'd be one heck of a learning experience.
 
5mw-50mw = true 30 and true 50 = true 50, 100,150 & 200. Believe me ive stripped them all to pieces. The rominsoens and some of the other pointers ive got are completely different. While the have a similar setup to the true 50's they have very little heatsinking, plastic housings and no ir filtering.
 
There is a member in this forum, I believe its Kenom, He was selling a really nice unit and pretty sure the price was good. You might want to contact him for more info.
 
They say the best voice to be heard is a voice of experience:) Your responses have answered most of the questions I have had about these lasers. I may just dig out the crystal -still glued to the brass housing of course- from my 50 and combine it with the rest of my 5mw and revive the 50:D

Any chance that you have ended up with an extra collimating lens to fit my 150? I'd PayPal you a reasonable price for it:D

I'll search for Kenom:) Thanks again!
 
Pay the shipping and I can send you one flawless and new. Befor you try taking out the crystal remember dont separate the crystals from the brass, to glue them bak in is very difficult and the crystal from the true 30 is smaller than the true 50 +. If you dont glue them in properly thet will mode hop for a sec and burn up from the lack of heat transfer. Try rotating the housing which holds the crystal in the true 50 first. Turn it clockwise to tighten, this will put is closer to the diode. Anddont look into the barrel while its on, as you adjust, the green will intermidently stop emmiting but the IR will still be on and you can barely see a glow. The pump diode in the true 50 is minimum 500mW and will damage your eyes.
 
What I will have to try is much simpler than ungluing/regluing the crystal. What I have is the housing from the 50, blown diode removed.. I fried it from overmodding that driver board. I will have to remove the diode and driver from the 5mw, and attach them to the 50mw crystal housing, then reassemble the rest of the 5mw parts to that same housing. I will have to try to use the APC from the 50mw also, unless I go the no-APC route. Either way getting the optics to align I am sure wil suck.

Actually, I'll be surprised if I succeed, but this is all a learning experince for me. So far I don't think I am doing too bad for just getting started at all this in the end of January:D. Of course without all the info from the people in this forum, I'd be lost....
 
I got heavy into it in nov of last year, and ive used pretty much all dx parts to learn with before spending any real money on parts. I have approx 35 dead diodes and a bunch of other crap from all the dx units ive taken apart. Ive really become quite efficient at it. So a graveyard of parts and a ton more knowledge than when i started, and now im starting to spend good money on parts, and not frying anything. I make moudules with DX housings, but fit them with better crystals diodes and optics. The result is stunning green beams without the china hopping! This is indeed the most fun hobby I have encountered, every day your wisdom grows and it shows in the end result. I have to do some digging, but im pretty sure ive got a bunch of macro shots from my first dx teardowns. Since november starting with all of this ive documented thousands of pics all on dx stuff, which later had to be recovered from a dead hard drive. Unfortunately many of the pics are truncated and damaged from the sector recovery, but im sure i can find some helpful stuff for you. ::)
 
Wannaburn,

Where do you get the crystals required to fix these pointers? I would really love to revive my DX200s.
I've been adjusting it for a while now, and i can get a lot of green out, if i'm really patient, but i would imagine it would be much better with a quality crystal.

Also, do you add some collimation between the pump diode and the crystals? Or do you leave the IR uncollimated?



Since you say the True DX50 is the same as the DX200 except for the crystals, that would be the cheapest laser to buy for such a mod, right?
I'm currently returning a mode hopping DX200. Should i ask for a refund and buy two True DX50s instead and try my luck with them?
 
IgorT said:
Wannaburn,

Where do you get the crystals required to fix these pointers? I would really love to revive my DX200s.
I've been adjusting it for a while now, and i can get a lot of green out, if i'm really patient, but i would imagine it would be much better with a quality crystal.

Also, do you add some collimation between the pump diode and the crystals? Or do you leave the IR uncollimated?



Since you say the True DX50 is the same as the DX200 except for the crystals, that would be the cheapest laser to buy for such a mod, right?
I'm currently returning a mode hopping DX200. Should i ask for a refund and buy two True DX50s instead and try my luck with them?
Click to expand...


The DX 50 and the 200 are identical, the difference is some put out only 50mw and some put out higher. After they build them, they are just sorted into three catagories. Same pumps, same crystals, same optics, the ones that work better are just sold at a different rating. This is how they sell without wasting the lower output units. The crystals I purchase are from a guy on ebay in Australia, he has them for sale off and on but there are other suppliers availible. With the true 50, I have gotten 100mw simply by adjusting the the housing which holds the crystal, not changing it at all. Also using optics between the pump and the medium is only nescesary when using closed can diodes. The true 50 has an open can 9mm multimode. If you get the crystal closer to the pump the power goes up. The true 30 type with the APC and IR filter, have the crystal positioned at the factory and then glued in place. The true 50's can be adjusted and are not glued, adjusting it can eliminate mode hopping. The crystal housing is threaded and the slightest movement during shipping can knock it outta whack. YES MODE HOPPING CAN BE CORRECTED! My first true 50's I ordered was 2 of them, one was fine and the other mode hopped, after slight adjustment of the crystal, not the driver, the mode hopping dissapeared, and was metered at 120mW stable. Even the labbys I make with 1watt open cans will mode hopp, that is until I find the sweet spot ;D The only problem is, if you get the crystal in a off center position and the pump hits the edge of the crystal, you can burn up the pump from reflection and or burn up the crystal. It takes some practice and IR goggles for protection, and the death of a couple of units on occasion. This is why I started with DX units, as they are the cheapest to practice on.
 
SO, if you were me, I haven't sent the dx50 off yet for a replacement. Should I open it up and see what I can do by turning the crystal assembly? Keep in mind I already have an alpha 125 on the way so i'm not too worried about it. So take my chances on fixing it or get the replacement? Also, is it worth taking my dx30 apart?
 
So I ended up taking the 50 apart... played with the crystal quite a bit but couldn't make a big difference... I saw some pretty crazy 'tem' modes though :o

There was NO IR filter, and I couldn't find "new wish" on the laser innards ANYWHERE.... Hmm... :-?
 
Sounds like maybe the crystal is glued wrong(Just a guess but going from what has been said in this thread).

The Newwish name and website should be stamped in the brass underneath the glue holding the driver in place.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top