Driving a pre-made module from DTR's Laser shop?

[Who_What?]

Okay, firstly I want to say, awesome seller. However I don't want to bug someone who must be very busy. So I purchased 488nm SHARP corp. Laser diode module (Driver included, I believe that it's a Flex Drive, although I'm unsure...), I purchased it in this format main because I don't trust myself yet with direct handling of the diode yet. Now, I have a diode and a heat sink to put it in, but I would like to know how I should power it as to reduce the risk of transient currents possibly damaging the diode? Are normal batteries in series sufficient to meet the Below 6VDC that the Driver requires (Although I read the Datasheet that sharp produced for it, and it requires 6-7VDC?), or should I use a AC-DC PC power supply? Thanks!

 

[RedCowboy]

Astral PicoDrive CC Boost Driver for High Vf laser diode 405nm 488nm 495nm etc | eBay

405nm, 477nm, 480nm, 488nm, 490nm, 495nm, 505nm, 510nm, etc. Constant current laser diode boost driver designed for those high Vf laser diode like Use secure solder joints for laser diode connection.

www.ebay.com

 

[hakzaw1]

be sure to protect everything from Static--(& short all caps when they are used)

 

[icecruncher]

Okay, firstly I want to say, awesome seller. However I don't want to bug someone who must be very busy. So I purchased 488nm SHARP corp. Laser diode module (Driver included, I believe that it's a Flex Drive, although I'm unsure...), I purchased it in this format main because I don't trust myself yet with direct handling of the diode yet. Now, I have a diode and a heat sink to put it in, but I would like to know how I should power it as to reduce the risk of transient currents possibly damaging the diode?

If this is the one you have:

Google Sites: Sign-in

Access Google Sites with a personal Google account or Google Workspace account (for business use).

sites.google.com

DTRs' website, tells you; you drive it with 2.5-6.0v and something that will handle over 1A current. Read the heading for the one you bought.

Which means any SINGLE decent quality 18650 or even smaller batteries should be able to drive it without a problem.

Each 18650 is 3.7v and most will handle dropping much more than an amp without issue. Under load they will usually put out 3.5 - 4.0v. Cheap and older 18650 batteries may drop to as much as 2.5v, so stick with a good quality battery. Stay away from Ultrafire and Trustfire.

Two 18650s would result in too much voltage (3.7 x 2 = 7.4v) depending on the driver used it will either be converted to heat, which you don't want, or cause issues with the driver, which you also don't want.

Here is a good site for looking up batteries.

Parametrek Batteries

batteries.parametrek.com

 

[Who_What?]

If this is the one you have:


DTRs' website, tells you; you drive it with 2.5-6.0v and something that will handle over 1A current. Read the heading for the one you bought.

Which means any SINGLE decent quality 18650 or even smaller batteries should be able to drive it without a problem.

Each 18650 is 3.7v and most will handle dropping much more than an amp without issue. Under load they will usually put out 3.5 - 4.0v. Cheap and older 18650 batteries may drop to as much as 2.5v, so stick with a good quality battery. Stay away from Ultrafire and Trustfire.

Two 18650s would result in too much voltage (3.7 x 2 = 7.4v) depending on the driver used it will either be converted to heat, which you don't want, or cause issues with the driver, which you also don't want.

Here is a good site for looking up batteries.

Thanks for the Info, was unsure if the drivers specs superceeded what DTR suggested. I just got all the rest of the parts so I will upload some pictures when its up and running!