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FrozenGate by Avery

1.6W Peak 445nm SS 18650 Jayrob host W/'custom 'Hot' option' heatsink on driver

That o-ring looks cool...

But actually the heatsink will make a better contact to the host for heat transfer without the o-ring there. It still connects via the threaded pill, and like you said, the heatsink is plenty massive anyway. So if you like the look, I'm sure it's just fine that way...

But as long as the heatsink is tight enough so that it cannot turn when you focus. Otherwise it could twist your wires...
 





It doesn't move at all. It is more stable with the o-ring I think. :) And as I wrote before the full host get warm, so the heatsinking is also perfect.
 
wbayw said:
It doesn't move at all. It is more stable with the o-ring I think. :) And as I wrote before the full host get warm, so the heatsinking is also perfect.
Click to expand...

I don't believe Jay was saying the o-ring dos not hold the heatsink any less secure but that there is less contact from the heatsink to the body of the host for better heat dissipation. Since you are only driving yours at 540mA it should not be a problem. But when running at 1.5A that you want every bit of heatsinking that you can get and having the most direct contact between the host body and the heatsink will give the best heat dissipation.;)
 
so, what's the duty cycle on one of these babies? and also quick random question, I am currently scouring the interwebz for the answer if there is one, is there a formula for the amount of power lost over a distance for light? and would it apply to laser light? and at what power will damage the eye? I'm just trying to be as safe as possible.

Thanks.
Waffles
 
About duty...

DTR has shown that his build can go 3 Minutes. But that does not mean that the diode will last a long time at that duty. Especially at this current setting!

And one more thing to consider...

This setting for the V5 FlexDrive at max range with a 4+ volt diode is not shown in the documentation. Some of us are doing it at our own risk...

There is really no 'set in stone' answer as to how long the diode (or driver) will hold up.

Not only that, but we don't know for sure that it will work the same for every 445 diode??

I'm sure that diode efficiency/diode voltage will make a difference from build to build. (there may be some differences from driver to driver as well) Going beyond the limits here...
 
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DTR said:
Ok guys

Ran a few test today with different batteries fully charged and came up with some surprising results. I also was looking for better lighting for the test but since I am using my phone for the videos they are still not great but better.

So I have three types of 18650's. Ultrafire 2400mAh, AW 2600mAh, and a Trustfire 2500mAh.

So I ran some LPM test's starting with the Ultrafire 2400mAh
1582mW peak. 44mW less than the AW. Sounded right since I expected it to be lower with this battery. (Sorry my phone died in the middle of the run)

Then I tried after a cool-down period the Trustfire 2500mAh.
1641mW peak. Really was not expecting that. It is 15mW higher than the AW.

So this is initial power output on a freshly charged battery not taking into consideration the duration the battery will last.

Anyway thought it might be good info.
Click to expand...

Odd. I thought the drlava micro boost and flexdrive were constant current drivers (well, i know they are). as such, the battery shouldn't matter unless the battery power is really run down. but then, thats not good for the battery at all (i only use protected batteries). you shouldn't have much variation in laser output power using different batteries. or... what could be going on to cause these differences?
 
plexus said:
Odd. I thought the drlava micro boost and flexdrive were constant current drivers (well, i know they are). as such, the battery shouldn't matter unless the battery power is really run down. but then, thats not good for the battery at all (i only use protected batteries). you shouldn't have much variation in laser output power using different batteries. or... what could be going on to cause these differences?
Click to expand...

I am not sure why I get different results with different batteries. The only thing that I could guess is that if the driver was trying to pull more current than the battery can supply? But this is only a guess.
 
Yes, at the current you are running, the draw from the battery is probably near or over 2.5 Amps...

And not all batteries can handle that kind of current draw as well as others...
 
Do the flex/boost drivers modify the output voltage to keep up with the constant current? I would think that as the batteries were depleted and the output current stayed the same, the output voltage would decrease slightly. You can't get something for nothing, right?
 
IMHO any current driver modifies voltage to keep the current constant.
 
With a boost drive, as the battery drains, and supply voltage drops, the driver will maintain and regulate the set current, as long as the battery is able to handle the extra current draw...

The driver will use more and more current to boost diode voltage demand as the battery drains...

This is why a very high quality battery is needed in a 1 Watt+ build...
 
Added a couple of videos showing ways you can get the heatsink and pill screwed into the head to the OP.
 
ixfd64 said:
Damn, if only it were single-mode!
Click to expand...


That would be pretty sweet. For now all we get is.:undecided:

p1010583q.jpg





If you like this one wait for my review on the 1.5W 445 Ehgemus host I put together today. ;)
 
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Oh, need new pants after those new beam shots. I can't wait for mine to get here. Should ship out before the 5th at the latest. I can't even imagine the power yet. Photos just don't provide enough justice, I don't think.
 
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