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501B Pill Question

Ricker

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Hey everyone, first thank you very much for taking time to view and/or reply to my silly little question.

I bought 10 501-B hosts from Mohrenberg, he didn't have any pills left, but directed me to these -->Pills here on Fasttech.com.<-- So I bought a bunch, finally got them yesterday.

Here's my silly questions below the pictures to help you understand what I'm asking. :beer:

20160220_221546_zpsagyup69l.jpg

The pill with Mr. Pyro's Contact Board.
20160220_221559_zpsts8bzpsl.jpg

So I would just push the tapered end in like so. ^ Correct?
20160220_221652_zpskikjiuqx.jpg

Then it would look like this, how would you secure the pill into the host? Thermal adhesive? But it has to make contact with the host for host negative right? Should I try pressing it in with some pliers so it really gets in there?

Thank you folks for your time! :)

Nate
 





Use the large flashlight spring or make a spacer, you could cut a piece of copper pipe.
 
Use the large flashlight spring or make a spacer, you could cut a piece of copper pipe.

When its pushed in it touches two 16340 batteries fine. Is that what you mean? The connection to the battery(ies)? Or to keep pressure on the pill down (spring between heatsink and the pill?)
 
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Spring between the back of the heat sink and the rim of the pill, looks like the large spring that comes on the FL modules would fit, or make a spacer to go between the heat sink and the pill to hold the pill in place when your top is screwed on.

You can cut a length of copper water pipe and split it so you can open it up in diameter to fit the lip of your pill and hold your pill in place pressed against the back of your heat sink.

I used a length of copper pipe in this BDR-209 skyray build to hold the spring board in place because the heat sink was too short even before I modified it.

SANY0342_zpsg9spm91m.jpg

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SANY0359_zps0uovv6cy.jpg
 
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Spring between the back of the heat sink and the rim of the pill, looks like the large spring that comes on the FL modules would fit, or make a spacer to go between the heat sink and the pill to hold the pill in place when your top is screwed on.

You can cut a length of copper water pipe and split it so you can open it up in diameter to fit the lip of your pill and hold your pill in place pressed against the back of your heat sink.

I used a length of copper pipe in this BDR-209 skyray build to hold the spring board in place because the heat sink was too short even before I modified it.
I see what you're saying now thank you very much I work on boilers so I have plenty of copper pieces laying around that I could just cut a little bit and it would fit perfect. I appreciate your help, RCB!!
 
Hi,
Rucker,
A little late for me buy what the hell this is what you want it to look like for it to work right.
When you buy the pill get the package that has a large spring a small contact spring and it will come with a reflector that you won't use. Oh buy the way if there sold out of the 501 pills the P60 package pills work the same and fit. i have about 25 sets for my 501B's and hosts..Here are a few pics for ya..

Rich:)
 

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Holy smokes, I never knew what the spring that came with the package was for until this question lol. Never used one. Most of my heat-sinks push up against it to hold it tight but what I used the other day was a few layers of that thick tape that sticks to itself on the back of the heat-sink. Can't remember what it is called but it's thicker than electrical tape and you stretch it tight against itself around something to stop leaks. I don't like to use metal as that could possibly make an electrical connection from the host to the heat-sink if the paint rubs. I'm sure you have some. Just cut the layers you need to make it thick enough to put pressure against it. I always at least put a layer of some kind of tape on the back of the heat-sink to prevent a possible issue when I build these.
I have a bunch of those springs if you need a few so you don't have to wait to order any but the tape thing works great.
The way I put mine together is I push the heatsink and pill in place after already screwing the center piece to the next piece together aligning the pill with something long down the tube and then screw the top piece down being careful to make sure the sink doesn't move or barely moves. Then I can add the batteries and button and the pill won't move.
I alays thought that spring was just some extra part you needed for the flashlight as I've never seen a 501b light before. In my defense my way works well too;)
 
Hi P,
That's a great approach to the issue i never would have though of it.
Now that's modification when you don't have awesome Pal. If i have an anodized sink like Matt's i polish the bottom contact area to bare AL and the top of the battery tube where the sink meets the host complete contact. Throw in a 2W+ and your done, i like the way yours works out ,like you said other ways to complete a build nice Buddy.

Hi Ricker,
I posted a 501B build put together tonight gives you an idea in the blue laser section

Rich:)
 
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Thanks for the link Ricker!
I bought some of these 501B hosts too, so I will be getting some of these pills as well.
I was just about to start cutting down some aluminum, in an attempt to make my own. But at $2 a piece for these pills, not worth my time. :yh:
 
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Thanks for the link Ricker!
I bought some of these 501B hosts too, so I will be getting some of these pills as well.
I was just about to start cutting down some aluminum, in an attempt to make my own. But at $2 a piece for these pills, not worth my time. :yh:

Hi, Christie,
I posted a 501b build in the Blue laser section check it out if you want some detailed pics

Rich:)
 





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