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FrozenGate by Avery

CLOSED: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale






Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

Nice DIY LPMs...

A few basic questions that you know I will ask...:evil:

1) What is the Power Density (CM2) of the Sensor coating...??

2) What is the wavelength range of your Sensor coating...??

3) Have you tested it with other wavelengths of Lasers at the
stated 3.5W+ rating...??

4)Are you using a Split Rail Supply for the Sensor amplifier
running on 3.7V...??

If the values of the components on the Zeroing circuit are
well chosen there should be no need to adjust the 2nd Zero
Trimpot on the PCB once it is set. There should not even be
a need for a 2nd Zero Pot..

BTW... Please don't tell me that I see Hot Glue used to hold
the PCBs in the LPM box....:eek:
You are asking for $200.00. There are better more professional
ways to hold the boards to the enclosure.


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
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Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

Nice DIY LPMs...

A few basic questions that you know I will ask...:evil:

1) What is the Power Density (CM2) of the Sensor coating...??

2) What is the wavelength range of your Sensor coating...??

3) Have you tested it with other wavelengths of Lasers at the
stated 3.5W+ rating...??

4)Are you using a Split Rail Supply for the Sensor amplifier
running on 3.7V...??

If the values of the components on the Zeroing circuit are
well chosen there should be no need to adjust the 2nd Zero
Trimpot on the PCB once it is set. There should not even be
a need for a 2nd Zero Pot..

BTW... Please don't tell me that I see Hot Glue used to hold
the PCBs in the LPM box....:eek:
You are asking for $200.00. There are better more professional
ways to hold the boards to the enclosure.


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics

They were protos OP said. As far as the glue goes it looks about as good as a job one could do with that material. Maybe the beta protos will have aluminum clips or something. They look good to me.:wave:
 
Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

BTW... Please don't tell me that I see Hot Glue used to hold
the PCBs in the LPM box....:eek:
You are asking for $200.00. There are better more professional
ways to hold the boards to the enclosure.

That's not just hot glue being used to hold down the PCB.

Note the professional hot glue battery mount. Also note the professional hot glue cable gland where the sensor cable enters the enclosure.

If you look closely you can also see that hot glue is being used to hold the LCD displays in place.

Oh, and:

- Power and range switches set at different angles
- No knobs on zeroing pots (surely, knobs don't cost that much that they would've broken your $200 budget)
- Hot glue on anodised aluminium on the sensor.
- UltraFire/TrustFire 18650 cell of unknown heritage
- What appears to be a loose connection going to the 10X range adj pot
- Unshielded lead to sensor (twisted pair + diff. amp at the very least, if you aren't going to shield)

Just for the record -- there is no way in hell there is more than $50 of components in those things, prototype or not. I would hedge a bet that the TEC is the most expensive component in the whole meter.

Even if you were to add in the cost of labour -- the sale price is still much too high.

DIY or not, prototypes or not, the build quality just isn't there. For $200, you can do a lot better. DIY/prototyping isn't an excuse.

On Facebook we have this group called 'Dodgy Technicians', and we're connoisseurs of this kind of work. If we weren't stagecraft-exclusive, this would make for ripe pickings.

Oh, and one last thing -- also for the record, I'm only pointing all of this out not because I disagree with the pricetag, but because there are issues fundamental to the build of the product that would be inexcusable at even half the price (c.f. Radiant Alpha). At the end of the day, there just isn't $200 worth of parts and effort there, no matter how you look at it.
 
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Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

That's not just hot glue being used to hold down the PCB.

Note the professional hot glue battery mount. Also note the professional hot glue cable gland where the sensor cable enters the enclosure.

If you look closely you can also see that hot glue is being used to hold the LCD displays in place.

Oh, and:

- Power and range switches set at different angles
- No knobs on zeroing pots (surely, knobs don't cost that much that they would've broken your $200 budget)
- Hot glue on anodised aluminium on the sensor.
- UltraFire/TrustFire 18650 cell of unknown heritage
- What appears to be a loose connection going to the 10X range adj pot
- Unshielded lead to sensor (twisted pair + diff. amp at the very least, if you aren't going to shield)

Just for the record -- there is no way in hell there is more than $50 of components in those things, prototype or not. I would hedge a bet that the TEC is the most expensive component in the whole meter.

Even if you were to add in the cost of labour -- the sale price is still much too high.

DIY or not, prototypes or not, the build quality just isn't there. For $200, you can do a lot better. DIY/prototyping isn't an excuse.

On Facebook we have this group called 'Dodgy Technicians', and we're connoisseurs of this kind of work. If we weren't stagecraft-exclusive, this would make for ripe pickings.

Oh, and one last thing -- also for the record, I'm only pointing all of this out not because I disagree with the pricetag, but because there are issues fundamental to the build of the product that would be inexcusable at even half the price (c.f. Radiant Alpha). At the end of the day, there just isn't $200 worth of parts and effort there, no matter how you look at it.

Forgoing your professional opinion I might mention that the "hot glue" could be something like some serious epoxy... I'm not endorsing these nor saying the price is where it needs to be:na: I'm just saying if all the things you listed as negatives in your "punch out list" were corrected to your satisfaction then these would real nice comming from a person who put them together from a household workbench. The layout is nice the boards look clean I like the switch arrangements. Try to keep positive when it comes to a members hard work, see what unfolds. Justin might have to arrange his price a little thats all, he has, soo far a good reputaton here. I don't think he is trying to rob you out of your hard earned money. :beer:
 
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Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

Well there are at lot of long post, so I wont qoute all of you.

Damage threshold is not calculated, but it is quite good,
as long as the laser isnt focused on the coating it wont be an issue for high power 445 or 635's.
I dont know about high power dpss 532's, but if you have a 3W 532, you probably can aford a non prototype lpm lol.

I have a virtual negative rail in my circuit If you wanted you could zero the thing to -.5W or +.5W with the internal ground.
As for not needed an internal pot, I would rather have the option since another pot is about 1$

Yes I used hot glue, I like it because it is forgiving, and it works.
as I recal the kenometer was assembled with hot glue lol.

As for building one of these for 50$, go for it.

As far as I can tell, 200 is one of the cheapest LPM's on the market
and 3.5W is pretty good too.

OH edit:
The batts are pretty good, Currently testing the battery life,
Im at 10 Hours and still going strong.

EDIT EDIT:
after class today Ill test the w/cm^2 ratting.
 
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Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

Guts look like ok to me. I'm sure a hobbyist will get pretty accurate readings thou we need to see some tests to verify that. Is the coating strong enough to handle powers up to 3.5 W ? looks like a very common coating to me. Not sure though. Again, they look sweet :)
 
Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

looks pretty good so far but any idea on how long it takes to sensor to warm up to ~90% laser power? Ie 5 10 or 15 seconds
 
Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

Ill test the exact damage threshold numbers later
But the coating has a metalic base and is quite resilient.

Most handheld lasers will be faster because the output drops as the diode warms up,
But with my stable test rig 90% takes about 15sec.
 
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Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

Would someone double check this for me,
I got the beam as tight as possible with out damaging the coating.
(click for bigger pic)

beam apears to be about 0.7mm x 0.7mm = 0.5mm^2 = 0.005cm^2
1.4W / 0.005cm ~= 300W/cm^2 :drool:

It looks like my damage threshold is about 300W/cm^2
so a safe bet would be 150 W/cm^2

Not bad at all
 
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Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

What LPM were these calibrated against?
 
Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

You know, for 200$, that's pretty legit.

I respectfully disagree. The Radiant Alpha previous sold for 100$, and were not held together with hot glue. The laserbee's are only a bit more than 200$ and are also not held together with hot glue...

Once I see some screws to hold the PCB's, zip ties holding the cables together, and a better detachable cable for the sensor then it could be considered a viable LPM for 200$.

This is what the insides of an LPM are supposed to look like http://i.imgur.com/xVi47.jpg

@justinjja
You've got what looks like the start of a good LPM here. Don't take this the wrong way I don't want to bash you, just trying to offer advice. I wouldn't pay more than 100$ for something like this. If you want to compete with LaserBee you're going to have to produce better quality LPM's. It wouldn't be much work to clean up the insides and make it look pretty, just a few screws and some zip-ties, and a bit of shrink wrap. Presentation counts for a lot. If this insides look like $h*% then people are going to think you're selling a low quality product.
 
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Re: Prototype Analog 3.5W+ LPM's for sale

I respectfully disagree. The Radiant Alpha previous sold for 100$, and were not held together with hot glue. The laserbee's are only a bit more than 200$ and are also not held together with hot glue...
I honestly fail to see the problem with hot glue, It works

Radiant Alpha's were under priced at 125$
They sold so fast they couldn't even keep them in stock

and to get a laserbee that can measure a 3.5W laser would cost over $600

And they don't even include a rechargeable battery :na:


As for accurcacy, since a 20c-a is 3% I would say 8% to be safe.
 


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