what did I do wrong?

[technophiliac]

I just finished my 445nm build, and after turning it on I realized that it didn't work anyways- I have this configured inside helios's new 18650/cr123a hosts. (cool host btw). and I am using a o-like 445nm/405nm driver.

y problem is that the host already has a spring on its rear-clicky for a battery negative but so does my driver, so what I decided to do is to bridge the negative pin to the case pin and solder that to my negative driver lead, then I soldered my positiv too.

I am now left with my battery positive lead and two negative springs, so I decide to solder the battery + to my heatsink/case and just invert the battery for a case positive path.

I think I did this wrong and I need some help to figure out how to hope this baby up

 

[Helios]

I just finished my 445nm build, and after turning it on I realized that it didn't work anyways- I have this configured inside helios's new 18650/cr123a hosts. (cool host btw). and I am using a o-like 445nm/405nm driver.

y problem is that the host already has a spring on its rear-clicky for a battery negative but so does my driver, so what I decided to do is to bridge the negative pin to the case pin and solder that to my negative driver lead, then I soldered my positiv too.

I am now left with my battery positive lead and two negative springs, so I decide to solder the battery + to my heatsink/case and just invert the battery for a case positive path.

I think I did this wrong and I need some help to figure out how to hope this baby up

Do you have a multimeter?

 

[technophiliac]

Do you have a multimeter?

yes, I have tested the battery since you have mentioned that- worked great

 

[Helios]

if you have a multimeter set it to resistance and check between the the ground pin and any exposed unpainted part of the host body (with the battery out) it should read 0.


Did you test the diode/driver setup before installing it in the host?

 

[technophiliac]

yes, I have tested the battery since you have mentioned that- worked great

if you have a multimeter set it to resistance and check between the the ground pin and any exposed unpainted part of the host body (with the battery out) it should read 0.


Did you test the diode/driver setup before installing it in the host?

yes, the all the components work properly, and by ground pin do you mean the - and ground lead? because the diode and driver are already soldered and set

 

[Helios]

hmmm
can you still take the module and driver back out?

Its helpful to test it before you have it in the host because if it doesnt work outside the host it wont work inside the host and you wont know where the problem is. If it doesnt work outside the host than you know the problem is somewhere in your diode/driver setup.

 

[technophiliac]

yes, I am registering that there is no resistance any of my connections, I really do not hope my driver was doa

 

[Helios]

yes, I am registering that there is no resistance any of my connections, I really do not hope my driver was doa

I have never heard of that happening. Many of my builds have not worked until I tinkered with them for a while.

I would take the assembly out of the host and try to get it working that way first. You may need to use a jumper wire to the module to simulate the host body.

 

[technophiliac]

unfortunately I have already tested the module and set it ( in adhesive).....I guess my best bet is to tinker with it....so basically it is just assembled in the heatsink already.

 

[anselm]

... decided to bridge the negative pin to the case pin and solder that to my negative driver lead,

.... I decide to solder the battery + to my heatsink/case and just invert the battery for a case positive path.

Sounds like a short to me. Or maybe I'm confused by your description.

So the driver is a sink, regulates on the negative side of the circuit, right?
And you want the build to be case positive.

Well then you should bridge the case pin of the diode to the ANODE instead of the cathode....

 

[technophiliac]

I feel really dumb right now, Ok so after spending 7 hours+ trying to get this to work I realize that the reason why this is not working is because:

1: while setting the driver in thermal adhesive, the clamp i used accidentally cracked an important part of the driver (I just now noticed)

2: My positive and negative lead were forced together from the length of my wires vs the driver shape, causing a short.

3: and finally the bridge between my negative and case pin was cracked and seperated.

I just clipped the leads, re soldered some longer ones and took a screwdriver to the driver....

 

[rhd]

Unless I'm misunderstanding your description, I think your problem is a more basic one:

"so what I decided to do is to bridge the negative pin to the case pin"
&
"so I decide to solder the battery + to my heatsink/case and just invert the battery for a case positive path"

-> So your case positive (+) is flowing into the negative diode pin, since the diode's negative pin is bridged to the diode's case pin. Reverse polarity.

Is my understanding wrong?

 

[rhd]

I did a case-positive build with a similar generic 445 driver last week.

You can see that it's possible:
YouTube - Example


The key is to take the case pin and run it back to the driver's (+) input, attach (if not already) a battery spring to the driver's (-) input. Then take the driver's (-) and (+) output, and run them back to the diode. No bridging of pins.

 

[benmwv]

I'm pretty sure you understood correctly. I also thought he was saying he connected a (not sure if input or output) negative lead of his driver to the two pins and maybe even a positive driver lead in there too.

y problem is that the host already has a spring on its rear-clicky for a battery negative but so does my driver, so what I decided to do is to bridge the negative pin to the case pin and solder that to my negative driver lead, then I soldered my positiv too.