convert protected to nonprotected.

[chipdouglas]

I have a microboost set to 600ma, feeding a m140, powered by a protected trustfire 10440.

my problem, is that it looses much power after <10mns run time. I've checked my driver for poor connections, I've taped it up inside the module, I've even put in a second driver.

After all that, I think my problem was my protected batt.

But here is my question. Have any of you guys taken the protection circuit off of a battery before?

I tried, but I seemed to have totally killed my battery now? I took out circuit, removed negative tab, removed connector from positive that runs all the way down batt barrel to pcb, removed the insulation layer on neg side.

Michael.

 

[InfinitusEquitas]

http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/how-remove-protection-circuit-18650-batteries-64746.html

Easier to just get new batteries though. FastTech has sanyos pretty cheap, they come out to $5 per battery.

 

[chipdouglas]

OK, I just read your link IE. I did that correctly. so my batt must be dead. crap =( luckily I have a few more.

Thanks for the help.

Michael.

 

[BShanahan14rulz]

You do realize that you are using a boost driver with a tiny cell? and that even though you are driving the diode @ 600mA, the driver is pulling more than that?

Just want to make sure you know this

 

[chipdouglas]

the cell is "rated" at 600ma. I just assumed if I went over I would have a shorter run time, but 10mns is crazy. But I don't know crap about how batteries really work.

Michael.

 

[sinner]

Your 10440 battery is just fine, Its actual capacity is no way near 600mAh.. Even the best ones (e-cig's or lighthound 10440's) have 200-250mA..

Under a 4C discharge/load , the Battery voltage depending on it's internal resistance may fall below Regulation Point of the Driver such as , From a fully charged battery to untill 4.05V your laser was working fine.. (Explains the 10m runtime)

Then as the Voltage of the battery is decreased, more current is drained and under load I have seen that 10440's go from 4.0V -to- <3.5V and therefore hard to maintain current/voltage for the driver..

Hope this helps!

 

[Things]

I wouldn't recommend removing the protection circuitry from lithium batteries for any reason. They seldom fail, and could save your life if the battery fails.

 

[chipdouglas]

Thank you guys. Yeah, I'm not goi g to take it off of my others. I'll just have to carry more batteries lol!!!


Michael

 

[Cyparagon]

I have a microboost set to 600ma

the cell is "rated" at 600ma.

But with a boost circuit, battery current is usually much higher than load current.

 

[chipdouglas]

But with a boost circuit, battery current is usually much higher than load current.

What do you mean? Are you saying that in the future, if using a boost driver, it should be set lower than my batts rated current?

 

[BShanahan14rulz]

When you run an LED or laser diode harder than it was designed to, it just stops working. Lithium ion cells in a sealed metal cylinder may have a different indication of failure.

A general rule of thumb for larger cells is 2C maximum. Smaller cells you might want to be even more conservative with, especially since their reported capacity is often much different than actual capacity.

Sinner did a good job explaining that the more current you pull from a cell, the lower its working voltage ends up being.

You may be able to find IMR 10440, which can be capable of a bit more power at the cost of even further reduced capacity (runtime).

 

[unrealistic]

Measure for voltage, if no voltage then most probably you killed your battery like others said, with drawing too high current from the battery. When lithium battery have no volt it means it had vented/safety vent popped. It is design to protect the battery from explosion by the gas build up. I once had a lithium battery going hot because it was pumping out too much current. i took it out place it on the floor to let it cold when i notice, but it go pop after a few minutes .... it is dead
Or you shorted out the +/- without you noticing when you remove the protection board and strip of contact result in venting.
And the stated capacity is normally tested at discharge of 50ma or 100ma or 200ma hardly at 500ma since the lower the discharge current, the more capacity it will show since less heat is lost.

 

[Antharak]

You just need a bigger battery. What are you getting for current draw on the battery?
I have a 3W+ 9nn 445, running around 2.3A that draws 1.95 to 2A at the tail cap. I use 26650s. If I use 18560s they drop off in about 5-6 min of run time to reach 4.0V, the 26650s last 30 min to read 4.0V. so if you go too a larger battery you will get more run time.
Don't go tearing apart any more Lion batteries, your just risking your self for nothing.

Check the link in my sig on batteries.