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FrozenGate by Avery

12X BR Diode - LM317 Based Driver Set Up

No prob :)

It's coming from Canada, so it may take a few days, but they're in the mail now. Mailed them in a letter envelope. Be careful when you open it because they're sort of loosely wrapped in tin foil. I also tossed in some 1W low Ohm resistors.

Cheers
 





Helios said:
Im talking about 3.7V Li-Ion cells. rhd very kindly will be sending me some lm1117s so I will use one of them as a regulator because of the lower drop so I can use the batteries I currently have. Thanks rhd!
Click to expand...


rcr123's are rechargable lilthium ions with @ 3.7v

michael.
 
chipdouglas said:
rcr123's are rechargable lilthium ions with @ 3.7v
Click to expand...

Maybe they're *supposed to be*, but my point was that labels for this rough battery size are meaningless because nobody follows them.

For example:

Like you said, RCR123 lithium ions stating 3.7V:
Soshine RCR 123 700mAh 3.7V Rechargeable Battery (2-Pack) Soshine RCR 123 700mAh 3.7V Rechargeable Battery (2-Pack) - $14.42 : ShopXter.com, - Your Biggest Electronics Gadget Store. Best on Price, Good Quality and Large Selection Of Products! Worldwi

But here are RCR123 lithium ions stating 3.6V:
RCR 123A 3.6V 650mAh (2.34Wh) Rechargeable Li-ion battery - Industrial only (1 PC, UL/CE Listed, UN Approved)

And RCR123 lithium ions stating 3.0V:
Tenergy RCR123A 3.0V 900mAh Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery

And RCR123s stating 3.2V, that they AREN'T lithium ion at all, but LifePo4:
http://www.batteriesinaflash.com/ph...4-rechargeable-battery?source=google_products

And RCR123s that are almost identical to the 3.2V LifePo4s above, but this time stating 3.0V:
Amazon.com: 4 pcs Tenergy RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh LiFePO4 Rechargeable Batteries: Camera & Photo

My point is - there's no consistency to what any of the titles I listed actually mean. You can say things like "Well, the R means it's BLAH, and the 123A vs 123 means it's BLAH", but when nobody follows those distinctions in reality, it's a completely useless distinction to pay attention to. For all intents and purposes, all of those labels I pointed out in the thread earlier, are interchangeable. If you know what you want, you just have to read the chemistry, and maybe the discharge capabilities, and maybe the stated voltage (though that should really be consistent across chemistries) Ignore what label the manufacturers attach - because its effectively meaningless.
 
Helios: More practical advice -

For the amazing host you created, the absolute best battery combination to use for a linear driver, is 2x 18350s.

18350's are basically half an 18650 in height, but the same diameter (which 16340s etc aren't). So the 18350 basically packs as much punch as can be packed in the space of half an 18650.

That's what I used for the torture test I ran on your host + 445 with a 1085 driver. They were cheap 18350s too - I have better AW IMRs en route that should kick the setup up closer to 1.9W :)
 
i use 3. have been for years. i use them with my rkcstr driver. it's only set to 165ma though.

michael.
 
I don't think they're even "generally" anything. It's such a message (the labeling scheme for batteries).

In order of appearance after searching google for RCR123, here are the titles that had reference to a voltage (any voltage) on the first page of results:

Best RCR123 3.6V on the market
Ultrafire 3.6 volt or 3 volt RCR123 Lithium Battery Charger
Tenergy RCR123 3.2V 750mAh LifePO4 Rechargeable Battery
$6.52 - Soshine 700mA 3.7V RCR123(A) Batteries Pack with Carrying ...

It's all over the place...
 
3.6, 3.7, 3.2 it doesnt matter. 2 of them will get him in regulation at full charge.
 
I'm not arguing just for the sake of arguing - but I don't think that's the case.

A 3.2 V will peak at 3.6V fully charged. If you're using two, you'll get 7.2V at peak charge. As soon as you connect a load, it will at least drop 0.1V per cell, so in reality, you'll get maybe 7.0V max.

Now even with an LDO regulator, you're still looking at almost 2V dropout when wired as a DDL style circuit, leaving maybe a bit more than 5V for the LD. Since he's talking about 12x 405nm diode, 5V isn't enough.
 
Would this driver work with a 16x dvd burner diode. And how many mw would it put out on 3 volts.
 
You're conflicting yourself...

The title states 12x blu-ray diode with an LM317 but you're talking about driving a red 16x DVD burner diode...

And you're not going to get any specific amount of mW with just voltage... you need to set up the LM317 as a constant current source.

Do some research, please.
 
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