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FrozenGate by Avery

Blu-Ray Writer Harvest - Success!

hi gazoo, can i ask you something ? do you have an idea what driver did they use on the pen style bluray selling on ebay, leukoplast have it but he didnt know yet why its running using only 2pcs of 3.6v AAA size battery on it, have an idea?
 





hey bluefusion do you have schematic diagram and values of every parts so i can to build one too? if you dont mind... :) please include the power supply, thanks.
 
wow nice job Jay! *tries to find $350 or whatever it is for the 6X Blu-ray burner*
 
adgmeijin said:
hey bluefusion do you have schematic diagram and values of every parts so i can to build one too? if you dont mind... :) please include the power supply, thanks.

I sure can but I'll have to make it up on PC as I only have it on paper. Email me cgeeky@gmail.com and I'll send it to your email when it's done.
 
clwatkins10 said:
awesome, two thumbs up 8-)

Thanks cl...

Things said:
wow nice job Jay! *tries to find $350 or whatever it is for the 6X Blu-ray burner*

Thanks for that complement Things...I am of the same mind as you. In wanting to get the 6 X drive. My 63mW blu-ray is 'oh so sweet' in a handheld laser. But, could you imagine 90mW's to 100mW's in a handheld? I'm going to do it!...
Jay
 
Hi All - I've been lurking here and have learned a lot, thanks!  I harvested and built a Blu-Ray laser from a PS3 sled, with a primary purpose in mind - fluorescent minerals.  It works like a charm.  The violet diode puts out 405nm but that's close enough to longwave UV (350nm to 400nm) that it will make many rocks glow (my hobby).  The intent is to use this in the field for daytime collecting instead of waiting till nighttime darkenss and using fluoresent mercury bulbs.  I took some pics of the result as a good example of what to use these things for and posted them on my web ("minershop.com/blue-dot250.jpg" and "minershop.com/orange-dot250.jpg") if anyone is interested (can't upload pics here; apparently need special permissions).  But the result is fantastic.  The laser fluoresces the rock brightly on one spot, and is simply blue/violet on other non-fluorescent spots (2 pics) - exactly what I need.  The pics were taken in normal ambient lighting with a flash (normally you must do a time exposure, in the dark) - this is remarkable for the fluorescent mineral hobby!

I have two questions if someone would be so kind to help (I have no laser experience, just electronics):  For my prototype I simply hooked up a current limit resistor (30 ohms, 6v power) and a pot.  Adjusted it until the diode started "lasing".  From what I read, the operating current is quite variable.  I'm guessing that pumping more current in won't result in much added brightness, and the lowest current setting is probably the best?  (I don't visually see any significant difference).

2nd question - am considering the LX 6x burner as a source for a higher power diode (100mw?).  But I'm really not sure if it's needed.  Since I can't see a visible change in the PS3 diode when I crank up the current, will the higher power diode add brightness? (sounds like I'm asking a dumb question now that I read it, but anyway....)

TIA
Mark
 
For the PS3 diodes, you want to stay below 40mA's current if you want it to last. I have a 43mW 405nm blu-ray, as well as a PS3 blu-ray running at 16mW's. Yes, it is much brighter at more power. Here is a picture for a comparison between the two:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202396141/75#76
Visually, you can't see the PS3 beam outside at night (normal city light conditions) But at 43mW's, you can point the beam into the sky, and see the beam reaching into the sky!
Hemlock Mike and drlava harvested that 6 X drive and showed how the diode can be ran at twice the power of my 2 X diode. I am going to build that one next. I expect to get at least 90mW's with the LG GGW-H20L diode...
Jay
 
Neat pics! What really shows off the difference in intensity is the pic where you moved the camera - the two "trails" clearly show a different intensity. When the beam just sits idle it saturates the camera and it's hard to tell a difference.

So - sounds like I should settle in on a current about 10ma above the present "lasing" point - just to be safe.

I think I'll try the higher power setup in a seperate unit. Perhaps that will allow me to defocus the beam and get a wider "dot" - much more useful in my application. I bet there's a standard housing with a focusing ring allowing field focus adjustments in the stuff you guys use - I'll have to check around....

Thanks for the help
Mark
 
Pirateo40 said:
I have two questions if someone would be so kind to help (I have no laser experience, just electronics):  For my prototype I simply hooked up a current limit resistor (30 ohms, 6v power) and a pot.  Adjusted it until the diode started "lasing".  From what I read, the operating current is quite variable.  I'm guessing that pumping more current in won't result in much added brightness, and the lowest current setting is probably the best?  (I don't visually see any significant difference).

2nd question - am considering the LX 6x burner as a source for a higher power diode (100mw?).  But I'm really not sure if it's needed.  Since I can't see a visible change in the PS3 diode when I crank up the current, will the higher power diode add brightness? (sounds like I'm asking a dumb question now that I read it, but anyway....)

TIA
Mark


Dang Dude!
      :o
                (Welcome to the Forum!)  :)

I can not believe that the didoe still outputs anything the way you are running it.  ::)

The BR diode is VERY current sensative, (as well as voltage) thus the reason we make a current regulating circuit to drive them.

If I recall correctly, the BR thresholds at 35ma-ish and is generally is only stable a few ma's above that point, like 38ma's, and at 4.5-ish volts.
Anything above 40ma's and 5 volts should spell instant death or extremely reduced live.  :'(

Running at 38ma's should net you around 5-7mw output.
Anything above this within reason still causes a death rate of 1mw per hour of use, more if driving even harder.

You need a constant current driver on there!  
                   ;D    ;D    ;D

As for the 6x diode, yes, it can run up well into the 100mw ouput range, but only with proper circuitry and cooling.  ;)

There are plenty of guides and personal builds around here to make just about any kind of laser in any configeration.

You say you have been lurking, please lurk some more!
                                 ::)    :-?    8-)

       You can find everything you need to know.
Start at the sticky'd lists in experiments/modifications.
                    (Threads of interest)
                          [smiley=smiley_up.gif]  [smiley=happy.gif]  [smiley=smiley_up.gif]

Welcome again to the Forum!

         Best Regards,
           Joenobody
                Joe

                 [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

.
 
LOL! The way I'm running it is just for testing right now. Trying to figure out the best setup. The PS is a battery (no spiking) and a pot to adjust just to the point where the diode is lasing. I have no intention of driving it with various battery charge states, etc - am building a constant current driver. Just wanted to see if my initial concept was correct (fluorescent rocks would glow). And wanted some input on visible power for fluorescent applications, difference between the higher power diodes etc, not burning matches.... ;) Correct me if I'm wrong, but 35ma is about the right power - and the battery supplies constant current for quite a while at that rate (NiMH 5AH batteries) - so no problem in the short term?

Regards
Mark
 
Pirateo40 said:
LOL!  The way I'm running it is just for testing right now.  Trying to figure out the best setup.  The PS is a battery (no spiking) and a pot to adjust just to the point where the diode is lasing.  I have no intention of driving it with various battery charge states, etc  - am building a constant current driver.  Just wanted to see if my initial concept was correct (fluorescent rocks would glow).  And wanted some input on visible power for fluorescent applications, difference between the higher power diodes etc, not burning matches....  ;)  Correct me if I'm wrong, but 35ma is about the right power - and the battery supplies constant current for quite a while at that rate (NiMH 5AH batteries) - so no problem in the short term?

Regards
Mark

Each diode is just a little different. I am getting 16mW's out of my PS3 diode @ 38mA's. But yes, 38mA's is where you want to be with the PS3 diodes...usually. In case you didn't see this thread:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202168096/0
Take a read through it. For a handheld host, with an adjustable driver. I found a really nice set up...
Jay
 
this maybe the answer for the BLUray burner LD connection, open your correction and suggestion, thanks.
 

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Did you find that diagram somewhere? Or, did you make it yourself? If you found it, where did you get it?
Jay
 
jay, actually i found it in some of my search about 405nm LD, that one was came from the datasheet of sanyo, and sharp, pin1 was + , pin3 was -, and pin2 was actualy isolated no connection at all it act as the diode base,so its ok if you connect pin2 direct to your DX or other host body.
 
adgmeijin said:
jay, actually i found it in some of my search about 405nm LD, that one was came from the datasheet of sanyo, and sharp, pin1 was +  , pin3 was -, and pin2 was actualy isolated no connection at all it act as the diode base,so its ok if you connect pin2 direct to your DX or other host body.

Well...I already connected the thing up a while ago. I figured that it was reasonable, because the LD case was grounded in its DVD environment. But that's a good find there! Please post the link if you still have it...
Jay
 





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