Newcomer seeking direction

[trowe2]

So I'm new to the whole laser business, but I hope to not be in the upcoming weeks/months/year. I am an Engineering student who has always been fascinated by sciency stuff and lasers are right there. I have a pretty good understanding of basic circuitry and I've been doing a lot of reading up on these things. For my first build, I understand, I will need these things:

Laser diode
Laser Driver
Aixiz module
Power source

If I'm missing something, please let me know! I'm not quite confident enough to start from scratch. I'm thinking about purchasing the Laser diode in a fairly disassembled apparatus, the driver being pre built, and of course, the Aixiz module in working condition. I've been scouring the boards the past couple of days and I think I'll be able to learn a lot just by holding the pieces in my own hands and seeing how they fit together. Does anyone have any tips (maybe some memories from their first build?) on what I should order to get started?

Thanks so much and I have much respect to the people who truly devote a lot of time to developing this skill.

 

[bobhaha]

Hey trowe2, Welcome!

Well your parts will mainly reflect your budget, knowledge and power source.

If you want to power a diode with higher forward voltage than the max voltage available from your power source, you will need a buck driver for example the flexdrive. If voltage is not a problem, then a linear driver is also another option. A LM317 driver can be made for less then $5 or you can get a pre assembled one for ~$13 for example the rckstr driver.

The diode many people start off with is the PHR-803T, it is a blu-ray diode and is ~$10. If you blow it, well at least its only $10. Another alternative would be a LCC or LOC red diode, which are similarly priced.

Hope that helped
-Adrian

 

[trowe2]

My budget isn't exactly infinite, but I am willing to put a few dollars on the line and learn from my mistakes if need be. I've been looking at the PHR-803T and I believe that I will be working with that one. Is the forward Voltage in each one different, and how do I go about doing that? You said that the forward voltage needs to be greater than the voltage in the power source, does that mean Having a forward voltage of 7 can handle 6 volts worth of batteries? I have not seen this concept as of yet anywhere else on the boards! haha

If i buy this diode:
LPC-815 20X DVD burner diode out of sled [LPC-815_1] - $12.99 : StoneTek Electronics, Your Laser Parts Store

Can I use this Driver?
Micro-Drive V3 adjustable driver (assembled) - $13.00 : rkcstr.com, Micro-Drive and laser diode electronics

Thanks again!

 

[qumefox]

You really need some form of heatsinking for the aixiz module as well unless you want really short duty cycles.

 

[Ash]

Don't forget a host as well.

 

[trowe2]

I don't know where to begin with heatsinking. There are so many different types for many different applications... Do you have any recommendations on where to start? Is there any common items I may be able to salvage them from or a website I may be able to grab one from? I'm trying to be very basic, having to assemble as few parts as possible for my first one.

Ash, what is a host?

I'm learning a lot, thank you guys

 

[anselm]

what is a host?

It's where you put everything:the batteries, driver, wires, the diode, lens...

Regarding heatsinks:
you need to attach a chunk of metal to your diode to help keeping it cool.
The form and shape and size of this chunk is totally dependent on your choice of host.

 

[trowe2]

That word is so deceptively simple, host, eh? haha. Thanks for letting me know what it is. I understood the diode to be a pretty tight squeeze in the module. Does that mean you attach the heatsink outside of the module?

 

[anselm]

Yes, that is correct.

 

[trowe2]

What types of metal are ideal? and do you have any suggestions of heatsinks to start with for a first time build? I'm thinking the host is less important that the actual construction of the piece.

 

[anselm]

Well there a many members here who sell (more or less) complete kits, which are essentialy modified
flashlights that are ready to pop a diode in, solder a wire or two and your done.
Those come fitted with a heatsink as a rule, which in turn fits the Aixiz module.

If you don't care about it's ability to fit in your pocket or sleek looks, then maybe
the 2nd link in my signature can inspire you.
If you search the forum you can find many threads with lots of pictures...

 

[Leodahsan]

the most ideal metal is Silver (not viable )
the most viable, ideal metal is aluminium, but if you want smaller sinks I think copper is better (it is the 2º best metal to heatsink something, loses to silver but is cheaper).

if you really want a laser to first start with, you can buy a greenie pen to check it out (they are awesome at low powers, 5mW, you will be amazed seeing the 'beam' in the air for the first time!)
if you want to make one (build) you should start with the 'dvd burner' one (get goggles first, FIRST!) as it should be easy to get another diode if it works well.
all depends on your skills. I don't recommend the PHR as your first build as it is blu-ray (not 'that sensitive' to the human eye), a expensive color (a PHR outputs 80~100mW of blu, as with the same money you can get a LOC that outputs tops of 300mW). you will not be "that amazed" with a PHR as you could be with a LOC

just my thoughts, the best is to keep asking and listen to all forum members

edit: BTW, you need a soldering iron, soldering tin, soldering grease/paste (dunno name), thermal compound (not glue), wires etc. (sorry if you already know that).

 

[qumefox]

Actually technically the most efficient conductor of heat is diamond. It's a bit pricey though.. and hard to work with. heh.

 

[Leodahsan]

Diamond isn't a metal duh
(j/k)

 

[bobhaha]

My budget isn't exactly infinite, but I am willing to put a few dollars on the line and learn from my mistakes if need be. I've been looking at the PHR-803T and I believe that I will be working with that one. Is the forward Voltage in each one different, and how do I go about doing that? You said that the forward voltage needs to be greater than the voltage in the power source, does that mean Having a forward voltage of 7 can handle 6 volts worth of batteries? I have not seen this concept as of yet anywhere else on the boards! haha

If i buy this diode:
LPC-815 20X DVD burner diode out of sled [LPC-815_1] - $12.99 : StoneTek Electronics, Your Laser Parts Store

Can I use this Driver?
Micro-Drive V3 adjustable driver (assembled) - $13.00 : rkcstr.com, Micro-Drive and laser diode electronics

Thanks again!

What I meant, and what I think you miss understood is, the diode has its own forward voltage... for a blu-ray they are usually ~3.5v and for example if you wanted to use a AAA battery with voltage of 1.5v you need a buck driver to boost the voltage to ~3.5v for the laser and also keep a steady current output.

Where as if you are using 2 10440 lithium batteries the forward voltage on the diode is ~3.5v but the total voltage available from the batteries is 7.4v so a linear driver is the only alternative.

In regards to the driver and diode combination... yes that's fine, but you will need 2.15v + forward voltage of the diode to run that driver. The driver its self has a voltage drop of ~2.25v so your power source should be at least 2.25v over the forward voltage of any diode you run it with. So in this case you will need approx 5.66v so about a 6v input would be ideal.

-Adrian

 

[trowe2]

Anslem: That is really what I expect mine to look like. I don't really want my first one to be a flashy torch or pen style, I want simple and can get the job done haha.

Leodahsan: I think I'm going to stick with the blu ray because it seems to be the easiest to do and there are many different sources of instruction that I have seen that work for me so far. But I have a question: can the heatsink be as easy as wrapping aluminum foil around the module, or even a coil of copper wire?

Bobhaha: So basically what you are saying is that the diode and the driver that I have listed above on the first post requires 6V from batteries. And for future reference, the voltage required from the batteries to drive a driver (or is it just the rckstr driver?) needs to be double to voltage across the driver?