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Diode press for sale $15.00

Accutronitis

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It's going to be about a week to 10 day before he gets back to his shop and processes any orders........
 



RedCowboy

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Ok, so I will get it in a couple of weeks or so, that's ok, I have been using a 6mm socket ( I know that's an 8mm in the demo pic ) and a square of aluminum to protect the copper module face, you just have to pinch the socket and module with your fingers tight and stop if it gets the least bit off center while pressing in your vise, so yes, the little tool will be nice even though I am pretty good at this.

Yes I always fully seat my diodes so the back countersinks a bit, this was ok with the 5.6 diodes but the copper back is a good thing for the 9mm diodes to draw heat from more surface area.

I have never lost a diode seating by hand ( knock on wood ) but the little tool will be cool, sure I could make one but why, I don't mind waiting a couple of weeks.

BTW, what was your last post to wesdaman14 about ?



 

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lasersbee

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Ok, so I will get it in a couple of weeks or so, that's ok, I have been using a 6mm socket ( I know that's an 8mm in the demo pic ) and a square of aluminum to protect the copper module face, you just have to pinch the socket and module with your fingers tight and stop if it gets the least bit off center while pressing in your vise, so yes, the little tool will be nice even though I am pretty good at this.

Yes I always fully seat my diodes so the back countersinks a bit, this was ok with the 5.6 diodes but the copper back is a good thing for the 9mm diodes to draw heat from more surface area.

I have never lost a diode seating by hand ( knock on wood ) but the little tool will be cool, sure I could make one but why, I don't mind waiting a couple of weeks.

BTW, what was your last post to wesdaman14 about ?



Was looking for a cheap and dirty way of installing a
9mm 520nm LD. Thanks... I like it...

Jerry
 

RedCowboy

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Go slow as you press and keep a tight grip at the diode/socket junction, you don't want to slip out and mash your pins.
If it feels like it want's to press uneven then loosen your vise and rotate it all 180 degrees and press a little more, you can flip flop 180 out several times until it's going in then your golden, you want the diodes back plate to sit a hair under the copper modules lip.

It helps a lot to have a 2nd person to turn the vise crank so you can focus on the press, that way you can loosen and tighten several times as you align a perfectly straight press.

But mostly be patient and go slow, once you feel it start you have it, but you can still rotate and finish it so that the back plate sits evenly countersunk.

The solid copper back is a snug fit as the pins are offset, so I solder my wires to the bottom of the pins and slightly inside the pins to center the wires, don't solder on top of the pins, make your heat shrink tubing the smallest possible and bend your pins slightly down, I use heat sink paste on the diodes back and smear a little on the heatshrinked pins so it acts as a lubricant, make sure your solder weld is smooth, any barbs can poke through the heatshrink and short, it gets easy aftery you have done a few, it's just a snug fit.
 

Accutronitis

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Unfortunately for me the brass part that I need to press the diode into is deeply recessed.....



 

RedCowboy

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I would drill that out and use a 12mm module so you get the backplate heatsinking, but if you wanted to press a diode into that hole then the extraction tool or just the right size thin wall socket could be used, or a length of steel tubing to press it in.
 

paul1598419

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I used the diode presses and a huge pair of channel locks. It has worked every time for me. I guess the only trick, if you can call it that, is to make sure the diode is seated properly before you press. It's quick and easy and has never failed me. I did cover the channel lock teeth with thin pieces of metal as they would be hard on everything. :D
 

Accutronitis

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I have a very small arbor press that I kept after I closed down my family ran aircraft maintenance shop.

I just found something I think will work perfect for pressing the diode in, It's a dremel collet......




 
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Accutronitis

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I would drill that out and use a 12mm module so you get the backplate heatsinking, but if you wanted to press a diode into that hole then the extraction tool or just the right size thin wall socket could be used, or a length of steel tubing to press it in.
Don't modules have a threaded section for the collimating lens to screw into ? For my host I need the diode output to be close to flush with the surface of the brass plug because I'm using a "focusing host" so the collimating lens is in the focusing host housing and it needs to be able to bring the lens in close to the diode to be able to focus the output beam......


EDIT - Dam spammer screwed me up with my posts ! lol
 
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RedCowboy

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That should work, but I would drill it out to 12mm so you can use the copper back half, or the short copper back half to draw heat off the back, unless it's a 7675, if a 44 it needs the heatsink on the back.
 
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Accutronitis

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That should work, but I would drill it out to 12mm so you can use the copper back half, or the short copper back half to draw heat off the back, unless it's a 7675, if a 44 it needs the heatsink on the back.
A 44 ! no no no, It's only a M462 at 2.2 watts with a super x-drive set at only 1.8 amps, It takes awhile for it to start to get at all warm......

I'm messing around with the diode again because I was having problems with beam expander output beam alignment and I noticed that when I removed the BE and looked at the laser from the side of the laser the beam was coming out of the collimating lens at a angle (that's not good) so I set out to fix that and in the process of figuring out what was going on I rapped the diode housing one too many times and the next time I turned it on the diode output was all messed up so I had to buy a new diode that will be here Monday, Opps my bad...........
 
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Lildutchboy7

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These still for sale? I'd like to buy some for a 9mm build I've got coming.
 







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