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FrozenGate by Avery

2.6 watt 532nm beam shots

BobMc said:
Things just might work out that way. Things might be working out where I might be moving farther out in the desert. And if so, Beam Shots !!!! over Death Valley. :)
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That one doesn't have the 5VDC OEM power supply does it? That'd make life a little easier for "portable" operation. :D
 





The only thing that comes to mind. Rick Trent? But its the wrong laser were going on about. :confused:
 
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diachi said:
That one doesn't have the 5VDC OEM power supply does it? That'd make life a little easier for "portable" operation. :D
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I don't know how much voltage the power supply puts out. I know the control wire need 5volts D.C. to activate the beam. I wired up a 5volt D.C. Transformer the supply the current. Use a standard 1/8" plug so it makes it easy to start and stop.
 
diachi said:
That one doesn't have the 5VDC OEM power supply does it? That'd make life a little easier for "portable" operation. :D
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If it was a mains powered PSU built into the unit the actual diode / tec driver is usually 5V and 12V on larger systems , The 1.5W OEM heads I had from CNI used a 5V / 12V DC system on the driver .

Bob , Dose an external PSU plug into the driver or is the driver/PSU combined in one unit ? , Ill take a guess its 5/12V if
 
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No problem 3D. Anyway this one is Hap's former lab laser. The rick Trent build is bob's dual 520. :)
 
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DashApple said:
If it was a mains powered PSU built into the unit the actual diode / tec driver is usually 5V and 12V on larger systems , The 1.5W OEM heads I had from CNI used a 5V / 12V DC system on the driver .

Bob , Dose an external PSU plug into the driver or is the driver/PSU combined in one unit ? , Ill take a guess its 5/12V if
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Driver/PSU in one unit. So you're saying they just stick the regular OEM driver in a box with a PSU basically? That makes sense.

BobMc said:
It's this unit;

http://laserpointerforums.com/f45/monster-mgl-f-532-2-8w-feat-diachi-99749-3.html
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Yep, that's what I thought it was.

Dash may know more than me, I haven't opened up one of those supplies before, but sounds like it could have regular CNI OEM parts inside and could be powered directly with 5V/12V DC after some minor modifications.

BobMc said:
I don't know how much voltage the power supply puts out. I know the control wire need 5volts D.C. to activate the beam. I wired up a 5volt D.C. Transformer the supply the current. Use a standard 1/8" plug so it makes it easy to start and stop.
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Just a standard 5V wall wart? Maybe double check the output on yours, sometimes they've got a ton of ripple or sit at a higher voltage until they have some load on them. The Analogue modulation input is high impedance so it won't provide any sort of load. A slightly higher voltage won't be a problem, but the ripple may be decreasing your average power if it's present on the signal.
 
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diachi said:
Just a standard 5V wall wart? Maybe double check the output on yours, sometimes they've got a ton of ripple or sit at a higher voltage until they have some load on them. The Analogue modulation input is high impedance so it won't provide any sort of load. A slightly higher voltage won't be a problem, but the ripple may be decreasing your average power if it's present on the signal.
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I'm using 5v D.C. Phone charger, I tested it under no load and it putting out 5.5 volts. Didn't test it under load.

Was thinking since it's a phone charger it would have a smooth output, no/little ripple. Am I wrong in thinking that? Would you recommend that I take a different route? :thinking:
 
BobMc said:
I'm using 5v D.C. Phone charger, I tested it under no load and it putting out 5.5 volts. Didn't test it under load.

Was thinking since it's a phone charger it would have a smooth output, no/little ripple. Am I wrong in thinking that? Would you recommend that I take a different route? :thinking:
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That should be fine :) I'm guessing it's switch mode and not just a nasty big transformer/rectifier that plugs into the wall with very little filtering.
 
URe: 2.6 watt 532nm beam shots

diachi said:
That should be fine :) I'm guessing it's switch mode and not just a nasty big transformer/rectifier that plugs into the wall with very little filtering.
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Is there any way other than an oscilloscope to measure the ripple?

I could put a polarized capacitor on the output of the transformer as a back up.?
 
icecruncher said:
Alex (Mariomaster) got one of his Halfnotes working at SELEM this year. controlling the TEC and crystal temps with an arduino.

It was doing 3.5 watts

Those amounts of power are crazy bright.
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It was actually doing 2.5W with 24A @ 2.2V to the pump diode.
I know this because I'm the one who bought it from him:evil:. I still need to get it wired up, running a 2.2V diode at 24A from a 3.3V supply limits the driver.

It for sure was bright though.
 
The driver for my 1.35 watt 532 takes 5 VDC in. I have a 5 VDC 20 amp PS to run it. It's a bit of over kill as it doesn't need that much power. But, if I wanted to run it outside somewhere, all I'd need to do is add several 26650 batteries in parallel. Then again, 4.2 volts might not be high enough, but it wouldn't be difficult to run off batteries.
 
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