Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

How to Register on LPF | LPF Donations

Case GND

potatorage

potatorage

0
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
1,341
Points
0
I heard somewhere that if the diode - is connected to the case - then there is no need to connect the case - to the driver. I tried that and it does not work. How can I connect the case ground to the driver? Or what do I need to do to make this work? Using DX true green 5mw as host.
 





Daguin told me that you don't have to have the negative wire from the Flexdrive soldered to the negative diode pin, you can solder it to the case instead.

-Mark
 
rocketparrotlet said:
Daguin told me that you don't have to have the negative wire from the Flexdrive soldered to the negative diode pin, you can solder it to the case instead.

-Mark
Click to expand...


I either didn't express myself well enough or you misunderstood.  There MUST be both positive and negative paths connected to the diode.  The complete OUTPUT side of the driver MUST be attached to the diode.  The negative pin on the diode MUST be attached to the driver.  

This is probably where the misunderstanding occurred.   IF the case of the diode is attached to the negative pin (or is the negative path) AND the host/housing is the negative path, then you do not need the negative wire from the driver attached to the battery.

For example, If you are using a Kryton barrel with a flexdrive.  BOTH (neg and pos) diode pins must be connected to the OUTPUT side of the flexdrive, but you only need the positive path of the INPUT side of the flexdrive attached to the battery

[highlight]** battery -> positive connection --flexdrive -- positive and negative -> diode **  [/highlight]

In this case, if the diode is a violet laser, the negative pin and the case pin must be connected as well.  If this is a red laser then this secondary connection is not needed.  The case of the Kryton acts as the negative path for power to return to the negative side of the battery (through the tail switch). This connection scheme works for pen-type hosts as well (Newish, Leadlight, etc), but the switch is between the driver and the battery.

Peace,
dave
 
daguin said:
[quote author=rocketparrotlet link=1228667690/0#1 date=1228668874]Daguin told me that you don't have to have the negative wire from the Flexdrive soldered to the negative diode pin, you can solder it to the case instead.

-Mark
Click to expand...


I either didn't express myself well enough or you misunderstood.  There MUST be both positive and negative paths connected to the diode.  The complete OUTPUT side of the driver MUST be attached to the diode.  The negative pin on the diode MUST be attached to the driver.  

This is probably where the misunderstanding occurred.   IF the case of the diode is attached to the negative pin (or is the negative path) AND the host/housing is the negative path, then you do not need the negative wire from the driver attached to the battery.

For example, If you are using a Kryton barrel with a flexdrive.  BOTH (neg and pos) diode pins must be connected to the OUTPUT side of the flexdrive, but you only need the positive path of the INPUT side of the flexdrive attached to the battery

[highlight]** battery -> positive connection --flexdrive -- positive and negative -> diode **  [/highlight]

In this case, if the diode is a violet laser, the negative pin and the case pin must be connected as well.  If this is a red laser then this secondary connection is not needed.  The case of the Kryton acts as the negative path for power to return to the negative side of the battery (through the tail switch).  This connection scheme works for pen-type hosts as well (Newish, Leadlight, etc), but the switch is between the driver and the battery.

Peace,
dave[/quote]


Thanks for clearing that up. This was what I mean when I asked about are you sure, because I didn't explain it very well. I didn't want to question your knowledge even though I thought something was wrong.

daguin said:
[quote author=rocketparrotlet link=1228549101/0#2 date=1228549882][quote author=daguin link=1228549101/0#1 date=1228549283][quote author=rocketparrotlet link=1228549101/0#0 date=1228549100]My lead from the diode broke again when I was trying to fix my loosely-mounted module. The first time, it was the positive wire, now it's the negative wire (there wasn't a very good solder job from the diode to the leads.) My dad had a really hard time fixing it last time, because we only have an average size soldering iron, nothing meant for small components. My dad has taken a 160-hour course on soldering, and if he's saying it's hard, that's not good. Are there any special considerations I will need to tell him for this job, or any advice? Or am I just screwed?

-Mark
Click to expand...

If this is a blu-ray diode just put a spot of solder over what is left of the negative pin. That will connect the negative pin to the case. Then connect your negative wire to the case pin.[/quote]


Are there any special considerations here that would apply to the negative wire/pin and not the positive one?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Either you or I need to re-read the above paying particular attention to where the word "negative" is being used. Which pin is broken now, the positive or the negative?

I was under the impression that we were talking about the negative pin being broken from the beginning of our exchange.  EVERYTHING you have written above, and I worked from, is assuming that the negative pin is the one that is broken.  You said the first one that broke was the positive pin and your dad fixed it.  You asked about the now broken negative pin.

With a violet diode, if the NEGATIVE pin is broken off, you just drop a spot of solder over the broken pin so that it is "connected" to the case.  Then you connect the negative wire from the driver to the case pin on the diode.  The case pin gives the negative connection to the driver and the solder gives the negative connection to the diode.  The positive pin must be connected to the positive wire from the driver as a normal one would.

Peace,
dave

P.S.  Maybe you can get your dad on here if this doesn't make sense to you
 
daguin said:
Either you or I need to re-read the above paying particular attention to where the word "negative" is being used.  Which pin is broken now, the positive or the negative?

I was under the impression that we were talking about the negative pin being broken from the beginning of our exchange.  EVERYTHING you have written above, and I worked from, is assuming that the negative pin is the one that is broken.  You said the first one that broke was the positive pin and your dad fixed it.  You asked about the now broken negative pin.

With a violet diode, if the NEGATIVE pin is broken off, you just drop a spot of solder over the broken pin so that it is "connected" to the case.  Then you connect the negative wire from the driver to the case pin on the diode.  The case pin gives the negative connection to the driver and the solder gives the negative connection to the diode.  The positive pin must be connected to the positive wire from the driver as a normal one would.

Peace,
dave

P.S.  Maybe you can get your dad on here if this doesn't make sense to you
Click to expand...

This makes sense to me, I'm just not explaining it right. The pin is not broken; the CONNECTION between the negative wire coming off the Flexdrive and the negative diode pin is broken.

I would take a picture, but I don't have my camera right now. The two wires coming off the diode...the negative one is disconnected from the negative pin.

My dad has just left for a week for his job. I didn't know about this until earlier tonight.

-Mark
 
rocketparrotlet said:
This makes sense to me, I'm just not explaining it right.  The pin is not broken; the CONNECTION between the negative wire coming off the Flexdrive and the negative diode pin is broken.  
I would take a picture, but I don't have my camera right now.  The two wires coming off the diode...the negative one is disconnected from the negative pin.  
My dad has just left for a week for his job.  I didn't know about this until earlier tonight.  
-Mark
Click to expand...


So where is the wire broken or not connected?

Is it that the negative pin is intact on the diode. The wire is still connected to the pin. The driver is still OK. However, the wire is not connected to the driver?
If those are the conditions this is still an easy fix.
If that is the case, just re-solder the wire to the negative contact hole on the driver. You may have to strip a bit of the plastic back on the wire to expose a bit more of the metal inside the wire.

If it is that the wire is no longer connected to the pin, but IS still connected to the driver, then you just re-solder the wire to the pin. If you don't know how to solder a wire onto a pin, we can help with that too.

Peace,
dave
 
daguin said:
If it is that the wire is no longer connected to the pin, but IS still connected to the driver, then you just re-solder the wire to the pin.  If you don't know how to solder a wire onto a pin, we can help with that too.

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

That's it. The problem is that we don't have clamps or a small soldering iron. I'm not able to do it myself, because I'm not good enough at soldering yet. My dad can do it, it's just hard, seeing as the soldering iron is as wide (or wider) than the diode.

The thing that makes it really hard is that touching the soldering iron to the diode for more than a second is dangerous for the diode, right? That's the challenge: getting a strong connection in under a second.

I understand the process, are there any special concerns I will need to know for this? I'm really partial to my diode. It happens to be both very strong and high wavelength, so I don't want to kill it.

-Mark
 
hevnsnt said:
Where do you live -- I might be able to find someone to help ya out

-bill
Click to expand...

Everett, WA. Thanks, but my dad's back now. We can get my laser fixed tomorrow (I hope)!

-Mark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top