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FrozenGate by Avery

Building a powerful red laser






Gofilord said:
Wait, what I should short is the batterys wires that go in the + & - of the driver right?
Click to expand...

What they mean by "short" is to touch the two output leads (the leads that the diode connects to) of the driver together for a few seconds BEFORE soldering the laser diode to them. You can do this with a small piece of wire by simply touching one end of it to the + side and the other end to the - side and keeping it there for a few seconds. Then remove the wire and solder to the diode to the driver.

Also, I advise using a heatsink with this setup at all times. I was crazy enough to test it without a heat sink and I could feel the module getting warm in my fingers even after it was on only for about 10-15 seconds. I recommend some sort of heat-sink, even for brief testing.
 
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Ok, that I understanded.
now, from the moment I solder the IN wires of the battery at the beggining they stay their uninterupted until I finish?
 
Yzer What about the test load information? I'v been waiting for a day while you said you where gone for a few hours
 
Gofilord said:
Yzer What about the test load information? I'v been waiting for a day while you said you where gone for a few hours
Click to expand...
I posted additional information and photos here last night. I hope this makes the test load and driver adjustment procedure easier to grasp.
 
OK thanks.
2 questions:
1. Do I need a resistor for the final laser even thogh I'm using a driver? or the driver acts as the resistor?
2. From the begginig of test load, when I solder the battery wires to the driver, do I have to touch them at all for the hole project?
 
1. No. The resistor is part of the test load. The test load is only used to adjust the driver and none of it is used in the finished laser.

2. If I understand your question, no. There is no need to short the IN + & - pads before connecting battery power.
 
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1. I asked if the resistor will be apart of the final laser, not about the test load.
2. LOL then you didn't understand my question. on the begining I connect batterys to the driver for the test load? Oh and on the pics you gave me, what is the part that looks like black tape (near the resistor)?
 
1. No, the resistor is not used for the final laser.
2. Yes. If you don't use a switch between the batteries and the driver then connect the batteries to the driver after you have made all of the other test connections first. The black tape on the resistor wire is a flag to remind me to connect that end of the test load to LD- on the driver.
 
In the test load it self, should I connect batteries to the driver? or just connect the driver to the test load with no power sorce?
 
The driver must be powered before you can adjust driver output.
 
So you say I should connect the driver to the batteries, then do the test load, then disconnect the driver from the batteies, short the LD+ and LD-, then solder the laser diode, and then reconnect the same batterys?
 
1. Connect the test load to driver LD + & -.
2. Connect the DMM to the test load across the resistor.
3. Turn on the DMM and set it to mV.
4. Connect the batteries to the driver and turn the battery power switch ON if you use one. No need for a battery switch while making tests, actually.
5. Adjust the pot on the driver to get the value you want on the DMM.
6. Disconnect the batteries.
7. Disconnect the test load.
8. Disconnect the DMM from the test load.
9. Turn off the DMM.
10. Discharge the driver by shorting LD + & -.
11. Solder the laser diode to the driver.
 
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OK great.
now wich host should I put it in?
I dont think that there is a host that can handle 4*AAA's...
 
You could use a host that uses 2 AAA's and just get yourself some 10440's
 
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