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FrozenGate by Avery

XBox 360 HD-DVD DT0811 Sled Diode I-P Plot

As I understand there are two types of sleds for xbox 360 hd-dvd drives.The powerful ones that are monsters and the weaker ones.This is the plot for one of the weak ones,right? And it clearly shows it's also a bit of a beast.  :-/ I really gotta get me one of those hd-dvd diodes, I want a burning blu-ray. :D
 





Just noticed this.. thanks for posting this.

The one pointer I've got working using the DT0811 I'm driving at 35mA. I think it's putting out at least 10-15mW. The first one (DT0811) I harvested died after a few minutes (@40 mA) I'd assumed these were weak diodes, more like the PS3 ones. Now you and several other people are reporting these are good for much more, at least 50mW...

So, should I increase the power to my DT0811 based pointer?? Easy to adjust the pot.
 
flogged said:
Just noticed this.. thanks for posting this.

The one pointer I've got working using the DT0811 I'm driving at 35mA. I think it's putting out at least 10-15mW. The first one (DT0811) I harvested died after a few minutes (@40 mA) I'd assumed these were weak diodes, more like the PS3 ones. Now you and several other people are reporting these are good for much more, at least 50mW...

So, should I increase the power to my DT0811 based pointer?? Easy to adjust the pot.
Click to expand...

I am not afraid to run it at 80mA, :P that should puts out 50mW of blu light. 8-)
 
IgorT said:
Monk: What lens did you use in this test?

I don't understand why you only got 90mA at 140mA..


There is something very wrong with this graph. I get 70mW after the lens at 90mA.
Your graph shows 106-109mA for the same power. Is it possible, that u used an 650nm AR coated lens for this graph?


Is it possible, that you have a mix of clear and 650nm AR lenses, and that you used a clear one in the 105mW but a coated one for this graph?



EDIT: Oh, stupid me.. This is the DT0811 diode... Sorry.. :D

Not bad for the "weaker" DT0811 diode. Not bad at all... It needs a higher current, but can still put out 70 or even 80mW AFTER the lens! I had no idea how good it was! Thank you for doing this graph! I was talking to some people, and we were speculating, that the PHR803T might contain the same die as a 4x BR Burner, only in a different can. But after seeing this, it is more likely, that this is a 4x BR die in a different can. The 803 really could be a 6x BR die, that didn't come out good enough for use in a 6x writer. This is all just a lot of guesses, but if we had V/I/P curves, we could actually compare these to 4x and 6x BR diodes and maybe learn a bit more. Similar or identical electrical characteristics could tell us a lot, but not without the voltage. I'm gonna measure the voltage on my 803 right now, so Phenol can compare it to his 6x BR diode.


BTW, GooeyGus ran his at up to 160mA for a short time, but without a meter, he probably didn't notice the drop in power after 140mW.


P.S. You should have just mentioned, that this is not the same diode, when i asked about the 105mW one. :)
Click to expand...

The different plastic lens from Aixiz, DX, SureElectronics I have are the same. Aixiz Glass Lens drops the power by ~10mW.
 
Yes! - TheMonk, thank you!!

I was actually underpowering my diode. I'd assumed these were equivalent to a PS3 diode. I increased the power on mine to 47.5 mA (from 35mA). It more than doubled in apparent brightness! It used to look 2-4x as faint as my just completed 803t sled diode (running at 82.5 mA).. now the 803t diode does not even appear twice as bright.

Since I was one of the first people to make a pointer with this (unknown) diode I was very conservative. After wasting a drive and getting all the parts I didn't want to blow the diode. Thanks for doing the work and take the risk of blowing the diode. That's what this group is about, (among other things :) ), to help other people avoid making stupid mistakes.

Judging from the slope 50mA should be a safe current - the slope continues kink free quite a bit beyond this. Hopefully I'm getting at least 25mW from the pointer now. :)

Either diode from the xbox is more powerful than the ps3.

Here's a picture of my two xbox hd 'brick' pointers. One on bottom (just completed) is consuming 82.5 mA (803t sled diode). The one on top is using the 811 sled diode, now at 50mA

803t_4.jpg


Compare this to when the 811 was running at 35mA (!) Note how much brighter it's now.

803t_2.jpg
 
These diodes kick ass.Especially the 803.Do all of you guys just get them from psxboy? :P
 
I learned from experience that I can find the maximum current of red burner diodes without making a graph, by increasing the current until mode hopping occurs. Can the same also be done for blu-rays or does it work differently?
 
Switch said:
These diodes kick ass.Especially the 803.Do all of you guys just get them from psxboy? :P
Click to expand...

The first three diodes I ripped out of xbox drives (purchased locally, bestbuy, and from amazon). The first two had 811 sleds. I never pushed these diodes above 40mA. I simply couldn't find any information about the diodes on the internet. Proprietary manufacturers stuff. So I assumed they were in the same league as the PS3 diodes, and kept the current < 40mA. After hearing climbaks results I ripped apart a third xbox hd drive I'd been sitting on, and as luck would have the sled was an 803. Then I ordered two of the 803t sleds from psxboy.

Destructive testing is the only way to determine the limits on an unknown part like this. Even then it really should be done to at least 5-10 random diodes to get an accurate picture of the limits.
 
Zom-B said:
I learned from experience that I can find the maximum current of red burner diodes without making a graph, by increasing the current until mode hopping occurs. Can the same also be done for blu-rays or does it work differently?
Click to expand...

Are you willing to risk blowing the diode? if so, try it and see.

I imagine mode hopping might be harder to notice, as the eye cannot nearly as much contrast in 405nm light compared to 650.
 
flogged said:
Destructive testing is the only way to determine the limits on an unknown part like this. Even then it really should be done to at least 5-10 random diodes to get an accurate picture of the limits.
Click to expand...

Unlike the 18-20x DVD Burner Diodes, you need certain power to achieve the Burning speed. These are just Reader Diodes, the manufacture could just throw anything left over after they pick the high power ones for the Burners. Kinds like over clocking CPUs. ;)
 
I doubt these diodes are rejects. They were purposely designed to work at a certain power level, whatever that may be. 100's of thousands to millions of HD units were produced, far more readers than burners.

There isn't much room for gross imperfections in any single mode diode that's going to be used in a burner or a reader. Both need to be able to get a near diffraction limited spot size for reading or writing.

If the diode is powered within spec (whatever that may be.. we just don't know for these diodes) it should hold up for a good number of hours - more than enough for a pointer. If not the manufacturer risks getting too many rejects. It's when you push the diode overspec that you play the lottery. Some may hold up quite well.. others, poof.
 
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