WTB> cheap driver

[daguin]

Yes, and I have already confirmed without a doubt it has nothing to do with the diode, or ESD. It's the driver. But, to entertain your question, yes I have been discharging the caps.

Just from reading all of your posts in this thread it is obvious that you do not understand the driver nor how to test it. To say that you have "confirmed without a doubt" anything, is suspect.

To start to get upset with and begin to respond with such an attitude to the people who are trying to help you simply because you do not know the answer is both counter-productive and insulting to those trying to help.

I am not going to argue through with you, "why" it is evident that you do not understand. I am just gong to warn you that responding to people like this will leave you standing all alone with your dead diodes.

Peace,
dave

 

[JellyCrab]

I'm not giving attitude >.< Just because I don't throw a smilie face in there yall think I'm yelling. I wasn't yelling at anybody.

 

[rkcstr]

I can tell you the issue with it, it would only work on 'full power' if the + in side pad was also connected to the '3R01' black looking brick component. I'll see if I can get it to you, PM me your details.

Have you contacted me about this? I could have tried to help you with the issue.

As for what you're describing here, if you short the + battery input to the pad for the 3R01 resistor, you're essentially just connecting the battery to the laser diode with the resistor in between. That's likely to push way more current through your diode than it could ever handle.

 

[Lonewolf]

Just from reading all of your posts in this thread it is obvious that you do not understand the driver nor how to test it. To say that you have "confirmed without a doubt" anything, is suspect.

To start to get upset with and begin to respond with such an attitude to the people who are trying to help you simply because you do not know the answer is both counter-productive and insulting to those trying to help.

I am not going to argue through with you, "why" it is evident that you do not understand. I am just gong to warn you that responding to people like this will leave you standing all alone with your dead diodes.

Peace,
dave

Well said :beer:that would make a great, must read

Edit: I meant that, I've seen this happen many times, with others in the past......and not solely directed at the OP.

 

[JellyCrab]

I know about the issue with connecting, and I ouldn't do it permanently, only when I accidently connected them together, I noticed it worked. But not when sepperated. It worked fine for a while, then it started messing up.

 

[daguin]

Have you contacted me about this? I could have tried to help you with the issue.

As for what you're describing here, if you short the + battery input to the pad for the 3R01 resistor, you're essentially just connecting the battery to the laser diode with the resistor in between. That's likely to push way more current through your diode than it could ever handle.

The more I read the more it looks like BS anyway. Why in the world would anyone just randomly start attaching a power lead to points on the driver?

@JellyCrab -- Honesty goes a long way here. BS is detected fairly quickly

Peace,
dave

 

[JellyCrab]

It's not BS. It was accidental because when I had it unatached to the actual kit (just module + driver) I would use a battery pack to test the didoe, rather than doing it with no driver and killing it. BUT It would be dim and then sometimes it'd wortk, I didn't know why, do I figured out that it would ALSO work even if it wasn't connected to the + pad, but just having it connected to the componet would make it laze well. If you honestly believe that I'm lieing, then whatever. Then you're the one lieing, I'm serious.

Here, a pic to show how easy it is to connect the two, and to show the two components:

View attachment the driver.bmp

As you can see, the components are pretty close. The leads comming off my battery pack are a bit wider than the leads connecting to my driver. There's a very high chance to slip a 1/16th of an inch and hit that other component (the black brick in the pic).

PS: I know I'm not in the position to get mad. But don't f'ing call me a liar unless you can back it up. I might not be like everybody else on here who can take somebody calling them a liar. But I get very offended when somebody calls me something I AM NOT.

 

[tarquinthrust]

There are a few drivers on ebay. The ones from china are quite cheap

 

[daguin]

It's not BS. It was accidental because when I had it unatached to the actual kit (just module + driver) I would use a battery pack to test the didoe, rather than doing it with no driver and killing it. BUT It would be dim and then sometimes it'd wortk, I didn't know why, do I figured out that it would ALSO work even if it wasn't connected to the + pad, but just having it connected to the componet would make it laze well. If you honestly believe that I'm lieing, then whatever. Then you're the one lieing, I'm serious.

Here, a pic to show how easy it is to connect the two, and to show the two components:

View attachment 27340

As you can see, the components are pretty close. The leads comming off my battery pack are a bit wider than the leads connecting to my driver. There's a very high chance to slip a 1/16th of an inch and hit that other component (the black brick in the pic).

PS: I know I'm not in the position to get mad. But don't f'ing call me a liar unless you can back it up. I might not be like everybody else on here who can take somebody calling them a liar. But I get very offended when somebody calls me something I AM NOT.

Yelling more and starting to use profanity does NOT make your argument stronger. What you can "take" is of very little concern to me. You have publicly blamed the Rkcstr driver for our own ineptitude. Apparently, you did all this without even contacting Ryan for help with the driver. That is unfair to the reputation of both the driver and to the maker of said driver.

By your own admission in your post, YOU screwed up with your soldering job. Why would you blame the driver?

It is NOT "easy" to slip that distance. I have made a couple of hundred of these. I've never had that problem.

Either admit you are lying or admit that the problem was your fault from the beginning

Peace,
dave

 

[Odic]

I sell a cheapish OEM type bluray driver (£3.90) that is used in a number of the 5-150mW 405nm Chinese lasers.
I happy to send a sample to an established forum member who wants to test it and share the results.
You get the driver, contact spring and 3 sample chip resistors that I have on hand, they can be used individually or stacked.

Cheers
Jon

 

[TTerbo]

Yelling more and starting to use profanity does NOT make your argument stronger. What you can "take" is of very little concern to me. You have publicly blamed the Rkcstr driver for our own ineptitude. Apparently, you did all this without even contacting Ryan for help with the driver. That is unfair to the reputation of both the driver and to the maker of said driver.

By your own admission in your post, YOU screwed up with your soldering job. Why would you blame the driver?
It is NOT "easy" to slip that distance. I have made a couple of hundred of these. I've never had that problem.

Either admit you are lying or admit that the problem was your fault from the beginning

Peace,
dave

That is god dam right. hundreds of people buy and use these drivers and the only person that complains is YOU, you have a record of destroying your builds so i wouldnt blame the driver, Do you want a free refund or something?Take your time with these things. dont rush them. and just admit that you have killed it, save up your money and buy a new one and TAKE YOUR TIME. i M soo tired of you blaming other people for your builds.

@odic. i will sample your driver and review it??

 

[JellyCrab]

I will admit neither because neither are true. Ever look at your hand zoomed up close? Even if you thing you are stuper still, your hand is still shaking. When I have to hold the power down, and shiny metal (metal on metal slips a lot) then it is EXTREMELY possible for it to slip down and hit the other component. There's only a 1/16th (guess) of an inch between to two parts, do you understand that? When I am holding the power there to test the life of the diode, then it is very easy, when it's a wire soldered on there, then no it won't just slip off, I know that. But when I am HOLDING THE POWER ON THERE it is VERY easy to slip and hit the other component, or BOTH the pad and the component, seeing as my positive lead is slightly split, it has the ability to hit both components at the same time. This neither a lie, nor my fault. I'm not blaming Rckstr because accidents happen, also because it was working fine for a good while. I WILL admit that it might have something to do with using it a lot, soldering to it, unsoldering A LOT. But this is NOT a lie, and the more you clame it to be, the more YOU are lieing.

PS: When did I say I did a bad soldering job??? Also, I never balmed ANYBODY, did I say it's anybody's fault? NO! So stop assuming. Assuming is what has put both of you in thew wrong, Daguin ASSUMED I was lie. TTERBO ASSUMED I blame somebody, yet both of you are wrong. STOP ASSUMING!

 

[daguin]

This has turneed into a "Yes you did/No I didn't argument" and others have become involved
It appears that the driver is not to blame.
Members should continue to use the Rkcst with confidence.

Peace,
dave