- Dec 30, 2016
It's going to be about a week to 10 day before he gets back to his shop and processes any orders........
Was looking for a cheap and dirty way of installing aOk, so I will get it in a couple of weeks or so, that's ok, I have been using a 6mm socket ( I know that's an 8mm in the demo pic ) and a square of aluminum to protect the copper module face, you just have to pinch the socket and module with your fingers tight and stop if it gets the least bit off center while pressing in your vise, so yes, the little tool will be nice even though I am pretty good at this.
Yes I always fully seat my diodes so the back countersinks a bit, this was ok with the 5.6 diodes but the copper back is a good thing for the 9mm diodes to draw heat from more surface area.
I have never lost a diode seating by hand ( knock on wood ) but the little tool will be cool, sure I could make one but why, I don't mind waiting a couple of weeks.
BTW, what was your last post to wesdaman14 about ?
Don't modules have a threaded section for the collimating lens to screw into ? For my host I need the diode output to be close to flush with the surface of the brass plug because I'm using a "focusing host" so the collimating lens is in the focusing host housing and it needs to be able to bring the lens in close to the diode to be able to focus the output beam......I would drill that out and use a 12mm module so you get the backplate heatsinking, but if you wanted to press a diode into that hole then the extraction tool or just the right size thin wall socket could be used, or a length of steel tubing to press it in.
A 44 ! no no no, It's only a M462 at 2.2 watts with a super x-drive set at only 1.8 amps, It takes awhile for it to start to get at all warm......That should work, but I would drill it out to 12mm so you can use the copper back half, or the short copper back half to draw heat off the back, unless it's a 7675, if a 44 it needs the heatsink on the back.