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Please Help Diagnose This Battery Problem!!

Toaster

Toaster

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Its Jays SS 18650 Kit. Heat sinking the driver isn't probably going to be possible.

And The rest of the things you say don't seem to help in anyway. Capacity isn't the issue. Feeling the driver reach its thermal shut off sounds skin meltingly painful.
 





DTR

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I noticed was those batteries are blue. I thought you had the sanyo 2600mAh batteries that have a red wrapper. The ones in the red wrapper are the only batteries that I use and are the ones that I am familiar with.:beer:

My best guess and it is a guess is that since the voltage is lower on the cells the microboost is working harder to boost the voltage and as a result is overheating but that is only a guess.

Li-ion 18650 Cylindrical Rechargeable Cell: 3.7V 2600mAh (9.62Wh) --OEM from Japan/Korea

Also I have successfully sinked a flex driver in one of Jay's SS 18650 hosts. I used a dime but sinking a microboost is a little more difficult. You will need a small piece of aluminum to reach the chip that produces the heat(see picture below) If you wanted to switch to a flexdrive they are more efficient in the boosting process and as a result draws less current from the batteries.


Here is a microboost that Morgan sinked.
1zbwd8j.jpg
 
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Toaster

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Does the Flex at 1.1A need heatsinking. I seen yours but I dont have the parts:/

I am nervous about switching drivers.... Ahhh. Should I send these back to larry and switch for the Sanyos? In your opinion?
 
DTR

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Toaster said:
Does the Flex at 1.1A need heatsinking. I seen yours but I dont have the parts:/

I am nervous about switching drivers.... Ahhh. Should I send these back to larry and switch for the Sanyos? In your opinion?
Click to expand...

I like to sink my drivers if they are doing more than 800mA. They probably wont over heat but I like to keep them cool.


I can't tell you that they are for sure bad. I would like to see you try to charge them with a different charger but I do know the 2600mAh Sanyos in the red wrapper that he sells should be the same as the ones that I get and that cell is my choice 18650.:beer:
 
Toaster

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Dont have the another Charger ATM. If the voltage checks out when I pull them from the charger doesn't that disprove the charger?

Im not trying to be sassy, just trying to disprove all I can.

Does that video with the quick battery changes seem strange to you?
 
Toaster

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Yeah man, its pretty cramped in there.

Does anyone got any input on the weird behavior in the battery switch? I didn't know the batteries were so important and could impact build behavior so much!!!!
 
Toaster

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Yeah man I got that down. I know the problem and I know the fix.

I want to know the Why if I can though. Thats why I DIYed it rather than buying a Yobresal build.
 
Toaster

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Yeah man, I usually try not to PM on issues like this. I figure they will see it, and if they know anything, they will post what they know.

I'm gonna hope someone that knows whats going on will stop by.
 
DTR

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Hey one last idea. Check the current draw from the different batteries with your DMM. See if they are showing a big difference.;)
 
Pontiacg5

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Take the tailcap off, and set the meter to the amp range. It's usually something like 10A. You might have to move the test leads to a separate, fused plug as well.

Then all you do is use the multimeter as the tailcap, one test lead to the battery terminal, and the other to the case of the laser.

Snap, DTR beat me. Notice the different ground lead plugs though....
 
Coherent Light

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Yup that'll show you how much current the battery delivers. WTG DTR

As a reference My AW 2600's deliver 2.78 amps
 
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