Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

100mW PHR-803T in a Black Cree C3 Host with Extension Tube Budget Build.!






comradmax said:
Same thing with extension tube included for a little less. I'm buying this to build me one of these.:)

DealExtreme: $13.55 UltraFire Cree C3 Flashlight with 2xAA Extension Tube Bundle
Click to expand...

The reason why i did not post that one was because i dint buy that specific SKU#.

I know that there have been variations of the the reflector and Body so i dint want to link to that one and have it be diffrent.

But let me know if its the same. when you get it and ill add the link to the build.:)
 
Parts ordered for this build yesterday! I'll be drilling a hole then using either our RotoZip (dremel) or my router to make the hole the right size. Thanks for the bit size info, KernelPanic.

Any other hints or tricks I should know about before I start this build, lazeerer?

I just got a new soldering iron and multimeter as well... I'm very excited to build this!
 
Great!!!!! I might order the parts to make one of this. thanks a lot for posting. btw, is that heatsink enough to cool the diode ?
 
Ezcal said:
Parts ordered for this build yesterday! I'll be drilling a hole then using either our RotoZip (dremel) or my router to make the hole the right size. Thanks for the bit size info, KernelPanic.

Any other hints or tricks I should know about before I start this build, lazeerer?

I just got a new soldering iron and multimeter as well... I'm very excited to build this!
Click to expand...

Awesome.! :) The only tip i can give you is have patients when make the heatsink. Try drilling as much as you can off with a bit and then do the rest with a Dremel to make it a nice tight fit.:)

Silvershot said:
Great!!!!! I might order the parts to make one of this. thanks a lot for posting. btw, is that heatsink enough to cool the diode ?
Click to expand...

Thanks. I guarantee you that the Heatsink does a Awesome job keeping the Diode cool and by this i mean this laser does not get hot or barely warm to the touch after an expended period of time. I have had the laser on past 5 minutes and the Heatsink/Host is barley warm to the touch at 100mW. So in my conclusion, there is no duty cycle. :D Witch i love.
 
Last edited:
lazeerer said:
Awesome.! :) The only tip i can give you is have patients when make the heatsink. Try drilling as much as you can off with a bit and then do the rest with a Dremel to make it a nice tight fit.:)
Click to expand...

Sounds good, I'll do exactly that :)

I'll also be sure to take lots of pictures and make a nice pretty thread when I'm done.
 
Ezcal- be sure to measure the module you plan on using to be sure on size. Like I said I did the metric -> standard calculations at 3 am while i couldn't sleep. :P

I just measured one of my modules and it was exactly 7/16 according to my tape measure. If you have a drill press you could probably get away with using a 7/16 bit as long as the reflector is securely clamped. If you have to do it with a normal drill you may want to use a 3/8 or 13/64 then use the dremel which is what I might end up doing.

I got an email from DX yesterday saying my order shipped. As of an hour ago the tracking number didn't work yet but hopefully the parts will arrive this week so I can build it over the weekend.
 
So it's a month later, and the parts have finally arrived!

I've got a few questions though, and forgive me if the answers are obvious.

First, what do I connect the INPUT peg on the LM317 to? It looks like you removed everything from the pill, so I don't see where the + battery terminal would connect to.

And second, what do I connect the negative driver pin to? You say this is a case negative build, but I don't think that means connect the driver straight to the case... Does it?
 
^^^Awesome.:beer:

Before you do anything you have to desolder everything on the stock LED Driver that came with the light. Start by first desoldering the LED and desolder the 2 soldering points on either side of the positive connection of the pill. :)

Then you can stick a small screw driver threw the hole of one of the wires from removing the LED from the Pile. Try to Push the screw driver to the side of the pill threw the hole very carefully to pop the stock driver out of the pill.

Now you should have the stock driver out of the pill and ready to desolder all the parts off of it. Take into account where the white and Pink wires are those will be your + - connection. When you desolder the Led from the pill usually on the LED it will have a + sign or a - sign take into account witch is witch. I believe the pink is the +.:D

After you do this the Pink wire + will run to the + input of the LM and the ADJ of the LM will go to the Positive of the diode. Make sure to solder the resister on the ADJ and Output pin. "I cut the pins of to make more room" Rap the LM up with electrical tap so the pins do not rub against the wall of the pill . This will cause a short.:yabbem:

Next you will want to run a wire from the - of the diode to the - of the pill stock driver.

Once you do this you will want to put it together and resolder those 2 points of solder that went around the positive terminal of the stock driver.

Make sure also you make a 1/4 in or so size hole on the pill so the diodes pin can fit through. Like shown in the first picture and follow what i did in the 4 picture and you should be good to go. :beer:

Cant wait to see it. :)
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the help laz! The 102 fever I had made reading and comprehending this stuff impossible due to my non existent background in electronics,wires, positives, negatives and all of the above! So thanks again for the help now I sit and wait patiently for 2-3 weeks for my host to arrive.. If I don't go stir crazy and buy another one and just use the one on its way from Beijing for another build.
 
Image I drew up with my lack of actual circuit diagram knowledge I just drew it out and Lazeerer confirmed that this is the correct wiring of this budget builds driver.

ps Try and not be jealous of my mad paint skills!

 
Sweet Bixler, thanks for that! I should be able to finish this build up when I'm done with work tonight. Very exciting :)
 
Yea, im where you were 2 weeks ago! Waiting for your host in the mail.. Im entirely way to impatient for this.
 
Patients is the key with lasers.;) If you rush your work you are most likely going to damage something or make a mistake.

But i do understand being Inpatients when waiting to get something in the mail. Just make sure when you do get the parts you take it step by step so you will have a working laser at the end.:beer:
 
Aah man Bix, i'm right there with ya... Shipping from Hong Kong takes ages, I'd recommend forgetting about it until they surprise you in the mail.

One more hour until I can go home and finish building!


Posted from my CrackBerry.
 
Just so I'm 100% sure, before I start doing things I can't un-do...

I de-solder everything on here right? And positive and negative are actually already marked on here, so I know where those get hooked up:
29476813.png
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top