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FrozenGate by Avery

X drive questions.

Looks like your neg diode pin is soldered to the pos driver output.

Is this a joke, your messing with us right ?
 





Coonie said:
If you feel you're losing your patience then you have to walk away from the project and come back later otherwise you mess up like that soldering job. It's really bad. You set yourself up for failure in this state of mind and it's not worth the time and money wasted.
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Good point. That's what I'll do. Give it a few days maybe.
 
Since this driver is adjustable and if you didn't specify your preference before you bought it, you have no idea what current it is pushing through that diode. You will need a dummy load to test and setup the driver before you use it. DTR will set these for you if you ask, but you have to specify the current. It the pot is all the way to one side it may not have been set to any current. Lazeerer always set these to a default current before sending them out.
 
paul1598419 said:
Since this driver is adjustable and if you didn't specify your preference before you bought it, you have no idea what current it is pushing through that diode. You will need a dummy load to test and setup the driver before you use it. DTR will set these for you if you ask, but you have to specify the current. It the pot is all the way to one side it may not have been set to any current. Lazeerer always set these to a default current before sending them out.
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This is what I was looking for. An actual answer to my original question ffs. Thank you man.
 
RedCowboy said:
The notch is facing up.
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Bro... This isn't the m140 like I have said already. And there are 3 notches on that diode. Do you know which notch is facing up? I have it hooked up right, alright? There are no shorts. only the soldering is messy. Do you have an answer to my original question. Guys are like vultures. If I needed help on polarity, I would fkn ask.
 
DTR sets them to the advertised current, if you bought it advertised as 1.8a from DTR then that's where it's set.

Your pic shows the case pin notch facing top and the diodes window facing towards us which puts the polarity backwards. ( M-140 )

Your original question was if you can use 2 x 16340 cells in series, sure as long as they aren't cheap cells and can supply the current without excessive voltage sag, often you can use 2 x 18350 in the host if it accepts 2 x 16340 ( 16mm dia. vs. 18mm dia. and 34mm length vs. 35mm length ), cutoff is around 6.8v IINM

Your original post said you have a M-140 hence my reply.

Vultures...............lol
 
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RedCowboy said:
DTR sets them to the advertised current, if you bought it advertised as 1.8a from DTR then that's where it's set.

Your pic shows the case pin notch facing top and the diodes window facing towards us which puts the polarity backwards. ( M-140 )

Your original question was if you can use 2 x 16340 cells in series, sure as long as they aren't cheap cells and can supply the current without excessive voltage sag, often you can use 2 x 18350 in the host if it accepts 2 x 16340 ( 16mm dia. vs. 18mm dia. and 34mm length vs. 35mm length ), cutoff is around 6.8v IINM

Your original post said you have a M-140 hence my reply.

Vultures...............lol
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Thank you.
 
paul1598419 said:
What? I have only seen one X-Drive that ever had a pot on it. Those were the continuous ground X-Drives. They haven't been available for more than three years. Do you have a photograph or link to what you are calling an X-Drive. All the 1.8 amp drivers I've seen are not adjustable. Even the continuous ground X-Drives never claimed an absolute driver current as they WERE adjustable.
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Hi Paul,
The DTR site has the SXD as a super X Drive thats why there was a little confusion with it being adjustable,
Rich:)
 
RedCowboy said:
DTR sets them to the advertised current, if you bought it advertised as 1.8a from DTR then that's where it's set.

Your pic shows the case pin notch facing top and the diodes window facing towards us which puts the polarity backwards. ( M-140 )

Your original question was if you can use 2 x 16340 cells in series, sure as long as they aren't cheap cells and can supply the current without excessive voltage sag, often you can use 2 x 18350 in the host if it accepts 2 x 16340 ( 16mm dia. vs. 18mm dia. and 34mm length vs. 35mm length ), cutoff is around 6.8v IINM

Your original post said you have a M-140 hence my reply.

Vultures...............lol
Click to expand...

Hi Red,
yes the OP says it was a M140 your correct. And yes it looks like the soldered pin is contacting a resistor.
Rich:)
 
paul1598419 said:
Yeah, if you are firing these up with no module or heat sink on the diode I would expect them to fail. I use the copper modules available from DTR to press my diodes into. You can get cheaper nickel plated brass modules for about $2.00 each from China, but I prefer the copper over these myself. Even then you need it in a heat sink as the module won't carry away heat fast enough from higher power diodes. look at some build threads here to see what is needed.
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Paul you are correct needs a 12mm module
Rich:)
 

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Hi Taylor,
If you get to aggravated the plan has a tendency to become overwhelming . Step back and relax then get back to it, in this hobby rushing is a recipe for disaster and that = $$$$$$$ down the tube. Wish you all the luck building buddy.
Rich:)
 
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