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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Doctor Who burning laser... Modification in the works...

MikeBP

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So man how far are you? excited to see the finished project.


a user named eudamoniom or what ever... eud sounds to me like one of these DR Who guys
dr_who10_469935a.jpg
 





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So man how far are you? excited to see the finished project.


a user named eudamoniom or what ever... eud sounds to me like one of these DR Who guys

Lol Well for starters, I'm still waiting on the driver circuit to be delivered from Hong Kong or wherever in China it's coming from.
Also building a test one first to make sure the circuitry is right. Then I can mod it with the sonic case...
 
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Well, sadly, this one is being put on hold. Apparently, in order to get the laser properly focused, I need a FAC lens, as well as a couple other things. As of right now, I have the diode, it has been tested out by me and by jayrob (who has much better equipment lol), and without the special lens, it just won't focus. It is capable of (slightly) burning at 2 inches, which seems to be the focal point on it's own, but still not powerful enough as the beam does not come to a dot, but is shaped as thus: -----, so without the FAC lens, I can't focus it properly. :(. fun thing is I can't even find a FAC lens for sale anywhere.....

I will eventually continue this little gadget, but for now :( I just have to wait.
 

Morgan

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Hmmm, that's a bummer. Keep your eyes peeled for that FAC! (or get another diode with one already fitted).

Am I right in thinking these are also called, 'GRIN', lenses? Or is that a different type entirely?

M
:)
 
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Hmmm, that's a bummer. Keep your eyes peeled for that FAC! (or get another diode with one already fitted).

Am I right in thinking these are also called, 'GRIN', lenses? Or is that a different type entirely?

M
:)

Morgan you're a genius.... you're awesome.... spent forever trying to locate a FAC lens.. As soon as I searched for a GRIN,.. bam. Found it.
Will be ordering soon, thanks much.
 
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Awesome idea, Parabola!

When I first found these forums I did a search on "sonic screwdriver" and for some reason didn't find your thread, so I started a new one, looking for someone to take on this very same project: http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/custom-build-sonic-screwdriver-50583.html

The last time I dabbled in electronics ended in fire, so I have no illusions of being able to build this myself, but I have had several ideas floating around in my head that you might be able to use.

For reference, this would involve the 10th Doctor's screwdriver (the toy, not the crazy expensive replica), a custom built aluminum handle and a blu-ray laser.

I'd been concerned about the plastic shell and lack of space for batteries in the original toy design... it currently uses button cells (LR44 if memory serves), which I'm sure would be a grossly insufficient power source. CharlieBruce suggested rebuilding at least the central "grip" portion in aluminum to house the batteries & heat sink, as you are doing.

In terms of functionality, ideally there are two things I'd like to see the unit to be able to do: 1) amusing parlor tricks such as popping a balloon, lighting a match, etc. and 2) fluoresce objects such as security strips in paper money and other UV reactive items. I don't know if it would be possible (let alone financially feasible) to have 2? separate settings on the unit... perhaps using the sliding action somehow to refocus the laser depending on which function is to be used. Also wondered if it'd be possible to retain the sound effects, but that's not terribly important.

Allons-y!
 
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Morgan

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Hi The Enabler,

Caught your other thread but posted here as the time is the most recent one.

I may be able to offer some assistance here too. I have almost all the sonics released to date and 10th Doctor version that has most room is in the IR battle set available with the Master's Laser Screwdriver and Toclofane base station. I know it's a terrible thing to admit I know that, but I share anyway! Of course the 11th Doctor Sonic has literally LOADS of room.

I think from a building perspective though custom is your best, if not pricey bet and if Mr Bruce can't help you soon enough then I offer my services. Owning one of the, 'crazy expensive replicas', may in fact help here as the finish and how it was achieved is described in the authentication material.

I also think it may be difficult to retain some of the features you're after, (focussing with the slider etc). Focus in these builds is only a matter of millimeters from nearest to farthest and that slider travels a lot more than that. Sound is probably less troublesome and seperate settings, although possible, probably should be discounted. Having only given it a couple of minutes serious thought however, I don't doubt ideas would change a number of times on all these factors!

I hope Charlie can help you out first but let me know if I can help. I hope you find satisfaction in your search for a Laser-Sonic Screwdriver.

M
:)
 
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Morgan - I laughed for ten minutes straight when I first saw the "laser tag" screwdriver set on thinkgeek... then I realized I wanted one too. ;) Any help you're willing to offer is most welcome and appreciated!

Charlie has suggested to me that there are two options:
A) custom built-from-scratch: completely original design, aluminum case, favoring functionality over authenticity. More complex, more expensive.
B) toy screwdriver: modified internals, original plastic casing, aluminum head piece.

We are currently brainstorming Plan A, debating cost vs functionality.

Mandatory considerations:
-Longevity of diode
-Cost (up to $500, preferably under $200)
-Variable power settings: high (burn)/low (fluoresce)
-Authenticity (doesn't need to be perfect, just recognizable by a casual fan)

Optional:
-Telescoping action
-Sounds
-manual focus
-Ease of re-production
 

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Morgan

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Morgan - I laughed for ten minutes straight when I first saw the "laser tag" screwdriver set on thinkgeek... then I realized I wanted one too. ;) Any help you're willing to offer is most welcome and appreciated!

You will let me know what they're like to use and play with won't you? All my ones are in the original damn boxes!!!!! Collectors... Tsk, tsk... Yeah, you can keep laughing! :crackup:



Charlie has suggested to me that there are two options:
A) custom built-from-scratch: completely original design, aluminum case, favoring functionality over authenticity. More complex, more expensive.
B) toy screwdriver: modified internals, original plastic casing, aluminum head piece.

We are currently brainstorming Plan A, debating cost vs functionality.

Mandatory considerations:
-Longevity of diode
-Cost (up to $500, preferably under $200)
-Variable power settings: high (burn)/low (fluoresce)
-Authenticity (doesn't need to be perfect, just recognizable by a casual fan)

Optional:
-Telescoping action
-Sounds
-manual focus
-Ease of re-production


Those seem like reasonable specs. If it can be done safely and easily I like the variable power setting but will reserve judgement on that and wait to see the solution. It's no slur on any fine work Charlie or anyone else could produce it's just... I don't know something niggles me about it for some reason.

I'll try and dig out the paperwork that came with my replica and let you know about paint work. The colour on mine is much more gold than I've seen on most of the toys even, but I have to bow to the makers that it's authentic.

Keep me posted, I wait for news. If you need any measurements taken from as close to the real thing as we can get, Charlie, then drop me a line.

M
:)
 
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Hey guys sorry I disappeared for so long, been really busy, still very busy but wanted to drop in and say I am still here. Enabler- I like where your head is at. Unfortunately at the moment my building has been put on hold- this is for ALL projects. Currently house hunting and working a lot, and don't have the time :(. Still need to send jayrob my lens....
 
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@ Morgan:
Would the variable power setting require constant manual refocusing of the lens? Hmm... do you think including fewer, more specific settings -- say, low (fluoresce), med (laser pointer) and high (hot/burning laser) -- would be practical? Oh, as for the color of the grip, the only time I remember actually seeing that part, that color onscreen was early in series 1 (2005).

@ Parabola:
Now there is something I rarely hear... because my head is usually anywhere besides where it should be. :) Best of luck with your house hunt - and may you be comforted by the fact that $1200/month is just about the average rate to rent around here. #$%^@ New York...
 
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@ Parabola:
Now there is something I rarely hear... because my head is usually anywhere besides where it should be. :) Best of luck with your house hunt - and may you be comforted by the fact that $1200/month is just about the average rate to rent around here. #$%^@ New York...

Hehe that's about what I'm looking at... Then again, with 4 kids already and a pregnant wife, I'm looking for a 4 - 5 bedroom house (preferably 5).

I have however just ordered the O-Like Gatlin 100mW 532nm Waterproof laser... can't wait to take it swimming lol (freak out the kids ;) )
 
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@ Morgan:
Would the variable power setting require constant manual refocusing of the lens? Hmm... do you think including fewer, more specific settings -- say, low (fluoresce), med (laser pointer) and high (hot/burning laser) -- would be practical? Oh, as for the color of the grip, the only time I remember actually seeing that part, that color onscreen was early in series 1 (2005).

Flourescence: focal point in front of diode - gives a cone output, with a wide spread so that it's relatively eye-safe.

Pointing: focal point on diode - gives (essentially) straight beam

Burning: focal point behind the diode - gives a beam output that has a focal point, which is concentrated enough to burn.

The output power of the diode does not affect the distances to create each of the above shapes though.

@Anyone (especially Morgan/Kim)

I'm going to try and throw together an initial design for the host before too long (exam season though, so no guarantees this is any time soon) - I'll get a friend to do some initial renders. I'll use the diagram a couple of posts up for the basic shape of the host, and if there are any differences between your replica and the design in the render, it'd be useful if you could mention it to me and I'll correct them. After that, I'll try and get it built on a CNC machine locally, but if that's not possible I'll send the resultant engineering drawings to someone who could create a prototype. I might like to play with some rapid-prototyping pieces too (basically plastic) - for the internals only. I can give anodisation a good try, for the silver or black sections. Handle section depends on the finish of the real thing.

My initial ideas for the design throw up a couple of places where accuracy of replica might clash with functionality - I'd be particularly interested in diameter 2 as labelled. Distances 9 and 5 also interest me, as well as the overall diameter and the travel distance of the slider.

I think I may have a way of offering nearly all of the features of the original, perhaps even the extending head (though this is quite inconvenient :( ) but it does depend to some extent on several dimensions. What does the handle of the model one look like, and how does the slider operate? All the dimensions I'd find useful if you could post or PM are (crudely) annotated below. Overall weight, and an estimate of the centre of gravity would be useful (but mainly from a curiosity point of view, I'm not going to try and design too hard to these)

I'd suggest that AA size (14500) is the lowest we'll reasonably be using for this - though the bigger the better - does everyone agree with this assumption from a design point of view?

On the focus issue - basically, the only reliable and sensible way of changing the focus is to do it manually, by directly twisting the lens assembly close to the diode. For that reason, the design can't be 100% accurate - the closest we're going to get will still look different at the beam aperture. A custom focus ring along the line of Jayrob's EZ-Focus adapters is the closest we will get to the true look of the head, and even then, due to the size of the Aixiz module, will still vary slightly in length, if not width.
 

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Morgan

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Hey Mr Bruce, (and All)!

The labelling of the pic in your post in pretty crude :D but I'll do my best to get you the measurements listed.

I'll take some decent pics for you too. As this is a private project I don't really want to be posting specs for what is a commercial and approved BBC product. I would like to see a one off model but not a mass produced rip off, (there is already one causing enough controversy if you wish to look). I know that is not what we are after here so I just wanted to state my position publicly and will PM you the info for this project.

I hope I didn't seem an arse there but, '... rights is rights... !'

Be in touch shortly...

M
:)
 
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I understand fully - to clarify, this won't be produced in more than VERY small quantities (I'd say 3-5 as a limit?), and where possible will be done from concept art and not measurements taken from the BBC replica. Also, the end laser hosts won't be BBC-endorsed or approved, and are entirely enthusiast-designed and made.

All "confidential" details such as dimensions taken from the BBC product should be kept private, and will likely only be used to get an idea of the scale of the concept art, and not to create a perfect copy of the BBC toy. Legally, I think that web-resolution photos for the purposes of demonstrating a product are considered "fair use" under UK/US law, but it may still be sensible to keep these private too.

Did I mention that I was interested in the handle texture/feel? If you need any clarification on anything let me know.
 




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