Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

650nm 300mW red laser diode question

C

ChrisNL

0
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
19
Points
0
Hi guys, i planned to get a 650nm 300mW red laser diode and want to know if i should buy a glass lens for my aixiz lasermodule, or would the acrylic lens just do fine with it?

Also bought a micro flexdrive V5 for the diode. When i test it, must i have a testload to finetune the flexdriver, or can i just put an ampmeter between de diode's lead to read my values?

tnx in advance.
 
Last edited:





Glass lens from o-like.com or rayfoss.com

dont use a normal lens because it well melt and destroy your laser

if you want max power and a good beam go for jayrob's 650-g1 lens,

search jayrob in the search bar, click on the first post, look at what he has to offer and then clikc on his picture and send him a message regarding his lens if you want them but be warned their over 40 dollars so of your on a budget go with the olikes or the rayfoss ones

Pm me if you want any more info

and btw Welcome to LPF
 
I currently have a >280mw red laser and i use an acrylic lense and it is not melting. I do suggest getting a glass lense for added performance. I am going to be getting a glass lense for my laser soon, but at the moment the acyril lense lets me burn and focus, just like any other high power laser.

When i built mine i used a multi meter and i put the LPC-815 laser diode to 416mA. Just be careful when adjusting the pot as it is very sensitive when you put the screwdrive on. If i was you i would just use a multi meter but i suppose a test load would be safer. If you where dealing with expensive diodes then i would suggest building a test load.

Good luck with the laser :)
 
tnx thats nice to hear that u burn with the acrylic lens, i guess i have no surprises afterwards :D. A glass lens is always better, i will consider it ;)

According to the Flexdrive V5 manual, i'll solder a bridge so that the output is somewhere between 100-312mA, am i correct?
 
if you dont have proper heatsinking then set it at about something like 390-400ma max but if sufficient heatsinking is provided you can run it at 420ma which will get you over 300mw with a jayrob 650-g1 lens, you will also probably get about 300mw with a normal Glass anti reflective lens but if you have the money to spare go with the 650 g1,

also where are you getting the flexdrive from? if straight from dr.lava he can set your diode accurately to your preferred ma

if you have your parts in take a few pics and if not just post the links in and i will have a look at them.

if you need any help feel free to ask me anything :)

****EDIT: What diode will you be using, the specs im giving you are for a lpc-815 diode, i thought i picked that up somewhere but it seems im just a bit tired :)****
 
Last edited:
I already have the flexdrive so that's not an option, maybe for the second one on short notice.
As far for the diode, i can't tell u for sure. What i do know is that it is a kipkay suitable from itechlasers, the 650nm 300mw.

also bought a couple of flashlights for like 2 euro's (3 dollars) each, and made custom heatsinks for it of aluminum, also one of copper, all for future use.
They all run on 3AAA's. i can tell you they give a hell of a light, hope to replace it with a hell of a laserlight soon :D

Foto-FNJN3DFZ.jpg


Foto-7OYW8JXJ.jpg


Foto-QTW3FFGL.jpg



All now is waiting on the diode, and then begin the assembly.
 
Aixiz acrylic lens will do just fine. No risk melting at a power of 300 mW. I think the threshold where it starts melting is ~600mW. Not sure though, but you can use it on lasers below 400 mW
 
I think i have to agree with you SilverShot, but i would recommend getting a glass lense, so you can get true burning abilities. Just be careful, if you buy an expensive lense, don't burn to close to the lense, it gets smoke and stick black substance on and this can damage the diode.
 
Ok, so it's no problem. Just for the 1.5-2W 450nm diode as next project i will get one :)

about tuning the flexdrive, is it ok to put a multimeter between the diode's lead to read and set my mA?
 
ChrisNL said:
Ok, so it's no problem. Just for the 1.5-2W 450nm diode as next project i will get one :)

about tuning the flexdrive, is it ok to put a multimeter between the diode's lead to read and set my mA?
Click to expand...

No. That could damage the diode. Use a test load.
 
Silvershot said:
No. That could damage the diode. Use a test load.
Click to expand...

Can i build my own? Because i see more then one type testload, also selfmade by some people.

Always need that 1 Ohm resistor i see, but how do i know if i set de flexdrive @ 300mA, the current is the same when i put on the diode? (sory i'm new with this)
 
Silvershot, cant you just connect the multimeter straight to the driver and tune it with the pot to your preferred ma and then short the driver and solder the leads on?

Btw nice housing Chris, how did you drill those out?, also where did you find the meaterils, ive been looking everywhere but i cant find a SOLID peice of aluminum or copper :(
 
@LaZerZ:
you'd think so, and quite rightfully. Problem is:
1. If you slip with the Multimeter leads and break contact while the driver is being
powered, the Flexdrive can very easily be damaged, being powered without a load on it.
2. Even if you make sure that contact is good all the time (solder the DMMs probes to the driver :D:D),
the DMM doesn't simulate the voltage drop of the real diode, and so you end up
measuring a current that is different from what it will be once the diode is connected.
Effectively, your measurement will be inaccurate, you will have set up the driver with a "wrong" current.

The difference might not be much, but when you try to push the diode to it's very edge,
it could mean the difference between a happy diode and a dead diode.;)
 
Last edited:
K thanks for sorting that out :D +1 for u

where can you get a cheap test load from? and also how do you use them?
 
LaZeRz said:
Silvershot, cant you just connect the multimeter straight to the driver and tune it with the pot to your preferred ma and then short the driver and solder the leads on?

Btw nice housing Chris, how did you drill those out?, also where did you find the meaterils, ive been looking everywhere but i cant find a SOLID peice of aluminum or copper :(
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment.

Well, at work i have some aluminum pulleys for different type's sawmachines, and fortunately we have some with exact 12mm holes in the center. So just get some off on the milling machine, and there u have your heatsink :)

Maybe at a local machine store nearby the have the same sort of pulleys with already 12mm holes in the center.

yycd$091519733(240).jpg


That looks like the one i used for this project. As far for the copper heatsink, i just tapped one out of an stock Intel cooler. but then u have only 24mm diameter
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top