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FrozenGate by Avery

30mw Green Module dead on arrival...

r1Bro

r1Bro

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Mar 5, 2012
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So I ordered a 30mw 532nm module from a US seller on Ebay, and like an idiot they shipped it in a plain envelope (not even a bubble mailer) with NO packing materials at all, from California to North Carolina.

I am assuming it is dead because of its painful trip here, I am wondering if it could be something simple that could be fixed? Or did it probably actually kill the internals of the diode? Is there a way to test it to find out?

I really need this by Christmas and the seller isn't responding to me. If anyone can help, or even sell me a module that would be great!!
 





Well, you could try powering it. That'd be a darn good way to test if its working.
 
Post a link to what you bought. I have never seen a 532 module without a driver.
 
Are you powering it with 3-4 V source? One lithium ion battery should do well.

Is it drawing any current? If so, how much? If you don't know how to measure that, let me know.

If it is drawing current, point it at a white print paper and use phone's camera to look at it. If camera is seeing a pink dot while you are not seeing anything, the diode is emitting IR but crystals have gone misaligned. That cannot be fixed.

If it's nicely drawing current, leave it running for a few seconds. Maybe the temperature shift makes it lase.

Report back with results.
 
Eudaimonium said:
Are you powering it with 3-4 V source? One lithium ion battery should do well.

Is it drawing any current? If so, how much? If you don't know how to measure that, let me know.

If it is drawing current, point it at a white print paper and use phone's camera to look at it. If camera is seeing a pink dot while you are not seeing anything, the diode is emitting IR but crystals have gone misaligned. That cannot be fixed.

If it's nicely drawing current, leave it running for a few seconds. Maybe the temperature shift makes it lase.

Report back with results.
Click to expand...

So I tested the amps it was pulling 0.03 amps on my meter, the laser has a screw POT on it I just touched the pot with a screwdriver (didn't even turn it) and the amps jumped to 0.16 amps and the laser started to barely shine green. So I think the POT may be bad or have a loose connection with the board? What should the meter be reading? Maybe I can try adjusting the POT some more to what it should be drawing?

EDIT: I moved up the current so the volt meter reads 0.34 amps and the beam looks pretty nice! If I am not mistaking that's about 340ma which seems about right for a 532nm 30mw module? Seems like a nice power as to not kill the module?
 
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I've found that the most output with these modules comes at .43 but it's your risk. The ones that I have purchased usually come set between .25 and .35. Should not try and set it while it is on unless you have a non-conductive screwdriver and even then it's better to just adjust with no power and then check. Very small adjustments.
 
Pman said:
I've found that the most output with these modules comes at .43 but it's your risk. The ones that I have purchased usually come set between .25 and .35. Should not try and set it while it is on unless you have a non-conductive screwdriver and even then it's better to just adjust with no power and then check. Very small adjustments.
Click to expand...

To my eye the beam doesn't really seem much brighter at what it is set at now .34 then my 5mw 532nm I sort of expected a more solid beam. Is there a big difference in the beam from say .34 and .43? How long did yours last at .43?
 
I honestly can't answer your questions even though it is extremely likely that I have more pens and modules like this than anyone here. Those 5mW pens and these 30mw modules can be anywhere from what they are rated to less or more likely way more. It's a crap shoot what you get. Your pen could easily be more powerful than that module regardless of the sticker. I will say that I've gotten pretty good at figuring out which 532nm is brighter when lasing side by side although this isn't very scientific due to IR and mode hopping issues. Once you get above 100mW it gets too hard to tell small differences apart especially because they aren't all focused exactly the same.
What I have found with 532nm modules is that setting them to .43A gives the highest output on average from messing with over a 100 of them. As far as longevity it may seem strange but I can't answer that because once I build with them they sit in cases. I do however have a couple that I mess with when I need a laser "fix" and have never noticed any issue. Can say that I just went through all my units the other day and they all work.
I don't shine any of my units for minutes at a time like some do so "on" cycle doesn't mean much to me compared with lots of members who are always looking for a long run time. I've never had one fail to turn on but I have messed a few up strictly from not paying attention and doing something stupid. They can be set higher than .43 but from what I've learned the output will likely start to suffer so the .43 is very close to how much they can handle. Never blew one immediately from trying to set it that high but have blown one from using a conductive screwdriver while setting. I use a variable DC power supply to do it. Check initial setting, release module switch, make adjustment, power it for a moment to check setting etc...
After I set it I then LPM it and label the bag it came in for peak mW so I know what I have when I actually go to use it in a build.
The only difference I've seen from buying a module up to 50mW instead of one rated 5mW is the inclusion of a pot for adjustment. If you can find a source for 5mW ones that also have a pot they are likely just as good. Fasttech sells the 3V and 5V ones and they are just as good as any I've seen out there. I believe they are out of the 5V ones at the moment (the ones I usually buy). The 3V and 5V ones are really the same except the 5V ones can handle a wider Voltage input (they start to "lase" at just as l;ow a voltage as the 3V ones and excess voltage is just wasted as heat from what I can tell because there's no difference between using 4 or 5V with them. Yes, the 3V ones can handle 4.2V to it but I don't know if it reduces it's life.
 
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