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- Jan 8, 2009
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I recently did a build and the current draw was well over 5A, while I was using the famed McClicky I could literally hear:cryyy: it struggling. The first 2 McClickys I used would make the unit flash a couple of times upon start up:gun: This wan't the first time I had this issue. I have had some crap tail switches in some of my cheaper host that could not handle the current.
Here is my solution. I hope that some of you could use it as well, it is nothing new, but I haven't seen this same tip out there so here it is LPF:wave:;
I ordered some forward clicky's from Digi-key
Then I ordered up some blank driver boards from our very own local souce Zero lasers. Thanks for the fast shipping man:beer: I used both the 20mm and 22mm for this tutorial.
I had to pull it apart the Judco with a small screwdriver, the process is very easy. You want to remove the guts as not do damage them during the re-sizing
I had to reduce the size of the switch, it has this offset anyways so I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to make a straight cut across here. In older models of the switch it was hollow in this area, not the case anymore. The plastic is very hardy, but not flexable.
This is whats it looks like when re-sized.
Next, I used the dremel to make some grooves so that the copper leads and solder points on the driver-board would allow for a flush mount.:wave: This one for the 22mm board.
Then you carefully bend the copper leads under the switch and match the driver-boards solder pads. This one for the 20mm board (will also fit X-blank, just barely)
Then solder up a spring. I applied some JB quick set to protect where the pad and switch meet... not that you need to. There you have it fellow laser heads a 10A custom clicky... I don't know maybe I should name it the JJ McClicky:crackup::crackup::crackup::beer:
Thanks for looking, as I always say "get out there and build it". Have a good day.:thanks:jander6442
Here is my solution. I hope that some of you could use it as well, it is nothing new, but I haven't seen this same tip out there so here it is LPF:wave:;
I ordered some forward clicky's from Digi-key
Then I ordered up some blank driver boards from our very own local souce Zero lasers. Thanks for the fast shipping man:beer: I used both the 20mm and 22mm for this tutorial.
I had to pull it apart the Judco with a small screwdriver, the process is very easy. You want to remove the guts as not do damage them during the re-sizing
I had to reduce the size of the switch, it has this offset anyways so I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to make a straight cut across here. In older models of the switch it was hollow in this area, not the case anymore. The plastic is very hardy, but not flexable.
This is whats it looks like when re-sized.
Next, I used the dremel to make some grooves so that the copper leads and solder points on the driver-board would allow for a flush mount.:wave: This one for the 22mm board.
Then you carefully bend the copper leads under the switch and match the driver-boards solder pads. This one for the 20mm board (will also fit X-blank, just barely)
Then solder up a spring. I applied some JB quick set to protect where the pad and switch meet... not that you need to. There you have it fellow laser heads a 10A custom clicky... I don't know maybe I should name it the JJ McClicky:crackup::crackup::crackup::beer:
Thanks for looking, as I always say "get out there and build it". Have a good day.:thanks:jander6442
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