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FrozenGate by Avery

Copper to 'Burn', My Cu 510 units arrived...

RB great pictures---very nice pieces by Lifetime-high quality finish and superlative polishing--the hand work shows + duty cycle should be great with all that copper heatsinking.

It never ceases to amazme me , the high quality work LPF members do.
 
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dden4012 said:
Does the vinegar require some elbow grease or just apply and clean off after?
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It really depends on how much tarnish there is. Tarnish is caused by oxidation and you need a reducing agent to remove it. Any acid is a reducing agent. Since white vinegar is dilute acetic acid it works well for this. However, you can use another reducing agent as long as it doesn't react strongly with the copper metal. For six months worth of tarnish, I've found that a small amount of elbow grease removes it.
 
hi,
I find aa jewelers rag easier and less mess and evasive technique . Press the easy button .. been using hem for ever .

Rich:)
 
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I really like these modules. Great work Rich. RB looking forward to seeing the mod you choose. I like the clear coat idea. Let them sit in the solution for awhile and then handle with nitrile gloves and clean off with electrical cleaner spray, plug the holes and do the clear coat. I would love to buy some of these but I'm on a spending freeze till I see a new diode. I may panic buy if I feel the photon door closing due to regs.
 
dden4012 said:
RB looking forward to seeing the mod you choose.
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Thanks dden, yes I'll be choosing 3 different mods.
ATM I'm thinking one BDR 209 405nm, one 1W 520nm NDG7475 and one nice NUBM07 465nm.
Love the 465nm beam.

:D
 
hi RBA,
Those diodes you chose will be awesome all great WL's bare none Pal.. Cant wait to see some beams. Enjoy ..

Rich:)
 
Lifetime17 said:
hi,
I find aa jewelers rag easier and less mess and evasive technique . Press the easy button .. been using hem for ever .

Rich:)
Click to expand...

A jeweler's cloth is based on the same idea as sandpaper. It removes the top of everything. A reducing agent is chemical. It doesn't remove the copper, just the oxide cation. If the thing you are polishing has already been polished once, there is no need to do it twice.
 
Sorry for the double post, but this is a new day and It occurred to me the best way to plug the holes before applying clear acrylic is to use candle wax. Once it is dry you need only use a hair dryer to remove it and I'm pretty sure it is impervious to the solvents in the acrylic.
 
Out out topic question pretty much but still curious:whistle:
I did a Harbor Freight Tool store run and with coupon picked up a 4 pack of 12"x12" MicroFiber cleaning cloths.
What's the best use with these and has anyone found out they are good for something out of the ordinary?

Paul are you talking about the typical set screw holes in general?
 
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The set screw hole and the module holes, both. I believe the Microfiber cleaning cloths you purchased are similar to jeweler's cloth. They both have rouge impregnated in them and polish by removing the surface layer like extremely fine grit sandpaper.
 
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Hi,
To spruce up a shine real fast with no visual abrasive marks , i use a jewelers clothe i press the easy button it works awesome . Wall\ rt sells them for 6 bucks for silver and gold . You can't go wrong no way..

Rich:)
 
So I may have jumped the gun. I set a heatsink in the white vinegar solution and let it sit till my clear coat, nitrile gloves, and silly putty comes in ( too lazy to go out and get it myself). There was a small area that was exposed to the air in the sealed container and it was very oxidized. When this stuff arrives I will have to work quickly to clean up and apply the clear coat.
 
Yeah, I'd clean off the excess vinegar when it is done. I use acetone, but I think there are many products that will work. Don't forget to cover any holes that you don't want the clear coat to get into.
 
dden4012 said:
So I may have jumped the gun. I set a heatsink in the white vinegar solution and let it sit till my clear coat, nitrile gloves, and silly putty comes in ( too lazy to go out and get it myself). There was a small area that was exposed to the air in the sealed container and it was very oxidized. When this stuff arrives I will have to work quickly to clean up and apply the clear coat.
Click to expand...

Really curious to see how this works out. Hoping the best! :)
 
BobMc said:
Really curious to see how this works out. Hoping the best! :)
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So my first go at it was a lesson learned. I panicked when I saw bubbles in the wet clear coat and went off like a dumbass in an event that ended with 1200 grit wet dry sand paper. I now have an ugly heatsink lol.
I returned to the task with a smaller piece and it turned out great. The initial bubbles work themselves out and everything ends up drying clear and shiny. The white vinegar soak does the trick. The electrical cleaner does a good rinse and dries clean. Clean disposable gloves are a must.
 
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