WTB: Green Phlatlight

[Deleted member 16589]

OK guys so I found a blue now I need a green phlatlight PT-121

 

[Deleted member 16589]

Re: WTB: Blue and Green Phlatlight

:bumpit:Bump :bumpit:

 

[icecruncher]

Re: WTB: Blue and Green Phlatlight

There are a couple models - PT-54 and PT-121

Try DTR's site

 

[Deleted member 16589]

Re: WTB: Blue and Green Phlatlight

It does not matter what type and DTR is sold out.

 

[Deleted member 16589]

Re: WTB: Blue and Green Phlatlight

Bump found them on Mouser but dang there pricey CBT-90 Color LEDs - Luminus | Mouser
Anyone have any.

 

[Deleted member 16589]

Bump now looking for a green. I may have to buy on mouser OUCH!.
Im trying to replicate this with phlatlights
http://laserpointerforums.com/f57/additive-color-mixing-67424.html

 

[Alaskan]

How many lumen? Is this it: PT-121-G-C11-MPB ? What projector are they from? Will DTR have more later?

 

[Deleted member 16589]

How many lumen? Is this it: PT-121-G-C11-MPB ? What projector are they from? Will DTR have more later?

IDK of any projectors that use the green. Most use blue to make green.
AFAIK DTR does not stock the green.
These are the model Luminus Devices: PT-121 Color LED

 

[Alaskan]

I'm finding specs which indicate the green can go as high as 4,400-6,000 lumens but then when I search further to check prices, I cannot find any listed for that high of an output, but did find this one over 2000 lumen:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...ha2pyFaduhaHIq667ns/2Hp/AQhDX742%2bf8YtBN0Dg=

Edit: Looking at the foot notes of this datasheet, it appears the maximum output and the recommended outputs are quite a bit different, perhaps this is why I am seeing different numbers. See: http://www.luminus.com/products/Luminus_PT121TE_Datasheet.pdf

http://www.digikey.com/product-deta.../PT-121-G-L11-MPK/PT-121-G-L11-MPK-ND/5186317

I've spent an hour looking for a better price than Mouser and so far, cannot find any better prices, very hard to find anyone else who sells them too.

Why not get one of these instead?

200W green light:

Emitted Color: Green
Wavelength: 520nm~530nm
Brightness: 16000LM~18600LM
DC Forward Voltage (VF): DC30V~36V
DC Forward Current (IF): 6A
Maximum Pulse Voltage: DC36V
Maximum Pulse Current: 6500mA
LED Viewing Angle: 110 degree
Size: 82mm x 82mm x 7mm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200W-High-P...e-Green-White-Warm-White-30-36V-/191210632076

Or this 100w green LED for $12.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-Watt-G...20nm-7000LM-30V-34V-superbright-/160985051825 - -LED-Light-SMD-panel-520nm-7000LM-30V-34V-superbright - Yes, it's much larger and takes a higher voltage but also puts out plenty of light.

.
.

 

[Light superglue]

Hi Alaskan,

I was thinking about buying this:

PT 121 C11 MPB Optoelectronics (Mr_Li)-in EL Products from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

because I have blue PT-121 from DTR and purchased the original Luminus driver for it, but maybe you are right - I would better buy 2 of those 100W LEDs 12USD each and make a 200W spotlight.

I need it to illuminate my lab when working with visible light curing glues - they quickly cure at blue or sun light but may be insensitive to the pure green.

 

[Deleted member 16589]

Hi Alaskan,

I was thinking about buying this:

PT 121 C11 MPB Optoelectronics (Mr_Li)-in EL Products from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

because I have blue PT-121 from DTR and purchased the original Luminus driver for it, but maybe you are right - I would better buy 2 of those 100W LEDs 12USD each and make a 200W spotlight.

I need it to illuminate my lab when working with visible light curing glues - they quickly cure at blue or sun light but may be insensitive to the pure green.

Finally a place that will sell just one But OMG that price.

 

[Alaskan]

Why buy the Phlatlight, do you need such a small emitting surface area? This 50 watt green LED isn't very big and will put out plenty of light: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-30W-50W...D-Chip-Flood-Light-Lamp-DIY-NEW-/131409797177

Although the above is far cheaper, I can fully understand needing as small an emitting surface area as possible when building a flashlight, a smaller emitter area allows a tighter beam and further throw, same as with laser diodes, single mode laser diodes with small emitters have far lower divergence than multimode diodes with their much larger output surface. Due to that, I believe the Phatlight LED probably has the most output for its small output aperture, just that the price is wayyy higher.

Power Consumption：50w
Power Input: DC:30-34V
Color Temperature: Green（Wavelength 520-525nm）
Color Rendering Index: 45-65Ra
Luminous Flux: 3500-4000lm

Homebrew 100 watt flashlight using a LED: https://youtu.be/jaJQ2fo4poU

The 50W one is roughly 2.25 X 2 inches and less than five dollars delivered. I have a concern though, some China sellers show the outputs at different amounts, makes me wonder if some of the numbers are wrong or just inflated. Maybe some units put out less light than others, depending upon the manufacturer? Hmmmmm..... Years ago I was ordering some of these to build a UFO RGB landing area beacon (joke, my friend) and found that a couple sellers appeared to have given inflated output numbers to compete with others.

Phlatlight Info:

Short youtube video showing a green Phlatlight under test: https://youtu.be/FTtCSGxhdrU

Manufacturer Phlatlight specs: http://www.luminus.com/products/color.html

Where to buy: http://www.luminus.com/wheretobuy/index.html

.
.
.

 

[Deleted member 16589]

Why buy the Phlatlight, do you need such a small emitting surface area? This 50 watt green LED isn't very big and will put out plenty of light: 10W 30W 50W 100W Watt Multi Color High Power LED Chip Flood Light Lamp DIY New | eBay

Although the above is far cheaper, I can fully understand needing as small an emitting surface area as possible when building a flashlight, a smaller emitter area allows a tighter beam and further throw, same as with laser diodes, single mode laser diodes with small emitters have far lower divergence than multimode diodes with their much larger output surface. Due to that, I believe the Phatlight LED probably has the most output for its small output aperture, just that the price is wayyy higher.

Power Consumption：50w
Power Input: DC:30-34V
Color Temperature: Green（Wavelength 520-525nm）
Color Rendering Index: 45-65Ra
Luminous Flux: 3500-4000lm

Homebrew 100 watt flashlight using a LED: https://youtu.be/jaJQ2fo4poU

The 50W one is roughly 2.25 X 2 inches and less than five dollars delivered. I have a concern though, some China sellers show the outputs at different amounts, makes me wonder if some of the numbers are wrong or just inflated. Maybe some units put out less light than others, depending upon the manufacturer? Hmmmmm..... Years ago I was ordering some of these to build a UFO RGB landing area beacon (joke, my friend) and found that a couple sellers appeared to have given inflated output numbers to compete with others.

Phatlight Info:

Short youtube video showing a green Phatlight under test: https://youtu.be/FTtCSGxhdrU

Manufacturer Phlatlight specs: Luminus Devices: Color LEDs

Where to buy: Luminus Devices: Where to Buy

.
.
.

I need The Phlatlight ans I need to project a small uniform spot on my wall I had one of those shinese ones you linked me but It was to much of a flood light and I never found a good way of correcting it without loosing most of the light.

 

[Alaskan]

I built a large beacon using eight 100 watt RGB LED's, it was awesome to see the colors I could make using a controller. Lit up the side of a cliff with it running off of my trucks 12 VDC battery/alternator but you are right, they put out a broad beam, even with lenses. I can't seem to find a green Phlatlight at what I consider a reasonable price either, if you ever do, please let me know as I want one too.

 

[Light superglue]

Hi,
So, has anyone bought this green PT-121 from aliexpress at the end?

I have tried to collimate light from a Blue PT-121 (maybe last one DTR had in his shop) with 2 biconconvex lenses next to it and it forms a square 4x6cm spot on the wall 2m away. Maybe with asymmetric lenses big enough a collimated beam or focusing at spot could be reached, I may try later if I once dismantle a PJ which could have such lenses inside in addition to LDs...

Alaskan, I bought each of 100W green leds from 2 sellers you gave ebay ref. in this thread. The cheap one has all elements inside of a yellow resin and at 24V only lets 30mA current to pass. The less cheap one has 100 elements visible like in blue 100W leds and at 24V the current is 600mA!
Does it mean that the last are real green emitters (lower forward voltage) and the first are blue emitters (higher forvard voltage) drowned in phosphor resin?

 

[Alaskan]

The different wattage LED's need different voltages to drive them to full current/light output. Typical for the 100W green is 32 to 36 VDC, but the voltage depends upon how the LED chips are wired inside the unit, or how many of them are in series for each thread of chips tied together. Check with the seller for the correct voltage and expected current draw at the required voltage.

The more LED chips there are in series in each string, the higher the voltage needed for them to work, the fewer chips in a string the lower the voltage required. It makes sense that the LED which has fewer LED chips inside it would pull more current at 24 volts than the higher power output unit which has more LED chips in a string which requires more voltage. 24 volts is probably far too low a voltage to forward bias each of the LED/diodes in the unit which has a lot of chips inside. What happens is the voltage is divided across the string of diodes, if you have 12 diodes in a string (probably series-parallel fed with other strings of diodes inside) and only 24 volts, that would be 2 volts per diode, if the diode requires 2.5 volts to forward bias it enough to produce light, you will have very little current draw at that voltage and little, if any light output.

Take a look at each of the two units you bought and see if you can determine how the diodes are wired together to understand what is going on. 600mA is nothing for a 100 watt LED, it will pull a lot more than that at the correct voltage, likely over 3 amps at 36 VDC, IF that is the high end of its operating voltage. What voltage is it supposed to run at? Different manufacturers might wire the chips inside differently and require lower voltages for the 100W units. I've seen different colored LED chips require different voltages, higher or lower from the others and I know the different colored LED's forward bias at different voltages the same way they do for laser diodes, so be mindful of that. The manufacturers can wire the number of chips in series to make the units run close to the same voltages for different colored outputs, but each chip inside actually runs at a different forward bias voltage due to the number of chips in each series string of them.

See this photo, below, of a 50 watt unit, it has ten diodes in each string paralleled with other strings all being fed by 32 to 36 VDC. This unit supplies 3.2 to 3.6 VDC to each individual LED chip inside for full light output. That's because the chips divide the total voltage across the string by 10, each dropping up to 3.6 VDC if the string is fed with 36 volts.