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Closed in preperation for my Digital LPM's
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Nice DIY LPMs...
A few basic questions that you know I will ask...:evil:
1) What is the Power Density (CM2) of the Sensor coating...??
2) What is the wavelength range of your Sensor coating...??
3) Have you tested it with other wavelengths of Lasers at the
stated 3.5W+ rating...??
4)Are you using a Split Rail Supply for the Sensor amplifier
running on 3.7V...??
If the values of the components on the Zeroing circuit are
well chosen there should be no need to adjust the 2nd Zero
Trimpot on the PCB once it is set. There should not even be
a need for a 2nd Zero Pot..
BTW... Please don't tell me that I see Hot Glue used to hold
the PCBs in the LPM box....
You are asking for $200.00. There are better more professional
ways to hold the boards to the enclosure.
Jerry
You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
BTW... Please don't tell me that I see Hot Glue used to hold
the PCBs in the LPM box....
You are asking for $200.00. There are better more professional
ways to hold the boards to the enclosure.
That's not just hot glue being used to hold down the PCB.
Note the professional hot glue battery mount. Also note the professional hot glue cable gland where the sensor cable enters the enclosure.
If you look closely you can also see that hot glue is being used to hold the LCD displays in place.
Oh, and:
- Power and range switches set at different angles
- No knobs on zeroing pots (surely, knobs don't cost that much that they would've broken your $200 budget)
- Hot glue on anodised aluminium on the sensor.
- UltraFire/TrustFire 18650 cell of unknown heritage
- What appears to be a loose connection going to the 10X range adj pot
- Unshielded lead to sensor (twisted pair + diff. amp at the very least, if you aren't going to shield)
Just for the record -- there is no way in hell there is more than $50 of components in those things, prototype or not. I would hedge a bet that the TEC is the most expensive component in the whole meter.
Even if you were to add in the cost of labour -- the sale price is still much too high.
DIY or not, prototypes or not, the build quality just isn't there. For $200, you can do a lot better. DIY/prototyping isn't an excuse.
On Facebook we have this group called 'Dodgy Technicians', and we're connoisseurs of this kind of work. If we weren't stagecraft-exclusive, this would make for ripe pickings.
Oh, and one last thing -- also for the record, I'm only pointing all of this out not because I disagree with the pricetag, but because there are issues fundamental to the build of the product that would be inexcusable at even half the price (c.f. Radiant Alpha). At the end of the day, there just isn't $200 worth of parts and effort there, no matter how you look at it.
You know, for 200$, that's pretty legit.
What LPM were these calibrated against?
My Ophir 20c-a
I honestly fail to see the problem with hot glue, It worksI respectfully disagree. The Radiant Alpha previous sold for 100$, and were not held together with hot glue. The laserbee's are only a bit more than 200$ and are also not held together with hot glue...