What's next after REKE500?

[hakzaw1]

^^^- Brooks has consistantly offered great advice. His vids from his shows are awesome.

The REKE 500rgb is/was a good choice- especailly back when they were only 208$ and the shipping was free- most arrrive in need of tweeks or easy fixes like things getting jarred loose by shipping-

Winni is a special person and gets 5 stars so far from almost all who have dealt with her.

ANd since Cherry Lee has been moved to another dept. LM/YL will not be the same.
she too is special and did wonders for her 'leaders', LM/YL and the forums- but as they say... 'no good deed goes unpunished'
We will know very soon if 'jennifer' can match CL.

hak

 

[vk2fro]

I second Winni. I got my projector case from goldenstar.

The only thing I didnt like about the case was the thin baseplate (3mm? cmon!), but I picked up a 10mm thick one to suit for $25 locally.

Home build if your handy with a soldering iron, have a drill press and a tap and die set (or just use nuts and lock washers).

If your not comfortable building, their premade projectors are pretty well regarded on PL. As previously suggested, make sure you get 3 axis mounts for any optics, and DT30's or better. I would also double check that the unit has analog lasers. If you get DT40 Wides, ask that the scan head be placed no more than 20mm back from the aperture. Otherwise those wides will be scanning parts of your show inside the front panel of the projector.

Once you've checked out the projector after it arrives, checked that ILDA works correctly, and gotten sick of the automated internal cards patterns (which should take all of 10 minutes), you might want to remove the automatic show card and its associated power supply.

Its one less thing to become a show stopper should it fail (or its psu). You can then hardwire the scanners and modulation lines to the appropriate pins on the ilda input. At power levels of 1W, a failed show card could be a big liability (i.e. static full power beam setting fire to the drapes ).

 

[tsteele93]

I like where this is going. I CAN solder and even have access to some custom machining. BUT I'd rather my first unit be a package deal. I'd like to buy it, hook up Hak's software/dac and start playing.

If I have a budget of ~$600 what should I get from Winni?

One thing that throws me with these units is that a lot of them seem to be RGV instead of RGB. How does that affect things and what should I watch out for?

The REKE500 sounds great, but I would rather spend a little more if I can get a significant increase in potential.

The REKE's scanners seem to be at the very bottom of speeds.

Also, my current skills would be more suited to changing out and upgrading the LASERS later rather than upgrading scanners later if that makes sense.

Thanks again for all the info!

 

[hakzaw1]

'The REKE's scanners seem to be at the very bottom of speeds.'


There are not TOO bad- listed both as 10K & 15K I run mine at 18K - if you never owned CTs you would like what you see- but These are much slower/cheaper/ jerky and you will not see the smooth and fine animations you would get from better scanners.
I would get w/ winni and see what she can customized for you at $600- to get DT 30K at that price range I would not expect much over 600 mW combined- and yes the V in RGV means Very hard to see.
you want B @ 445-

GL

Len