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what kind of laser is this?
- Thread starter auggie78
- Start date
S
SenKat
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I do not have the link handy myself, but it is a green 8mw laser IIRC - and is a decent little laser 
I have one that I messed up the front end on by trying to remove it 
Someone said you can unscrew the tip of it using a vise, and the module has a pot on it that you can turn to up the power - but I have not tried that. This was one of my fist lasers !
G !
I have one that I messed up the front end on by trying to remove it Someone said you can unscrew the tip of it using a vise, and the module has a pot on it that you can turn to up the power - but I have not tried that. This was one of my fist lasers !G !
D
Deleted member 13229
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warnlaser.com said:
Considering you guys stole a picture of this laser and put it on your website, I'd have hoped you'd at least know what it is.
(Auggie, sorry for polluting your thread, but I'm getting pretty dang tired of these scammers)
pseudonomen137 said:
Considering you guys stole a picture of this laser and put it on your website, I'd have hoped you'd at least know what it is.
(Auggie, sorry for polluting your thread, but I'm getting pretty dang tired of these scammers)[/quote]
sorry guys,maybe it's misunderstand
i have sent to your message.please check.
i,ve found on emule this guide mod.
is correct or it's a joke?
"Take a sewing needle and lift the hard plastic button up. Nothing will break because it is attached to another piece of plastic. *1
• You will see a hard plastic cover with a circle in the upper hand corner. With a light source, look into the hole and you will see a screw. This is the pot. *2
• With tweezers, drop an L shaped piece of electrical wire into the pot. The L shape will allow it to sit in the middle of the pot, while it is curved above and over the plastic cover. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOUR L SHAPED WIRE LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE MY PICTURE. THE WIRE NEEDS TO TOUCH THE OUTSIDE METAL CASING FOR THE MOD TO WORK.*4
• Test the laser out by putting the cover back on, over the piece of wire. Try not to move the wire much because it will dis-position.
• If all goes well, then put a small drop of glue, Elmer’s Glue is preferred because it can be removed if you make a mistake, to reattach the hard plastic button.
• Want to return the laser’s old power? Just take the wire out and its back to its regular self"...
is correct or it's a joke?
"Take a sewing needle and lift the hard plastic button up. Nothing will break because it is attached to another piece of plastic. *1
• You will see a hard plastic cover with a circle in the upper hand corner. With a light source, look into the hole and you will see a screw. This is the pot. *2
• With tweezers, drop an L shaped piece of electrical wire into the pot. The L shape will allow it to sit in the middle of the pot, while it is curved above and over the plastic cover. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOUR L SHAPED WIRE LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE MY PICTURE. THE WIRE NEEDS TO TOUCH THE OUTSIDE METAL CASING FOR THE MOD TO WORK.*4
• Test the laser out by putting the cover back on, over the piece of wire. Try not to move the wire much because it will dis-position.
• If all goes well, then put a small drop of glue, Elmer’s Glue is preferred because it can be removed if you make a mistake, to reattach the hard plastic button.
• Want to return the laser’s old power? Just take the wire out and its back to its regular self"...
S
SenKat
Guest
That sounds like a load of hooey to me. There is a complete tear down and rebuild on one of these pointers on here - I cannot recall who posted it, but it is very infomative !
G !
G !
AJ_Dual
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That's instructions for the old-style CNI pointers that Wicked sold that were pot-moddable back in 2003-2004! The instructions are sort of valid, but not the pointer you're asking about in this thread.
The CNI indeed did have the outer button glued on to a plastic plate underneath inside the pointer body tube with a little dab of tacky glue. And that inner layer of the button had a hole through which you could access the potentiometer screw with a jewlers screwdriver. However, what this is describing with the little L-shaped piece of metal is just directly shorting the pot, and will severely over-drive the IR diode, possibly limiting the diode life, or could over-heat the MCA quickly even if the diode can take it.
It works. But when I pot-modded my old CNI's I PURPOSELY wrapped the screwdriver shaft with a piece of cellophane tape so it wouldn't short the pot as I adjusted it. I don't have a meter, but I think I got my 5mW CNI up to about 20mW with the pot-mod.
Most pointers don't allow simple pot-mods anymore as the US FDA asked the manufacturers to design circuits that were harder to defeat, add photocell feedback loops etc. to the driver circuits.
The CNI indeed did have the outer button glued on to a plastic plate underneath inside the pointer body tube with a little dab of tacky glue. And that inner layer of the button had a hole through which you could access the potentiometer screw with a jewlers screwdriver. However, what this is describing with the little L-shaped piece of metal is just directly shorting the pot, and will severely over-drive the IR diode, possibly limiting the diode life, or could over-heat the MCA quickly even if the diode can take it.
It works. But when I pot-modded my old CNI's I PURPOSELY wrapped the screwdriver shaft with a piece of cellophane tape so it wouldn't short the pot as I adjusted it. I don't have a meter, but I think I got my 5mW CNI up to about 20mW with the pot-mod.
Most pointers don't allow simple pot-mods anymore as the US FDA asked the manufacturers to design circuits that were harder to defeat, add photocell feedback loops etc. to the driver circuits.