Replacement Diode for my Arctic Spyder III

[Fried Chicken]

Way back when I fried my arctic spyder pro III laser by putting two of the smaller type lithium batteries in it.

I think I fried the diode, however upon disassembly, it looks like it might have just fried the cable. I’m looking to test whether or not the diode is ok, however simultaneously, I think it would be a good idea to shop for a new diode. I really like the host and don’t want to waste that.

What would be a suitable laser diode for the old spyder? Since I bought it (back when it was just released during the $200 sale), 1W was around the max. Can the control circuitry handle more?

 

[RedCowboy]

I can show you the best way to fix a WL item.............

 

[Cyparagon]

You doubled the input voltage? Why? You may need to replace everything in there but the case. You can get a brand new (and better performing) look-alike for $50, or you can spend $150 in parts, 3 months lead time, and 4 hours in labor to get it back to original, substandard performance.

Please. Do yourself a favor and chuck it in the phukket bucket. It's like trying to repair a burnt-out light bulb. Yes, it's possible, but no one does it for all the same reasons.

 

[Fried Chicken]

You doubled the input voltage? Why? You may need to replace everything in there but the case. You can get a brand new (and better performing) look-alike for $50, or you can spend $150 in parts, 3 months lead time, and 4 hours in labor to get it back to original, substandard performance.

Please. Do yourself a favor and chuck it in the phukket bucket. It's like trying to repair a burnt-out light bulb. Yes, it's possible, but no one does it for all the same reasons.

I checked the circuitry, it’s putting out the appropriate voltage. I just have to double check the current output, and if it’s doing good current control, all I have to do is replace the diode.

 

[RedCowboy]

The original used the A series 1w 445nm multi mode diode but you could replace it with an M-140 diode and it wont hurt anything, both are 5.6mm and both will be used diodes because they have been discontinued......or you could go with an Osram PLTB450B which you can get NEW and is also 5.6mm and your factory lens will work the same with any of the aforementioned and all are inexpensive.........but I would go with a new driver SXD @ 2.3-2.4a and use a NDB7875 which will give you about 2.5w with a 3E lens but you will need to use a mew module and fit it to your case...........cheapest thing is go to ebay and get a used m-140 for cheap and press it into your factory sink, solder to your driver and see if it makes smoke or photons......don't forget to wear your laser safety glasses and don't get the diodes polarity backwards.

 

[Fried Chicken]

The original used the A series 1w 445nm multi mode diode but you could replace it with an M-140 diode and it wont hurt anything, both are 5.6mm and both will be used diodes because they have been discontinued......or you could go with an Osram PLTB450B which you can get NEW and is also 5.6mm and your factory lens will work the same with any of the aforementioned and all are inexpensive.........but I would go with a new driver SXD @ 2.3-2.4a and use a NDB7875 which will give you about 2.5w with a 3E lens but you will need to use a mew module and fit it to your case...........cheapest thing is go to ebay and get a used m-140 for cheap and press it into your factory sink, solder to your driver and see if it makes smoke or photons......don't forget to wear your laser safety glasses and don't get the diodes polarity backwards.

Ooooooooo more power..... OOOOO

[edit]

Sorry for the facetious reply. It was way more than I was expecting!
I will try to find a nice M-140 diode or an Osram PLTB450B.

If I went with a new driver and different diode, would I lose the factory safety and LED functionality? I quite like what WL created.

 

[Richie89]

I can show you the best way to fix a WL item.............

its so sad because WL would actually be an okay company if they didnt have such ridiculous pricing.

 

[Fried Chicken]

its so sad because WL would actually be an okay company if they didnt have such ridiculous pricing.

I think I paid $200 at the time, which I thought was reasonable.

 

[Snecho]

its so sad because WL would actually be an okay company if they didnt have such ridiculous pricing.

Lot better than the $1000 for the Spyder IIIs a few years ago.

 

[Richie89]

Lot better than the $1000 for the Spyder IIIs a few years ago.

good lord I remember that. you can literally build one for a quarter that price lol!

 

[Snecho]

good lord I remember that. you can literally build one for a quarter that price lol!

Those were the days...

When I thought $1,200 for an Arctic and all accessories was the peak of lasers.

 

[Giannis_TDM]

Those were the days...

When I thought $1,200 for an Arctic and all accessories was the peak of lasers.

Well this is their laser lineup in one image now. The only thing I would buy from them is the lasercube.

 

[Snecho]

Well this is their laser lineup in one image now. The only thing I would buy from them is the lasercube.

Lol

Regardless of reputation, it still is on my bucket list to own one. It would be great to do an in-depth review in 2020 on today's Wicked Lasers and laser quality.

 

[Fried Chicken]

The question still remains open.

Is there a way I can easily test the current control, using a resistor + multimeter for example. Unfortunately I don’t have any diodes Ican use. Maybe I can open a flashlight.

is there any appreciable benefit to the Osram vs the M-140 (other than being new vs being used)? The current fried diode had a rectangular beam vs a nice small circular spot.

 

[Encap]

The question still remains open.

Is there a way I can easily test the current control, using a resistor + multimeter for example. Unfortunately I don’t have any diodes Ican use. Maybe I can open a flashlight.

is there any appreciable benefit to the Osram vs the M-140 (other than being new vs being used)? The current fried diode had a rectangular beam vs a nice small circular spot.

See RedCowboy's post number 5 above.

DTR only has the Osram PLTB450B which has very sightly better beam profile-- for an M140A new or used look on ebay both new and used are low cost and available
To restore it to original 1W output -- if the driver still functions properly/if you didi not fry the driver and wiring- look for a vintage A140 laser diode extracted from a Casio XJ-A140 on ebay --they are still available for about $10

All blue direct diode laser have rectangular beam and spot ---none of them produces or ever has produced a circular spot so...
All diodes lasers are poor quality compared to an ideal Gaussian, circular, laser beam
See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaussian_beam

 

[Fried Chicken]

See RedCowboy's post number 5 above.

DTR only has the Osram PLTB450B which has very sightly better beam profile-- for an M140A new or used look on ebay both new and used are low cost and available
To restore it to original 1W output -- if the driver still functions properly/if you didi not fry the driver and wiring- look for a vintage A140 laser diode extracted from a Casio XJ-A140 on ebay --they are still available for about $10

All blue direct diode laser have rectangular beam and spot ---none of them produces or ever has produced a circular spot so...
All diodes lasers are poor quality compared to an ideal Gaussian, circular, laser beam
See: [link removed b/c can’t post]

I’ve been basing my searching on his post. I would like to have at least the 1W output it originally had, but from my understanding the OSRAM should deliver that as well. Regarding the spot, I don’t expect a diode to deliver a perfect spot, but I figured there might be a difference. Anyway, I’m sweating this too hard. If Barnett on ebay finds his Osram’s, I think I might swing that, otherwise I’ll just get the M-140 he’s selling, stick it in, and hope/pray that the driver still works.