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FrozenGate by Avery

230mW open can in a 2AAA leadlight - stable.

And also, if im not mistaking, in the long run these will save you money because they drain the last bit of power from batts and give maximum efficiency Right?
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correct!


IgorT said:
What is the "enthusiast labor $4 board" btw?
Oh, and what are the exact dimensions of this thing? Can't find them in your sales thread or here.
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The board I was referring to was blue-fusion's ill-fated driver that he eventually decided wasn't worth his time to build for people. Instead of child labor, it's enthusiast labor ;)

The board in its factory form is 12x12mm. For pen installation this can be trimmed to 10x12mm as in the photo.
 





What is the maximum current this thing can deliver? I mean, would it be capable of driving a 0.5W IR pump at around 700-750mA or is 500mA the maximum?
 
With IR diodes, the voltage drop is so low (1.8-2V) that you can use a single drive transistor from 3V batteries and get decent efficiency without any fancy stuff like this.
Also, that is beyond the designed current range for these, but they could be stacked to reach up to 1A.
 
I am going to use two AMCs for my little project. I can adjust the current to be a little lower than 700mA, but not higher. And the crystals in these are funny sometimes. In some cases you can even get a higher average power with a slightly lower current. But one of the two i'm building works best at 730mA, which is why i was wondering about this possibility. On the other hand, using "fancy stuff like this" would be overkill for only 10 - 15mW more, so i guess i'll just stick to the AMCs.


I just remembered something else tho. If you were to power the SEPIC on without a load, it would try to reach the desired current but couldn't and would kill itself, unless there was a zener in reverse on the output. Is your driver protected against this? Or is it not an issue with your design?
 
IgorT said:
I just remembered something else tho. If you were to power the SEPIC on without a load, it would try to reach the desired current but couldn't and would kill itself, unless there was a zener in reverse on the output. Is your driver protected against this? Or is it not an issue with your design?
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It is an issue, and is covered in the user manual. crazy thing about current sources, eh!
 
drlava said:
crazy thing about current sources, eh!
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Well it's not really a con, it's just how they work.

I hope people read the manual first, instead of deciding to measure the no load voltage with a DMM, like many did with the 317... You know.. To see if it works.. ;)
 
yea, since I've been making similar little things, I'll have to add to the chorus, $20 each is a STEAL.

By the time you've got everything to play with these kinds of components you'll find you've invested well over $400, so it's either spend $400+ to make one or two, or buy from Dr. Lava for a lot less... and you won't find anything this good in any DX laser, thats for sure.

however, if you are an EE major, like myself, you might want to invest in all that equipment, it'll make you the uber-geek among the other EE's.
 
I'm a bit confused...so will 3v be sufficient for a blu ray? I wanna draw out quite a bit of power out of it. (I have a high powered hd dvd diode)
 
I can't find that laser (with the LED) on the leadlight site or at their resellers online, only at that jasperlasers sight. Jasperlasers has their logo on it and is extremely overpriced. Could you point me to a place to find one?
 
so sorry for the triple post, but the leadlight that I ordered came with a metal button instead of a rubber. Do you think I'll still be able to do this? The button is just more of a hassle to get off because you need to disassemble the entire laser to push it out. I'm just afraid that the lining up of the button will be hard with the driver board. Plus, the end of the laser doesnt have ridged edges like yours. It looks like you have to pry it out. Do you think I should go for it, or try to exchange it? Thanks.
 
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