Advice needed for my build

[ztugdriver]

Hello everyone, I am starting my first build of a laser and I could use some advice. I have spent countless hours digging thru the internet trying to grasp the fundamentals of laser building. So much in fact my wife sis almost pissed. Today I started my build and I came across some questions I couldn't find the answers to. So far I have built a LM317 DDL driver from the helpful threads here and have tested its output to 250ma and 3.12v. My power source is 2-18650 batteries in series for a total of 7.2-7.4v, Im using these because I have a ton of them. My LD came from a Plextor 760A 18x DVD RW. I have not found the right host or prefabbed driver yet so everything is still on my bread board. I fired it up after testing and the bright red light was beautiful. However I only ran it for a few seconds (well more like 30 seconds) because the voltage of 3.12v seems a bit high from what I have read. I didnt want to fry it on my first go. Most of my work has been based off tutorials like ones from rog8811 and Sams Laser Faq I have just reached a point where I need some suggestions. Now for my questions.

1. Is there anyone who can direct me to or knows the the specs for my diode from the DVD drive specs above. It is a short closed can with three pins. Id like to know the max voltage to run along with the current. Suggestions would be awesome.

2. If I run it with the current configuration in your opinion will I have a lasting laser or is it being over driven.

3. Is it possible to burn matches and other things for novelty purposes with this setup or do I need to step it up a notch. (setup meaning 2x18650, homemade DDL driver, Aixiz glass lens, copper LD module).

I hope this post doesn't open up some old wounds for someone. I swear I have looked high and low but I could not find the info. I have come pretty far for someone new to lasers I just need that little push in the right directions or someone to tell me I'm doing right or I'm way off. I know I could just go buy a pre made laser to burn stuff but I'm the type of guy who wants to know how stuff works and to build it my self. Ive recently been messing around with LED lights and have made some automotive interior lights from scratch including designing and printing PCBs on my printer and soldering SMDs to the boards. All that being said I am jack of all trades and master of none. Any advice would greatly be appreciated.

Mahalo

 

[ztugdriver]

Nobody has any input? I thought I would at least get scolded for asking a dumb question that has been answered somewhere else.

 

[hakzaw1]

Could be that only a few saw this thread--
Nice to see you here-- perhaps you should think about placing a short intro thread in our welcome section- fo an idea of what to include you should read some intros from others-- Some of what you put in the OP would be good. Also it can be important to get the best advice on some questions (not yours in this case)to place in your profile page what country you reside in. -- As LPF has members almost everywhere you could find an experienced member close enough to get hands-on help.

from your description of what you have done so far
in 1) I did not like to hear that your ran your diode fo 30 seconds w/o a proper Heat-sink or even an AixiZ module--personally I would be leery about a 30 secong run even if my diode were pressed into a module but the module NOT in a good heatsink
Often diode will become LEDs if abused and not die completely. Some give niicks to theers like 'Zombie' a dead diode that still looks like a LED- 'Freaks' are diodes that have a higher than average output- more robust and able to run at higher currents that have in some cases killed the same diodes.
I think if you took a guess about the correct pin-out you got lucky this time-
Someone should be able to find the pin-out for this one once the spec sheet is located. it will also give a range of approperate voltage and the recommended current needed--

no2) you are correct AFAIK underdriven diodes dfo often run longer and of course cooler too

no3)- the power to burn cannot be increased by using more batteries- . The best lens does lay a role and one that gives the smallest dot would be better than onr with a larger dot of course. on some drivers excess power it turned into heat which can do damage to the driver-

If you can locate the spec sheet for that sled- from there you should get the maker of the diode and also from that the specs for the diode.
I believe if your diode is still good with the right set-up it would be a burning laser-
I would not be surprized to hear it makes 200mW or more.
safety glasses.goggles are god when burning- but for other timers like building in to a handheld host there is little chance of any harm as long as your are careful-
The glass AixiZ lens for red diodes will make a very slight difference- with the stock AixiZ acrylic lens it should burn with the glass MAYBE somewhat faster.

The 405 blu-ray diodes are better burners at a lower output- and they often make the smallest dot- concentrated for faster burning. ther are more dangerous than they appear and as out eyes do not 'see' a 405 as being bright our pupils dialate allowing more light to enter and if that is laser light it could be a bad thing.

Consider a JAD kit- one that has all your needs except the diode-and the sellers of these often at no additional cost will set the current on the driver they will sell you--SO while its admirible that you built your own driver === these are SO cheap it may make better sense to get a driver made for that diode- if buying a driver is too much for you then run away and run QUICK and do not look back because this hobby is the prime cause of 'empty wallet syndrome'.
you need to get your diode properly pressed into a heat sink or a module and put that in a heatsink- you should follow al ESD precautions- keep yur soldering iron also grounded and use heat sparingly allow things to cool to avoid overheating-

here are some links
If you are serious go for the five pack of blank modules-(cheaper)
the wired plug allows you to connect w/o soldering at all on the pins.

the 'socket' does the same-- read al you can find here about pressing cans- you will need either a pressing tool or something thaty will do the job- like a prt from ther brake lever on a bike- a valve cap from atire- ==the metal kind with the notched top that can be used to remove the valve inside the stem- or a small socket which a the pins to fit inside while pressing the can into its holder these can are extemely soft and bend easily pressing to far or not far enough is not good- you are supposed to solder wire to the pins AFTER the can has been pressed- and you did not know that ---

THE Store (to order from)

www.aixiz.net


the 20mW green module
a new item- only needs a heatsink & host- alreay wired and the driver is embeded into the AixiZ module- this is a DI Diode OT a DPSS and will be cheaper in days top come.

515nm 20mW diode based Laser Module 12x30mm, AixiZ

the socket

Laser Diode Testing Socket TO-18, AixiZ

the wire (20 inch) mount for diodes no solder required ez swap out great for testing mass amount of diodes

3 pin long wire mount for laser diodes 20" length, AixiZ

AixiZ sells many drivers -- but it is up to you to find the one to use AixiZ cannot do this for you.. it is a parts house and advice is very limited-most who shop there know what they are doing and many learned by killing a few diodes and drivers-
it happens -dont let that ever get you down.

lots to read- you may need diff search terms- there are tutorials on pressing cans-
and more.

I would google your sled and search for the makers site get the spec sheet and go from there

..... there are MANY diodes out there and yours could be one that very few have ever used-for reds the most common medium power are LOC and LCC- these have become very cheap- there is less demand for them but tons of info--sticking to you diode and homemade driver may not be in your best interests BUT you will learn a lot by trying--

GOOD LUCK

hak
AixiZ gnome

 

[Bionic-Badger]

I remember when I first soldered together a laser like that... it was beautiful for some seconds and then died. Mine died because I didn't have sufficient heat-sinking. I would try again with a host or at least a labby heatsink. You can get a heatsink off ebay from Techhood.