2nd build Oclaro 700mW 638nm

Oclaro 700mW 638nm Diode (HL63193MG)
Killed my first diode using my S4X host, 2 18650's, Super X-Drive(SXD-V3).







I tested first using one of my nubm44 diodes before hooking the Oclaro 700mW 638nm Diode (HL63193MG) up. Then fitted it into my S4X host. When I powered it on it instantly killed my diode. I confirmed a dead diode with my multi tester. So I went back and checked the data sheet on this diode.

Ordered SL-SD-1
Survival Laser Driver
S4 host
S4? Host Assembly

When I get my parts in and replacement diode, I will be a little more thorough in testing (with 1 and 2 18650's).

Will probably get SL-20AHDSTL (20A Heavy Duty Selectable Test Load) next month. Looks like just what I need.
http://www.survivallaserusa.com/20A_Heavy_Duty_Selectable_Test_Load/p1667092_14648884.aspx

do happen. Sorry to hear it though. Lesson learned. On to the third build.

wait a second if you are using a constant current driver then you don't have to worry about the volts as this adjusts by the diode itesf.i see only 2 things that could cause a problem

1st and most important, while you could drive a mits 500 diode with 1.32A this looks too high for an oclaro as those don't take that much abuse. so i suggest to lower your current at <1A or somewhere around there.

and 2nd is the sxd driver you using a proper buck driver for this low diode volts?(i never used it so im just saying to check it to be sure)

if you definetly want to go for 1.3A setting you should really consider the mits500 diode as its more robust

deadshadow said:

wait a second if you are using a constant current driver then you don't have to worry about the volts as this adjusts by the diode itesf.i see only 2 things that could cause a problem

1st and most important, while you could drive a mits 500 diode with 1.32A this looks too high for an oclaro as those don't take that much abuse. so i suggest to lower your current at <1A or somewhere around there.

and 2nd is the sxd driver you using a proper buck driver for this low diode volts?(i never used it so im just saying to check it to be sure)

if you definetly want to go for 1.3A setting you should really consider the mits500 diode as its more robust

Click to expand...

That was the lowest possible setting for that driver. Now I didn't test that driver using only 1 18650 as I don't have a host yet that only uses 1. So it's possible it might work with 1 18650 but not 2. The other driver I ordered from Survival laser store is a 1.25 amp driver and the max suggested amp is 1.2. I chose that diode because it's not too high priced.

Bradford717 said:

That was the lowest possible setting for that driver. Now I didn't test that driver using only 1 18650 as I don't have a host yet that only uses 1. So it's possible it might work with 1 18650 but not 2. The other driver I ordered from Survival laser store is a 1.25 amp driver and the max suggested amp is 1.2. I chose that diode because it's not too high priced.

Click to expand...

where did you bought your diode from?the mitsubishi has similar price and could be even cheaper,the only not so good about it is that is an open can so it needs to be extra careful.

find another proper driver with lower current or try your idea with 1 battery and your test load to see the output.your host isn't a problem if your build could work with 1 18650 as you can always make or find a dummy battery

i suggest you not to power you new diode at that current or it will also die quick

My first one was the super x drive. After it killed my diode, I ordered this one:



"delivering 1.25A +/- 50mA of regulated current at a recommended input voltage of 4.2 to 8.4 volts"
4.2= (1) 18650
8.4=(2) 18650
'Thats only 0.05A higher than recommended so the oclaro will probably be able to handle it. Note the AP on the 5th picture thats peak amps at 3.4A(the super x drive at lowest pot. setting with (2) 18650) with a recommended 1.2A. This driver is pretty cheap around $5.00 and probably a better driver for this diode.'

I ordered a S4 host


because of the M-26 threads on the S4 series
Making beam correction pheasable


not much Thor's hammer can't fix!

So it's like a half pint of the S4X host with the same threading. From what I've seen, I will probably only use S4 host series unless I can guarantee a fit with lens tube. I may upgrade to a S4X next month but for now I will have 2 host the S4X and S4. With a drilled aluminum pill if I trim my jst connectors first and carefully pull the axis housing through the heatsink with a hooked dental pick, I will be able to remove the attack plate or top of the S4 (X) and practically remove the heatsink and pill as one solid unit.

well you bought the oclaro from DTR,he also has the mitsubishi ml501p73 on the same price

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/mitsubishi-635nm-500mw-diodes

this diode supposed to be a 500mw but it can even outperform the oclaro to power.

as for the new driver althought that looks cheap at least it says its a buck so as long as you use 1 battery(for your application) it will work.
the 1.2A max recommendation on Jordan's site it seems abit high to me for the oclaro thought.i hope your new diode will be ok.

wish you luck :beer:

Thanks for the tip on that mits. I am defenitely getting one of these.
This is just what I was looking for something a little red but leaning on
the orange side. Using a lower amp, I may be able to get it a little more
orange. I will probably set my voltage around 1.9V and then add beam
correction.


looks like I will wind up with some spare parts but that's ok. I may wait on the Oclaro until
Jordon gets more of the nano drivers in stock to complete that build. Looks like the S4 will
make a good host for the Mits though!

Questioning myself about using a bandpass filter on that mits
with the cutoff at 645nm
https://www.thorlabs.com/thorproduct.cfm?partnumber=FGL645
Will probably add a spatial filter to at least one of my Nubm44 diodes with
no diode window.

I had one at 1.4a still going strong 2 years later! Just sold it!

https://youtu.be/y_2n7KpVfdk

Use a Flexdrive or even a AMC with modes. If Jordan shows 1.2a that is his max safe current it can handle more!

badboybilly said:

I had one at 1.4a still going strong 2 years later! Just sold it!

https://youtu.be/y_2n7KpVfdk

Use a Flexdrive or even a AMC with modes. If Jordan shows 1.2a that is his max safe current it can handle more!

Click to expand...

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/laser-drivers/micro-flexdrive-v5
You have my fullest attention. Hmm if electric tape will work ..a single layer around it
to keep it from shorting...I could prob put some heat shrink tube around it and make
a tiny hole for the potentiometer.

Anyone got a link for the axisz housing back half for 12mm that isnt the solid copper?
I didn't see any on DTR Labs site.

badboybilly said:

I had one at 1.4a still going strong 2 years later! Just sold it!

https://youtu.be/y_2n7KpVfdk

Use a Flexdrive or even a AMC with modes. If Jordan shows 1.2a that is his max safe current it can handle more!

Click to expand...

yea i agree with you as you got the mitsubishi diode and not the oclaro,the mitsu are a bit stronger and more robust than oclaros beside the open can.
i have read more deaths on the oclaros above 1A thats why i told that

edit:what lens you use on your build?im having hard time to chose a nice lens for my new build because g2 has awesome power but very bad beam and the 3 elements cuts around 400mw in power



glad you worked it out Bradford make sure to update us when your parts arrive :wave:

why you looking for an axis that isn't copper?ebay is full of those,just search 'laser housing'

Nvm found a link
https://www.amazon.com/AixiZ-30mm-laser-module-blanks/dp/B004LZHA0I
I was looking for a blank back half to solder the driver directly to the diode.

Just sharing some knowledge,

A (buck) driver equipped with high side current sensor at the output, which took its power from the output of the buck IC, will most likely not regulating the current, not until the buck IC is outputting a voltage of 2.5V!!!

Hence if you set the current at 1.25A, if on that current, the diode only giving a 2.3V of forward voltage, the Buck IC will drive the current more and more until the output reach 2.5V (which is the minimum supply of the current sensor IC). But guess what current is at the 2.5V Vf??

In conclusion, it will give some spike.

This applies to any driver with high side current sensor configuration, which took its Vcc from the output of the Buck IC.

deadshadow said:

yea i agree with you as you got the mitsubishi diode and not the oclaro,the mitsu are a bit stronger and more robust than oclaros beside the open can.
i have read more deaths on the oclaros above 1A thats why i told that

edit:what lens you use on your build?im having hard time to chose a nice lens for my new build because g2 has awesome power but very bad beam and the 3 elements cuts around 400mw in power



glad you worked it out Bradford make sure to update us when your parts arrive :wave:

why you looking for an axis that isn't copper?ebay is full of those,just search 'laser housing'

Click to expand...

I would try a 2 element AR coated for 650 it's much better divergence than a G2 for this diode!