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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Sanwu Spiker 5w 470nm

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I abided to the duty cycle religiously with this laser. It never ran for more than 15 seconds without a significant rest. With over $400 spent I honestly expected more. This is a BAD ASS handheld laser but the lense is cooked. 5 watts of blue is a lot to handle. I'm going to order a 3 element lense from sanwu and try to replace it myself.
 





GSS

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The dust cover reflects part of the laser beam sometime, you can adjust it(nose tweezers, turn it counter-clockwise) to remove the blemish.
What's the dust cover? A permanent "glass" cover?
 

Podo

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What's the dust cover? A permanent "glass" cover?

The cover glass on the top of every lasers we sell:
cover glass (2).jpg

You can adjust it with a nose tweezers if you think it affects the beam, it doesn't have to be tightened to the end.
cover glass (3).jpg

Inside is the focus lens which is unrelated:
cover glass (1).jpg
 
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GSS

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Wow, Shame on me:)
I didn't know that about some of your units. Actually I never heard any owners mention it.
 
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I've seen these on many lasers. This should not cause the beam to split if there is nothing wrong with it. And adjusting it should have no real effect over the beam either. I believe PolarAZ got a defective laser and is now guessing at what might mitigate his problems. This is not right. Nor is it fair to him. He should have a functional laser when he got it new for $400.00. I have doubts that a three element lens will make this right for him. :(
 
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BobMc

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I have this laser and I don’t have a “second” beam coming out. Think you got a bad one. I’ve dealt with Sanwu for a couple of years and never had problem with repairs, they’ve always been up front and straight, so if there’s a issue I’m sure they’ll make it right. It is one heck of a laser you got there. Your so right about the build quality. Best wishes with your situation. :)
 
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If that cover glass is rotated 180 degrees or removed does that clear it up ?
 

Gazen

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Hope it fixed your problem. I’m sure Sanwu will fix it for you if replacing the cover doesn’t work.
 
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Though late to this party understanding the origin of the double beam can be determined by seeing the beam straight from the diode.
 
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That's why I was asking if REMOVING the dust cover glass would remove the artifact, I expect it may be in the diodes output or on the diode window, but changing the lens and window can be attempted 1st.

If this became a common diode issue we would need a spatial filter with a precise rectangle cutout and a tapered edge, a pair of spatial filters separated by 20m or so would clean up a lot of the artifact/overspray.

I like to use lens flare hiders to block lens flair and also soak up any artifacts within the angle of the lens to edge of the tube, the longer the tube and the closer the diameter of the tube is to the beam the shallower the angle of overspray, just a small tube helps block a lot of lens flair and artifact, although in this case the 2nd weak beam I see here is at a shallow angle to the beam.

Lens flair is distracting to passers by and makes you stand out when lazing, just a 2 inch square of cardstock/construction paper rolled around an empty 12mm module and held with tape makes an expedient flair hider that you can slip over the standard thumb wheel of your M9 x 0.5 lens barrel or you can make something really nice, some of the Chinese greenies will have the lens recessed and that kills of a lot of lens flair.......I know this is not a practical solution to the OP narrow angle artifact problem, but it fit's along the lines of a common related issue and is a good thing to think about if you live in a metro/urban area.

12235-flairhider-pic2.jpg


12201-lens-flare-hiders-prevent-startled-bystanders.jpg


12199-490nm-hh-2.jpg


12200-490nm-hh2-lens-flare-hider.jpg
 
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This is a good example of masking. You hide any splash or artifacts that can occur because of lens issues. If there is a problem with the diode, however, this will not help without eliminating a large part of the beam and its power as well.
 

Encap

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It did not. Sanwu is sending me a new dust cover lense. Fingers crossed!

You don't have to wait for a new dust cover glass to find out if it solves the problem ----just unscrew it/remove it. If that doesn't solve it a new one will not either and you need return the laser as defective for repair or replacement to Sanwu.

That's why I was asking if REMOVING the dust cover glass would remove the artifact, I expect it may be in the diodes output or on the diode window, but changing the lens and window can be attempted 1st.

Exactly --common sense approach.
 
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That's why I was asking if REMOVING the dust cover glass would remove the artifact, I expect it may be in the diodes output or on the diode window, but changing the lens and window can be attempted 1st.

If this became a common diode issue we would need a spatial filter with a precise rectangle cutout and a tapered edge, a pair of spatial filters separated by 20m or so would clean up a lot of the artifact/overspray.

I like to use lens flare hiders to block lens flair and also soak up any artifacts within the angle of the lens to edge of the tube, the longer the tube and the closer the diameter of the tube is to the beam the shallower the angle of overspray, just a small tube helps block a lot of lens flair and artifact, although in this case the 2nd weak beam I see here is at a shallow angle to the beam.

Lens flair is distracting to passers by and makes you stand out when lazing, just a 2 inch square of cardstock/construction paper rolled around an empty 12mm module and held with tape makes an expedient flair hider that you can slip over the standard thumb wheel of your M9 x 0.5 lens barrel or you can make something really nice, some of the Chinese greenies will have the lens recessed and that kills of a lot of lens flair.......I know this is not a practical solution to the OP narrow angle artifact problem, but it fit's along the lines of a common related issue and is a good thing to think about if you live in a metro/urban area.

SNIP

12199-490nm-hh-2.jpg


12200-490nm-hh2-lens-flare-hider.jpg


Impressive.


I have made "tubes" for mounting solar filters on my telescopes out of various materials. For long term use cardboard/construction paper did not seem durable enough for me. I am wondering if some type of metal pipe, plastic pipe, or dense sheet foam would work. Also wondering about the beam scatter heating up the lens flare hider. More to the point is there some upper limit to the power of a laser at which point a lens flare hider would not be a good idea, say something like the 7w I just ordered.
 
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It would depend on the amount of overspray and it's concentration, although I have not had any problems with burning black cardstock as most overspray is scattered and it can be quite visible however typically it's not very much power, you can also use a brass flair hider or a metal with a rough surface texture, avoid smooth or shiny.

I have used them on the nubm44 but most of my nubm44 builds have a beam expander which also helps clean things up as per artifacts, I believe the input lens of the beam expander throws the artifacts into the expanders walls reducing it's appearance to nothing more than being part of the glow to unnoticeable.

12199-490nm-hh-2.jpg


12200-490nm-hh2-lens-flare-hider.jpg


Fixed focus @ infinity with cardstock inside an empty module.

12231-520-flare-hider-set-infinity.jpg


12204-100mw-520-w-flare-hider.jpg


Same but pressed back into the heat sink.

12205-1w-520-w-flare-hider.jpg
 
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