wizard
0
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2013
- Messages
- 12
- Points
- 0
OK, I admit it, the primary reason I built this laser was to see just how small I could make a host, and still have good power output. With that in mind, I started looking for small batteries with high power output, and decided that one good choice would be Li-Ion camera batteries. As with my first build, I chose to machine my host from a solid block of 6061 Aluminum stock. As can be seen in this first picture, the final host build is nearly the same size as the little metal mints box; actual measuments are: 3" x 1.5" x 0.75" (76.2 x 38 x 19 mm).
The top of the host has two switchs (for safety); the aluminum slide switch on the far right doubles as a battery power switch and a shutter, while the little red push button momemtary is the primary on-off.
The following two pics show the front of the host. The first pic shows the shutter closed, and second pic shows the shutter open. Since my planned use calls for me to carry the host around in a pocket, I wanted the shutter as a failsafe way to block the laser from first burning a hole into a pocket and then moving quickly into my flesh.
I started out with a drilled round hole in the shutter cover plate, but noticed that my beam was actualy much wider and flatter than I thought it would be, so I milled out a slot to accommodate the shape of the beam.
Removing a single 2-56 screw allows the cover to be removed, providing access to the batteries and all the other components. I mounted the X-drive board in the top left corner of the box, where the design wedges the main IC chip tightly against the side of the alumunium box which acts as a large heat sink.
With the two batteries removed you can see how the electrical conections to the batteries are made using "pogo pins" (salvaged from an old battery charger I no longer used). A good deal of machining effort went into fabricating the white plastic block (made of Delrin) which holds the pogo pins, both switches & the X-drive board. The plastic block is machined to be a snug fit into the aluminium box and once the lid is screwed into place, it's held firmly in place without the need of any additional screws.
Below is a view of the front of the white plastic block; the two parallel wires on the front of the block are short sections from a paper clip and act as the electrical contacts for the slide switch which is lying outside the box to the far right. The LD assembly is held in place with a single 4-40 set screw. I purchase the LD-Lens-Driver assembly (G-2-LFL) from DTR which simply worked great right out of the box.
The two pics below show how one of the paper-clip terminals is bent up and is soldered to the negative side pogo pin for the top battery.
Finally, here it is in operation.
I will attempt to anodize the aluminum parts in the near future, but I haven't quite perfected my technique yet...so for now, I hope you enjoy this unique design in it's bare aluminum appearance.
The top of the host has two switchs (for safety); the aluminum slide switch on the far right doubles as a battery power switch and a shutter, while the little red push button momemtary is the primary on-off.
The following two pics show the front of the host. The first pic shows the shutter closed, and second pic shows the shutter open. Since my planned use calls for me to carry the host around in a pocket, I wanted the shutter as a failsafe way to block the laser from first burning a hole into a pocket and then moving quickly into my flesh.
I started out with a drilled round hole in the shutter cover plate, but noticed that my beam was actualy much wider and flatter than I thought it would be, so I milled out a slot to accommodate the shape of the beam.
Removing a single 2-56 screw allows the cover to be removed, providing access to the batteries and all the other components. I mounted the X-drive board in the top left corner of the box, where the design wedges the main IC chip tightly against the side of the alumunium box which acts as a large heat sink.
With the two batteries removed you can see how the electrical conections to the batteries are made using "pogo pins" (salvaged from an old battery charger I no longer used). A good deal of machining effort went into fabricating the white plastic block (made of Delrin) which holds the pogo pins, both switches & the X-drive board. The plastic block is machined to be a snug fit into the aluminium box and once the lid is screwed into place, it's held firmly in place without the need of any additional screws.
Below is a view of the front of the white plastic block; the two parallel wires on the front of the block are short sections from a paper clip and act as the electrical contacts for the slide switch which is lying outside the box to the far right. The LD assembly is held in place with a single 4-40 set screw. I purchase the LD-Lens-Driver assembly (G-2-LFL) from DTR which simply worked great right out of the box.
The two pics below show how one of the paper-clip terminals is bent up and is soldered to the negative side pogo pin for the top battery.
Finally, here it is in operation.
I will attempt to anodize the aluminum parts in the near future, but I haven't quite perfected my technique yet...so for now, I hope you enjoy this unique design in it's bare aluminum appearance.
Last edited:
