Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

DIY-10Watt-Laser Power Meter Project...

The reason I call it a DIY LPM is because we will not supply any
parts you have to Do It Yourself....

This is meant for owners and future 2nd hand owners of the Standard
Kenometer that want to build a very precise 10Watt max LPM in a
professional looking Lab style enclosure they can be proud of...
It is to revive interest in the oldere meter and turn your Ford into
a Porche... IMO

BTW with the newer High Powered C-Mount Lasers that some of us
are experimenting with... the original 2Watt max Standard Kenometer
or the 1Watt max LaserBee I will not do the job..
(we use up to 7Watts in the Shop)


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
Last edited:





Fat finger aside...

I suppose its a DIY conversion :)

With DIY topics i usually assume that they are things you have to build/assembe yourself from available parts, such as a DIY diode driver you build from components you can all get at radioshack or easily order online.

I think the parts list is especially funny when it comes to that: A whole list of stuff complete with part numbers and all.. down to the last item. Its like 2 ounces of copper, 20 ml of mercury and a tablespoon of unobtanium as a recipe for DIY gold :D
 
it sucks you did something so great and ppl are bent out of shape over a title? any ways jerry congrats on this great project that you tackled and COMPLETED!!!


michael
 
lasersbee said:
Actually the Coherent PCB as is can go to 10 Watts... The problem
was getting it to calibrate properly... we couldn't lower the calibration
to match our calibration standard... and therefore made the changes
to the Coherent PCB...
Click to expand...

Uhm, just a doubt ..... maybe cause in the original assembly where these heads was used, the head was thermally stabilized with a link took from the J1 connector to the PCB rear the head (it's a thermally stabilized heater, i have a similar head, also if a little bit different from the one used in Kenometer, 15W instead 10W, it uses the same system)

Probably the original signal level was set-up for the negative difference that the head was giving at the output, without lasers shined on it, having the case more hot than the reading disk (it's one of the two systems for thermally stabilize a thermopile reading head, this one ..... or you keep it cold, or you keep it hot, and heating something is always more easy that cooling it, after all :p :D) ..... so, i guess, you had to change the reference signal level, for set it on the neutral level with no laser shined in, that you have using the head as "cold" type (ambient temperature) .....

Just wondering, basing it on the way as my one works ..... am i right ?
 
That makes sense as to calibration using or not using the Head
heater...

The original Kenometer does not use the Head heater nor is it
connected..
On top of that... (in the Kenometer) a lot of the original Coherent
PCB has been cut off. The only parts being used is the OP Amp
and associated parts.

Since the heater is not used... the calibration was not able to go
low enough...:cool:

Good catch....:gj:


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
Last edited:
Jerry, thank you for figuring this mod out.

Now days this is a life savior for whoever owns one of original Kenometars. It will save me a lot of money, and you did a great deed by offering this instead of just selling your 3.2W and 5W meters.

from 2W to 10W upgrade is a $1000 Lamborghini now that meny of us can build 2+ Watt lasers. And next year, and the year after :lasergun:....

very much appreciated. !!

cheers

By the way:

After i opened my Kenometer, i realised that that Thermopile head has PCB mounted on the back of the silver plate. I don't see that on your pictures. Any ideas what to do with it, and what the difference is?

cheers
 
Last edited:
Milos said:
Jerry, thank you for figuring this mod out.

Now days this is a life savior for whoever owns one of original Kenometars. It will save me a lot of money, and you did a great deed by offering this instead of just selling your 3.2W and 5W meters.

from 2W to 10W upgrade is a $1000 Lamborghini now that meny of us can build 2+ Watt lasers. And next year, and the year after :lasergun:....

very much appreciated. !!

cheers

By the way:

After i opened my Kenometer, i realised that that Thermopile head has PCB mounted on the back of the silver plate. I don't see that on your pictures. Any ideas what to do with it, and what the difference is?

cheers
Click to expand...
Glad that you appreciate my efforts Milos...;)

Remove the PCB on the back of the Head like in the photos...
It has no function since the original Coherent PCB had been cut..
As I stated above only the OpAmp and associated circuit parts
are used on the PBC.


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
Last edited:
Hi Jerry.
Few questions about 10W meter Kenometer mod.

1.
For R14 You keep writing 2k2 1% pot. I guess this means 2.2K ohm, OR it has to be 2K ohm?
-Also, is it necessary to be 1%. I have 2.2K ohm 5% resistor handy.

2.
Not sure about wiring those 560K ohm resistors. Do they go inline with pins of 1M ohm Zeroing pot thats on the front panel?

3.
For R15 I did not get any pot. Only two resistors on top of each other (connected in parallel). One side of them was connected to single turn 1M ohm tiny pot that was mounted on the side of box for zeroing. Should i just ignore all that and buy 10 turn 1K pot as you have for better calibration ability?

4. Could you repost links for wiring schematics. that would help a lot.

Thanks again!
 
Last edited:
Milos said:
Hi Jerry.
Few questions about 10W meter Kenometer mod.

1.
For R14 You keep writing 2k2 1% pot. I guess this means 2.2K ohm, OR it has to be 2K ohm?
-Also, is it necessary to be 1%. I have 2.2K ohm 5% resistor handy.

2.
Not sure about wiring those 560K ohm resistors. Do they go inline with pins of 1M ohm Zeroing pot thats on the front panel?

3.
For R15 I did not get any pot. Only two resistors on top of each other (connected in parallel). One side of them was connected to single turn 1M ohm tiny pot that was mounted on the side of box for zeroing. Should i just ignore all that and buy 10 turn 1K pot as you have for better calibration ability?

4. Could you repost links for wiring schematics. that would help a lot.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Hey Milos....

1) because in quoting fractional resistances on paper where
a small decimal point can easily be lost or overlooked or badly
copied... it is a standard notation practice to replace the decimal
point with the value character used..
( ie... 2,200 Ohms = 2.2K Ohms = 2K2 Ohms)
( ie... 1,600,000 Ohms = 1.6M Ohms = 1M6 Ohms)

2) Yes the original resistors on the original Zero Pot are discareded
and the two 560K Ohm resistors go on the extreme ends of the new
Zero Pot.

3) I just hunted down the original drawings and uploaded them
to our website. The links for Fig 4... Fig 5 and Fig 7 are now
functional.


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
Last edited:
Thanks for quick reply, and reposting links.

Just tell me if my carbon film 2.2K 5% resistor is good, or It really should be more precise 1% tolerance metal film resistor?

thanks, cheers
 
It is always preferable to use 1% tolerance resistors
in instrumentation electronics.
The resistor it replaces is a 1%...


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
Last edited:
fair enough. I wouldn't want to risk anything for couple of bucks.

thanks
 
If you are not in a hurry I can sent you the 1% resistor
you need by snail mail...

Just send me a PM with your address...


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top