Custom heatsinks and little more

[funky_boy]

Hello,
I am new to this forum and lasers(actually I am a member for 4 years, I was curious then, but not very into it). It's good to see people helping each other and giving advices.

I wanted a handheld powerful laser pointer, than I started to searching forums, and things. And than I wanted most powerful. Than I asked to myself, what a wonderfu... sorry... I asked to myself why I dont build my own.

Start searching again. Hosts, diodes, drivers, module and my personel favorite heatsink. I say like that, Heatsink is the one that can personalize most I like build things, and I am not bad, I mean, I guess. Heatsink is the one that can personalize most.

So I find this rods(Picture below). Each has 20mm diameter and 1,5m long. And about 40 dollars. It's copper and I think, I can make 25-30 heatsinks from one rod. There is also 45mm diameter rods too, which is naturally more expensive.

For now I am on vacation and I wont do anything except going to beach. But 2 months from now I'll start getting bored. Then I can do some hardwork.

I just wanted to ask, look at image below. Which one is beter for cooling. I am asking, because every single heatsink I saw on internet has no layer or leaves or what you call it. You'll get the point.

Sorry I am not paint master.

Thanks.

 

[hwang21]

I'm no expert, but I would think that heatsink B is more effective... there is more surface area to dissipate the heat. Just my two cents :beer:

 

[Lazerbeak]

I think the "fins" give more surface area, but I think there are two schools of thought and some feel mass is more important. I like the look of the fins though personally. Iinterested to see what some other more experienced members have to say.

~ LB

 

[Kookapeli]

Heatsink A would be more efficient as there would be less surface area inside to dissapate the heat to the host, if the fins were on the outside of the host then B

 

[Lazerbeak]

Makes sense, thanks for clarifying :beer:

~ LB

 

[funky_boy]

What if I cut out some part of the host like the image below. Not fully open but like a cage.

 

[Lazerbeak]

I think like Kookapeli pointed out, The airspace won't help dissipate heat as you want as much copper touching the host body as possible to move heat away from the diode. More surface area only helps if it is exposed to air or if you have some kind of active cooling like a Tec and with a Tec I don't know if the fins would be a benefit. You could extend the heatsink past the host body so it is exposed to air :thinking:

Edit...

Sorry, misunderstood your diagram. Maybe the cage idea would work. Haven't seen that yet. Might be cool

~ LB

 

[Kookapeli]

I'd go with LB's first Idea, if you had the length of the module in the heatsink past the host and that was finned that'd be cool

 

[funky_boy]

Okay, thanks. I thinks I'll start doing it at something like september. Maybe August.

And one more thing. Can you suggest me someone or somewhere to buy diode, module, driver and if possible safety equipment with cheap prices and guaranteed service. I looked at cajunlazer.com but there is no 9mm diode there(Nichia NDB7875 445nm).

Edit: and lens of course.

 

[jander6442]

If those are the same grounding rods I've seen before they are not solid copper and given the price you just quoted I'm left wondering.

 

[awillis2589]

yeah figure A would be best, unless it where say a lab style where the fins could have air to flow over them and cool it down, but for a host build figure A would be best.

 

[Kookapeli]

For Diodes and a module, I'd go with DTR, just go to the pro sellers section

 

[funky_boy]

If those are the same grounding rods I've seen before they are not solid copper and given the price you just quoted I'm left wondering.

There are different grounding rods, and these ones, as the shop says "Q20 mm 1,5 mt. SOM BAKIR TOPRAKLAMA ÇUBUĞU" and the translation is "Q20 mm 1,5 mt. SOLID COPPER GROUNDING ROD".

I didn't check it by myself, but if the description is true, there wont be any problem.

For Diodes and a module, I'd go with DTR, just go to the pro sellers section

Thanks

 

[grainde]

Wow I bought 2 x 6" lengths of copper rod 20 mm and 16 mm and it cost me around $ 60! Mine were high quality electrical copper and I believe 101, so its rather surprising that your "solid copper" is so cheap.

Any idea of the purity or type of copper alloy? :beer:

 

[funky_boy]

Wow I bought 2 x 6" lengths of copper rod 20 mm and 16 mm and it cost me around $ 60! Mine were high quality electrical copper and I believe 101, so its rather surprising that your "solid copper" is so cheap.

Any idea of the purity or type of copper alloy? :beer:

I'll ask about purity later. But I am Buying directly from factory. And from industrial city. Maybe that explains. But as I say I didn't check by myself and dont know anything about purity.

 

[funky_boy]

Hello again. I just wanted to clearify the toughts about price of the copper rod.

Copper rod is hundred percent pure. I'll buy them from copper wire company in Denizli/Turkey. Which is the city where is my school. And better news it might be even cheaper. About 11TL per kilogram. That makes less than $5.5.

And one more thing. There is also aliminum for very cheap. It is cheap because there is a lot in Seydisehir. I mean lot. For example, about 10 years ago, they intomb bodies with raw aliminum stones in graveyards because even dirt contains aliminum. Of course with out any disrespect to body. And you know what, Seydisehir is my home town. And of course there is aliminum factory.

This is raw aliminum and this stones are litterally everywhere in my hometown.:

I couldn't find any pictures of graveyard online. But I'll be in my hometown at 6th or 7th of August. So I can took some pics of old tombs. I know, its weird but I bet you haven't seen a tomb with aliminum.

Edit: And I might have a chance to produce 12 layer press circuit boards. I keep you noticed about that.