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FrozenGate by Avery

About Gball diode

Well, in the mean time, I still want a high power 465-470 nm laser diode, those new ones don't appear capable of 4.5 to 5 watts like the 07E could do, but at 2.5+ isn't bad at all.
 





Well, in the mean time, I still want a high power 465-470 nm laser diode, those new ones don't appear capable of 4.5 to 5 watts like the 07E could do, but at 2.5+ isn't bad at all.

don't mistake the recommended power on the datasheets with the power that we tend to overdrive our diodes.
the nubm07 datasheet states 2.9w wich is unreal on our runs :beer:

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Wow, they actually used the real power level instead of what it can do! Good news.
 
You have a few options;
1. DTR N465
2. 07E
3. Nichia 465 2.6W.

My feeling is DTR's N465 is an 07E with a can, and the Nichia465 2.6W is from the same family as the NDB7k75, but 465-470nm :drool:
 
You have a few options;
1. DTR N465
2. 07E
3. Nichia 465 2.6W.

My feeling is DTR's N465 is an 07E with a can, and the Nichia465 2.6W is from the same family as the NDB7k75, but 465-470nm :drool:

i don't really know for the n465 but i bet that the "2.6w" diode states on the datasheet is very simillar to the nubm07 and it can be pushed to at least 4w.
nubm07 states 2.3A typical current and the "nich1@ 2.6w" states 2A so not that big difference
 
i don't really know for the n465 but i bet that the "2.6w" diode states on the datasheet is very simillar to the nubm07 and it can be pushed to at least 4w.
nubm07 states 2.3A typical current and the "nich1@ 2.6w" states 2A so not that big difference

I thought about getting that 2.6W diode but the 2.6A absolute maximum had me a little concerned. At 2A it is rated to output 2.6W, practically the same as what the NUBM07E outputs at 2A.. however the 07E has an absolute maximum current figure of 3.5A so in theory it should be capable of higher output unless Ni{hia revised their rating standards, which seems unlikely.

I wish they wouldn't cut the top of the datasheet off and hide the name of the diode like they do, it makes me suspect the datasheet could possibly be a fake, though if it was a fake it seems like they likely would have gone with higher figures for the output and current maximums.. still would just be nice to have it's model # for a number of reasons.
 
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I thought about getting that 2.6W diode but the 2.6A absolute maximum had me a little concerned. At 2A it is rated to output 2.6W, practically the same as what the NUBM07E outputs at 2A.. however the 07E has an absolute maximum current figure of 3.5A so in theory it should be capable of higher output unless Ni{hia revised their rating standards, which seems unlikely.

thats right but the statings on datasheets are for X target hours lifespan,on the projectors case they need a very durable and long lifespan on the diodes thats why we don't have serious problems when we overdrive them,lets say the nubm07 is stated for 3.5A for 20000hours,if we run at 4.6A and get a life for 100hous its still plenty of hours in our hobby. nubm07 can be pushed up to 5w so this new diode could hit 4w overdriven considering the datasheet,i guess we will not find till someone test it :)
 
It is a well known fact that we push LDs (any LDs)
way past their actual ratings to get higher power
outputs.... That.. at a cost of LD lifetime...
It's been that way since I first got here.

Jerry
 
I run my nubm07e at 3A, most of all diodes i have in collection i run at lower Amp
- A 470nm diode
, :pop:
 
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I always run my NUBM07 diodes at 3.5 amps and with the GBall/can removed they just don't last.

I have seen something odd with the 07 diodes, that is missing bars in the raw output seen on a wall without a lens, that is black lines amid the illumined bars.

The 07 may have a unique issue, my 1st nubm07 was a good one, but it eventually failed too.

Maybe they are better now? I have read about people pushing them pretty hard, too bad they are also more expensive than other GBalls.
 
I always run my NUBM07 diodes at 3.5 amps and with the GBall/can removed they just don't last.

I have seen something odd with the 07 diodes, that is missing bars in the raw output seen on a wall without a lens, that is black lines amid the illumined bars.

The 07 may have a unique issue, my 1st nubm07 was a good one, but it eventually failed too.

Maybe they are better now? I have read about people pushing them pretty hard, too bad they are also more expensive than other GBalls.

you mean there are missing bars after they failed or when are still new?a photo would be great :tinfoil:
 
While a couple different 07 diodes were still working I had noticed missing bars, I know other people have said the same thing.

I do have 1 nubm07 that's lose as I removed it from the host I had it in, I may power it up and see if it exhibits the missing bars and snap a pic, also maybe someone else has a pic of this, I did not take a pic of it doing this before, also I had one that I bought from China that had missing bars and it recovered, for a while anyway.

-----EDIT-----

Here it is, I put it in a test bed heat sink and powered it up, you can see the missing bars/blank lines.

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While a couple different 07 diodes were still working I had noticed missing bars, I know other people have said the same thing.

I do have 1 nubm07 that's lose as I removed it from the host I had it in, I may power it up and see if it exhibits the missing bars and snap a pic, also maybe someone else has a pic of this, I did not take a pic of it doing this before, also I had one that I bought from China that had missing bars and it recovered, for a while anyway.

-----EDIT-----

Here it is, I put it in a test bed heat sink and powered it up, you can see the missing bars/blank lines.

59432d1521894846-about-gball-diode-sany2276.jpg


59433d1521894846-about-gball-diode-sany2288.jpg


i grabbed my nubm07 and fired it on my psu and looks all the lines are full,one photo at 1,5A and the other one at 3.7A.the problem with the china source diodes is that they extract those with heat from the banks to melt the solder and this could be lead to a problems.
note,my diode is not a decaned,i used a g2 in front of gball to get backward on the raw output

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edit:sorry for the cut light at the bottom,it happend from the heatsink im using
edit 2:the diode i got is very inefficient though as past 4A doesnt gain anything and at 4.5A is already on the foldback zone.
 

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don't mistake the recommended power on the datasheets with the power that we tend to overdrive our diodes.
the nubm07 datasheet states 2.9w wich is unreal on our runs :beer:

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I wouldn't buy this spec sheet as Nichi@ is famous for not releasing these and the Chinese are famous for patching ones together to make them look legitimate. This data sheet is not likely an OEM one.
 
Interesting let me check on my diode if i have the bars :friend:
Edit:
I just checked and i did the build like 3y ago and i never use the laser only for pictures and yes RedCowboy is correct the are some lines i have 2
makes me thing to resell it know!!
 
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I always run my NUBM07 diodes at 3.5 amps and with the GBall/can removed they just don't last.

I have seen something odd with the 07 diodes, that is missing bars in the raw output seen on a wall without a lens, that is black lines amid the illumined bars.

The 07 may have a unique issue, my 1st nubm07 was a good one, but it eventually failed too.

Maybe they are better now? I have read about people pushing them pretty hard, too bad they are also more expensive than other GBalls.

My N465 has had that issue since the very first time it was turned on. It has never been run above 3.45A. I chocked it up to that diode likely having an aftermarket can installed and figured it was damage from welding on the can, though I guess it's encouraging if anything that it looks like it wasn't the can installation that causes that. I wonder if that happens on 07's that still have the lens intact?

Edit- I just saw that Chris posted that his does not have lines missing and has an intact Gball lens, though I guess we'll need more samples to see if it is related, as some have the can removed and also don't have that issue.
 
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