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Possible First Car

That probably will be good to have someone else give it a look as IE just mentioned, as your getting a bad vibe from the dealer, but still no need to obsess right now the only issue is the cars charging system or a drain.:)
 





People who sell their cars definitely have a reason to do it... I just sold my car and was honest with the buyer... it really does need an oil change in the next 1000 miles. Aside from that it should last another year or two easy.

Of course god help him if he doesn't change the tires before winter. Also warned about that.

GSS said:
That probably will be good to have someone else give it a look as IE just mentioned, as your getting a bad vibe from the dealer, but still no need to obsess right now the only issue is the cars charging system or a drain.:)
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A loud banging noise if coming from the engine could be very very bad news.

@LeHap - If it sounds kind of like a loud CLAP, have it towed. I'm probably just being paranoid but I had it happen to one car, and almost killed the engine.
 
Hope you get it sorted : ) ,
 
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If your hearing rapid fire then that's because the battery is dead/mostly dead. Why the battery is dead will be the question to answer. Will like be the alternator or as other said it could have a parasitic draw somewhere. I think here we do like a $20 charging system test. Tests the battery, altenator, and starter. It might be a little more I don't recall exactly. Been a little while since I've had to do one and you're in a different state as well.
 
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GR3EN said:
If your hearing rapid fire then that's because the battery is dead/mostly dead. Why the battery is dead will be the question to answer. Will like be the alternator or as other said it could have a parasitic draw somewhere. I think here we do like a $20 charging system test. Tests the battery, altenator, and starter. It might be a little more I don't recall exactly. Been a little while since I've had to do one and you're in a different state as well.
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Thanks for chimming in GR3EN.

How can the battery be dead already? I just bought it, unless something is draining it.

Below is the video



-Alex
 
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Well that would be the thing to figure out whether it be the altenator not putting out the proper voltage to keep it charged properly or if there is something drawing power that shouldnt. It's much less common for there to be a random draw from my experience unless the electrical had been tampered with for something such as stereo system, alarm etc. More likely the altenator, but as I said it's best to get the charging system tested as process of elimination.
 
Im going to try jump starting it tomorrow & drive it to the dealership so they can figure it out.

PS: Upload the 561 pics :D

-Alex
 
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LeHap said:
Im going to try jump starting it tomorrow & drive it to the dealership so they can figure it out.

PS: Upload the 561 pics :D

-Alex
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Yea definately have someone look at it. Hopefully it's just the altenator which just happens over time.

And I will. Just got off work. Waiting for it to get a little darker or if I get bored enough I'll find my way down to the basement for some beamshots
 
Ok,

Got an appointment with Volvo on Thursday. Yikes, labor per hour is $150 ouch.

At least my car will be in good hands :)

Any tips on how I should jump start it on that day? Does the battery sound completely dead?

-Alex
 
If it was completely dead you wouldn't get any lights/clicking. Sounds like it's about 90% Dead. A normal jump or a jump box will do fine. Also you might not make it to the dealership if the alternator is completely gone. Shouldn't take too long to find out once you jump it and disconnect. If the altenator is completely bad it will die almost immediately after disconnecting from the jump source. If it's putting improper voltage it might stay running but could die on your way to the dealer. Best bet would be to have someone follow you or bring a jump box
 
GR3EN said:
If it was completely dead you wouldn't get any lights/clicking. Sounds like it's about 90% Dead. A normal jump or a jump box will do fine. Also you might not make it to the dealership if the alternator is completely gone. Shouldn't take too long to find out once you jump it and disconnect. If the altenator is completely bad it will die almost immediately after disconnecting from the jump source. If it's putting improper voltage it might stay running but could die on your way to the dealer. Best bet would be to have someone follow you or bring a jump box
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So the problem must be with the alternator, right since it isnt holding a charge?

-Alex
 
LeHap said:
So the problem must be with the alternator, right since it isnt holding a charge?

-Alex
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Won't know for sure until you have the altenator checked. If you jump it and it instantly dies then that would be a good indicator that the alternator isn't performing properly. If you jump it and it dies on the way to the dealer again another good indicator, but the only way to know for sure is to have the altenator tested
 
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Got myself one of these and used my tablet to read from the cars Onboard Dash computer. What year is your car? Any car made after 1996 has a computer that you can connect to. Professionals connect to this for an idea of what's wrong before giving the vehicle a once over. Use this and see for yourself what's wrong and then take it to the mechanics so you can rest assured that you won't be screwed over.

https://www.google.com/#q=obd2+bluetooth+adapter
 
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GR3EN said:
If it was completely dead you wouldn't get any lights/clicking. Sounds like it's about 90% Dead. A normal jump or a jump box will do fine. Also you might not make it to the dealership if the alternator is completely gone. Shouldn't take too long to find out once you jump it and disconnect. If the altenator is completely bad it will die almost immediately after disconnecting from the jump source. If it's putting improper voltage it might stay running but could die on your way to the dealer. Best bet would be to have someone follow you or bring a jump box
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That video helped like GR3EN said there is just not enough juice in the bat. This sounds little but make sure your bat connections are tight This has happened more than once with me, see if you can twist the cable connects on the battery back an forth a little. This usually happens on a side post battery or an old one I know yours is new but it only takes a minute. You might need about 5 minutes of jump time to start, but again make sure your connects are good or it still might not take. When it starts take a cable off the bat and see if the car runs like he said that might be the answer. We all agree any aftermarket work can cause a drain. Auto Zone offers free diagnotic test if that test will give an electrical answer That video is not the noise of a motor having a bad rapping noise so dont worry about that ok
 
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Highly recommend an OBD2 reader for anyone with a slightly older car... will save you trips to the mechanic to turn off the check engine light if nothing else.

Got this four years ago: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiSca...sim_263_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D2WKFNAMSXR4EAG7XNQ It's a very basic model, and I use it once in a blue moon when a sensor in my exhaust acts up. Car passed inspection with no issues, so I really don't see a reason to spend $250+ to fix the issue.

GSS said:
=That video is not the noise of a motor having a bad rapping noise so dont worry about that ok
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Agreed, it doesn't sound anything like that.
 
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